Picatinny Rail ?

[Hammer]

You have the following rifles...

• Remington 700 short action
• Remington 700 long action
• Savage 10 short action
• Savage 110 long action
• Pre-64 Winchester 70
• Montana 1999
• Weatherby Mark V

Each has a properly fitted mil-spec one-piece Picatinny rail scope mount.

If you have a single scope, e.g., a Nightforce, properly mounted in detachable rings suitable for mounting on a Picatinny rail...

Will the scope mount on each of the above rifles without adjusting the scope rings ?

Realize that the eye relief and scope settings for windage/elevation will be different, but will the scope mount on the Picatinny rail itself ?

 

[chkunz]

Yes, unless this is some sort of a trick question.

 

[Hammer]

No intention of a trick question.

Hoping for a positive, simple answer.

 

[chkunz]

If the mount fits a Picatinney rail then it does not mater where the rail is, it fits the rail. Of course other considerations like the scope bell clearing the barrel still apply. It could be that I do not understand your question and it is not as simple as I am envisioning. We will see what others have to offer.

 

[Auto-X Fil]

Yes, that is the whole point of the system. The spacing is the same. Rails vary in length, so ensure that you don't mount the rings so far apart that they won't fit your shortest rail!

Also; as you noted, the distance from shooter's eye to the first rail slot will vary from gun to gun. Just keep that in mind when mounting.

Due to manufacturing tolerances, it's unlikely that the recoil lugs on both the rings will make solid contact with the front of the picatinny slots on each rail. One ring solidly touching has always been enough for me, but on an 8lb 300WSM you can bet I'd re-torque one ring for firm recoil lug contact on both rings.

Also, rails are not always flat, and neither are receiver tops. Bed the rail and ensure it's flat. I use a straight edge and feeler gauges on the top and sides.

To bed the rail, tighten each end in turn, while leaving the other end loose. One end will float with the other tightened. Bed the rail with JB weld or stock bedding compound, torquing the non-floating end to spec while leaving the floating end completely loose, with screws inserted a couple threads to ensure the holes remain open. I coat the screws in wax to ensure they don't get locked in place.

I actually JB Weld the rail right to the receiver for extra stiffness and strength on my guns; for other people's guns I use release agent on the receiver so that I'm only leaving bedding compound on the rail itself. I also like #8 screws when not glueing the rail down.

 

[M-61]

This is what it should be:

The Picatinny locking slot width is 0.206 in (5.23 mm). The spacing of slot centers is 0.394 in (10.01 mm) and the slot depth is 0.118 in (3.00 mm).

As Auto-X Fil stated above in his 3rd paragraph that is the only real unknown.

 

[284winner]

Consider that if the ring spacing is based on a long action and that particular scope tube is a long tube, the ring spacing may be too far apart to fit a SA pic rail. I did have that issue before.