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Parting Tool 101

boltfluter said:
Most high speed blades are horrible a set-up. They grab, squeal, and chatter. Basically everything except cut! I have a very nice Iscar holder for reversible carbide inserts. I can easily part off a 1" piece of barrel steel in 30 seconds or less. Carbide likes rpm's and pressure!. For me anywhere from 300 to 900 rpm's and a descent feed works like a champ. This tool just does not grab, and it makes parting off a non event. The key is that the insert is bolted in place and does not move. Period. Still on the same box of inserts I purchased 20 yrs ago when I purchased the holder. You just can't kill these inserts, as God knows I have tried! I can get a part number if anyone is interested.
Paul
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I'd like a part number, at least to look and learn.
 
boltfluter said:
Most high speed blades are horrible a set-up. They grab, squeal, and chatter. Basically everything except cut! I have a very nice Iscar holder for reversible carbide inserts. I can easily part off a 1" piece of barrel steel in 30 seconds or less. Carbide likes rpm's and pressure!. For me anywhere from 300 to 900 rpm's and a descent feed works like a champ. This tool just does not grab, and it makes parting off a non event. The key is that the insert is bolted in place and does not move. Period. Still on the same box of inserts I purchased 20 yrs ago when I purchased the holder. You just can't kill these inserts, as God knows I have tried! I can get a part number if anyone is interested.
Paul
Click to expand...
I would like info also.
Thanks!
 
Alex Wheeler said:
I dont use mush hss because its slow. But for parting its fast enough for me since I dont do much. Make sure its sharpened properly and on center, keep oil on the part either with flood or an oily acid brush. I part at 260 rpm and .002" or .003" on the feed. Does a very nice job.
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I think this is a good point to underline. It's daunting but start trying power feed.

Like Jackie said there is a SFM window that these things work in. I did trials and think I'm sitting at 25% what is recommended but it still works well. For bigger diameters I'll run 2 speeds.
 
Iscar 1.6mm parting blade

Blade P/N TGFH 19-1.6
Insert P/N TAG N1.6C

Note that this blade will do 1.25" diameter. If you need to do more then you'll need to step up in blade width.
 
I will add this to Aaron’s Blondi Hacks, Mr Pete and Jo Pi have help me a bunch on parting, you tube is your friend.
I can’t ever seem to get my set up correct so the clean up is not on the part.
I have tried about every way I have seen with no good end results.
 
Using Alex's speeds and feeds, it will take about a minute to part off a barrel blank. I do this to save the stamped barrel end. Some keys to setup: keep the part short, as close to the chuck as you can. Keep the blade short, only as long as needed for the job at hand. Cut barrels to length in a saw, then crown them. The taper on barrels does not give a solid setup. Coolant or oil, lots of it. Power feed, it will maintain a constant tool pressure. HSS blades have been used for years. If you can't setup a HSS blade to work properly you are asking for trouble trying to use carbide.
 
X Count said:
Yeah if your talking 10 min it's doing a lot of rubbing / work hardening.

With carbide, depending on the diameter, I'm running about 250-350rpm and using power feed at about .001 from memory. Frees up a hand to apply cutting oil.
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WAY to slow! go at least 750 rpm with carbide.
 
10XSHOOTER said:
WAY to slow! go at least 750 rpm with carbide.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. . . . What insert, what material, what diameter? Are you using the same as me on the same machine? Doubt it.

We hear this all the time. Carbide NEEDS to be run FAST!!!!!! You can't do gunsmithing unless your using HSS!!!

That's all BS. With modern carbide inserts and coatings you can find things that work well at slower speeds and feeds. Everyone should do their own testing with their own machine and find what works for them.
 
Thanks to all participants I did learn quite a bit, of which I am greatful. I learned more from the salesperson "David" at Travers tool. He gave me great info on checking install of blade before use, to scroll with micrometer across blade for .002" or less runout. Also to set on or below center no more than .002". I got the "retrofit" style blade since I am on an AXA machine with 10" swing. Blade, inserts are Iscar and removal tool simple design. David has been a machinist 43 years, and has an e-mail address I plan on using for further questions in the future.

My order list
19-500-354
19-526-260
55-540-846
 
That's great they were able to help you for a small order. Insert tooling is one of mans many great mysteries. It can be a real pain to figure out what's compatible with what, and what part numbers to look for.
 
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