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Parallax Adjuster Not Working Right

Have an older Weaver Nitrite made in Japan scope 6-20x with the parallax adjustment in the objective bell. Turn it all the way to infinity and it is still fuzzy at 200 yards. This scope lives in the safe, so it has not been dropped etc. Anybody got an idea what is wrong and is there a DIY fix? Not sure if Weaver will service it, haven't called them. YET

Bill
 
HUH???? 200 yards is infinity? The eyepiece is to sharpen the crosshairs to your eyeball. Look at the sky through your scope. Is the crosshair sharp? If not, adjust the diopter. Do not stare at the crosshairs and adjust. Keep looking at the sky (or other neutral background) and readjust. Keep doing this until crosshairs are sharp. Then go with the parallax adjustment. Note that the numbers on the objective for parallax are ballpark and not exact. Aside from that, eliminating 100% of parallax isn't going to happen.

More info on the main site
http://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/parallax-in-rifle-scopes/

and here.

http://www.accuracy-tech.com/ocular-lens-focus-and-parallax-adjustment/
 
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Have an older Weaver Nitrite made in Japan scope 6-20x with the parallax adjustment in the objective bell. Turn it all the way to infinity and it is still fuzzy at 200 yards. This scope lives in the safe, so it has not been dropped etc. Anybody got an idea what is wrong and is there a DIY fix? Not sure if Weaver will service it, haven't called them. YET

Bill
What you have is an adjustable objective. This the simplest and best method to adjust the focus of the objective as presented to your eye. The eyepiece focus is for adjusting the picture of the reticle to your eye. You should do as instructed above for the reticle.

Once you have that, you play with the AO to get as clear a picture of the objective as possible. What you are trying to do here is to have the picture of the objective (target) focused on the same plane as the reticle.

It is possible that the best image of the objective is not when you have the best picture of the reticle but that's not common.
 
Thanks for the replies. The ocular is adjustable, so I turned it till the cross hairs were in sharp focus. Nice crisp crosshairs. Went to 200 yard target and adjusted the objective till everything was in sharp focus. Little pointer was at 500 yds. Went to 300 yard target and tried to adjust for sharp focus, there was not enough adjustment! The objective lens will not turn far enough, Pointer was at infinity ~.

At 200 and the pointer at 500, the parallax was correct as near as I could tell by moving around behind the scope. The crosshairs remained in the same place on the target as I moved my head.

There is a tiny screw on the objective bell and and I wonder if it is a stop of some kind?
 
Thanks for the replies. The ocular is adjustable, so I turned it till the cross hairs were in sharp focus. Nice crisp crosshairs. Went to 200 yard target and adjusted the objective till everything was in sharp focus. Little pointer was at 500 yds. Went to 300 yard target and tried to adjust for sharp focus, there was not enough adjustment! The objective lens will not turn far enough, Pointer was at infinity ~.

At 200 and the pointer at 500, the parallax was correct as near as I could tell by moving around behind the scope. The crosshairs remained in the same place on the target as I moved my head.

There is a tiny screw on the objective bell and and I wonder if it is a stop of some kind?

Would not loosen or remove the screw. Eye issues can create problems with parallax settings. Do you wear corrective lenses while shooting?
 
Yes, I wear corrective lens. However, I have a dozen scopes from very cheap to very expensive and this is the only one giving me trouble. Looks like it is getting a ride to Weaver.

Bill
 
Parallel isn't a focus adjustment, the eyepiece is used to adjust focus.
You do need to go back an forth between ocular and objective . They work in unison , change one it changes the other .
Always has been will always be . Forgot the laws governing
 
Thanks for the replies. The ocular is adjustable, so I turned it till the cross hairs were in sharp focus. Nice crisp crosshairs. Went to 200 yard target and adjusted the objective till everything was in sharp focus. Little pointer was at 500 yds. Went to 300 yard target and tried to adjust for sharp focus, there was not enough adjustment! The objective lens will not turn far enough, Pointer was at infinity ~.

At 200 and the pointer at 500, the parallax was correct as near as I could tell by moving around behind the scope. The crosshairs remained in the same place on the target as I moved my head.

There is a tiny screw on the objective bell and and I wonder if it is a stop of some kind?
Just make sure the objective numbers are in yds not feet . Not that I've seen any that way !
 
Ok. We're going to start an argument here.

The AO and the "diopter adjustment" are NOT supposed to be touched at that same time; they DO NOT WORK IN UNISON, if that means that you have to adjust both at the same time to get a clear picture.

You should set the "diopter adjustment" in the ocular until you get a clear crisp view of the reticle every time you look through the scope. Then you lock it down. It should only change as your eyes change or if you go between wearing glasses and going commando on the eyes.

The AO is what is used to focus the objective picture on the same plane as the reticle. If you're messing around with the reticle focus, how in the heck will you ever get a nice clear picture of the objective on the same plane as you see the reticle in sharp focus. If you move the reticle focus around, you lose the reticle focus.

The distances engraved on the AO are what we call "a guideline," meaning they are wrong and you should not depend on them to be precise. Just ignore the engraved distances and play with the AO until you get a nice in-focus picture of the objective, regardless of the distance engraved on the objective bell. If you cannot focus the objective properly by twisting the AO, you have a defective scope. Do not waste time playing with the ocular focus.
 
Yes, I wear corrective lens. However, I have a dozen scopes from very cheap to very expensive and this is the only one giving me trouble. Looks like it is getting a ride to Weaver.

Bill
Good move. Let us know if they fix it or just send it back saying it checked out OK.
 
Will be calling them today to get a return number. Hogpatrol, On this scope I have to adjust the ocular to see just one crosshair, then I don't have enough adjustment in the objective to focus much over 200 yards. This is supposed to be a pretty good scope, I was told these old Japanese Nitrite were the same as the Super Slam.

Bill
 
Will be calling them today to get a return number. Hogpatrol, On this scope I have to adjust the ocular to see just one crosshair, then I don't have enough adjustment in the objective to focus much over 200 yards. This is supposed to be a pretty good scope, I was told these old Japanese Nitrite were the same as the Super Slam.

Bill

My memory is a little sketchy but wasn't there a closeout sale on them a few years back? If so, I bought one. It went to Hog's Bargain Bin. It'll be interesting to see if it gets fixed or replaced with something newer.
 
Will be calling them today to get a return number. Hogpatrol, On this scope I have to adjust the ocular to see just one crosshair, then I don't have enough adjustment in the objective to focus much over 200 yards. This is supposed to be a pretty good scope, I was told these old Japanese Nitrite were the same as the Super Slam.

Bill
Good luck. If you are not the original owner, you may get a "sorry". I found this out the hard way.
 
This is one of the first Nitrex, it has to be 20+ years old. I remember the Natchez sale, I think they were Chinese made. I have a return number from Weaver and will send as soon as I fine the right sized box. Going to put a little mark on it to see if I get it or a new one back.

Bill
 

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