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Panda/Robertson bedding

AlNyhus

Silver $$ Contributor
Finished the mill work on this Robertson stock yesterday. This morning it was time for the pillars:
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Greg Taylor's 3D printed Panda pattern receiver was a big help! :)
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The loading port, ejector port, bolt release and bolt handle notch still need to be done. Not sure if I'll do those before or after the bedding is done.
 
Tried someting new with the rear pillar and wasn't overly jazzed with it. Couldn't get past it, so 'zing-zing' went the end mill. Made a new pillar and it's setting up now.
 
Basically, here's the approach. These pillars are just used as examples...not cut to length, grooved, etc.
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The sleeve goes in the pillar:
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A spacer is used between the top of the pillars and the action. The pillars are attached, coated with epoxy and the action is lowered into the stock. After the epoxy has set up, the action is removed and the final bedding takes place. :
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For the final bedding, the flanged sleeves are glued into the pillars from below. Long 1/4" guide pins are installed in the action screw holes and the guide pins pilot precisely into the sleeves. When the bedding is done, the sleeves are removed and the action screws are perfectly centered in the pillars with .031 clearance all around the action screws. No stress, no muss, no fuss.
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Some other stocks and actions but same/same approach:
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When you're at this step:

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What is the action resting on? You've presumably got a gap in there for the mud
 
I’ve got to ask because I’ve noticed over the years you have a reason for doing everything (that’s a compliment), why do you glue the inserts in the pillars?

Since you shared the insert trick I’ve used it on every bedding I’ve done since, the no screw up alignment has been perfect and quite frankly, it’s genius. I haven’t glued them because it’s almost a press fit and some of them I can reuse if i can get them out without tearing them up.

Another thing I’ve started doing is I pull the tape and clean up when it’s still wet, seems to be easier to clean up and because notoriously I end up getting mud under the tape at the port curves. I‘ve also started using a huge zip tie versus the rubber strap. Still experimenting with that too though. So far it’s been fine but I have to resist the urge to ape on the zip tie. ;)
 
When you're at this step:

View attachment 1447725

What is the action resting on? You've presumably got a gap in there for the mud
If you look down the barrel, you'll see the tape wrapped around the barrel. This is the balance point of the barreled action. Supporting it at that point allows the action to rest in the compound at its natural 'neutral' position. There are no 'hard stops' for the action to come down against....it just floats in the compound. Obviously, we want the long axis of the stock as perfectly level as possible. In the pic here, the bedding had already set up.

It's just my opinion, but I feel that supporting the barrel/action at the balance point is critical. When the balance point is past the front of the fore end, I use a screw jack with a half round insert on top to support it at the balance point.

Another good thing to use at the balance point is an 'O' ring rolled down the barrel to the proper spot. Dave Tooley gave me that tip and it's pretty slick. :)

Certainly not the only way to do this...just my way. -Al
 
That's about as free float as you can get! - The one stock I've fully done, I tape wrapped the barrel in two spots to locate the action where I wanted it. Seemed to work. But I like the balancing act as well.
 
why do you glue the inserts in the pillars?
I do it so when placing the action into the stock with the guide studs in place you don’t have to worry about pushing the bushings out of the pillar. You’re juggling enough as it is so one less thing to go wrong and chase in the middle of the job.

I used to use brass tubing but Al’s bushing’s are easier. :)
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....... why do you glue the inserts in the pillars?
I want the barrelled action to go into the bedding compound in one fluid motion....no herky jerky stuff. ;) Gluing the sleeves in the pillars removes one more thing that can get in the way of that. A couple drops of non-gel Super Glue is all it takes. For some reason, the gel type Super Glue doesn't work well for this. When the bedding is done, a drill bit will twist the sleeves right out. At 59 cents each, I'll take the hit ;)

I use long 1/4-28 bolts, cut the heads off and put a tapered leading edge on them to help them ease their way into the sleeves. You want the guide pins to be all shank...any threads on the pins should be completely in the action so you don't get bedding compound around exposed threads. This way, you can more easily unscrew the the pins when the bedding is cured.....or lightly tap on the pins to free the action up. Any threads in the bedding will take a chunk out.

Again...just my approach. -Al
 
Nicely done’ I would like to do work like this but unfortunately I lack the skills.
 
Nicely done’ I would like to do work like this but unfortunately I lack the skills.
Thanks. Honestly, anyone with good basic skills and hand tools can do this. The harder thing is having a handle on what we're try to accomplish. Once you have that solid foundation, the way forward to achieve that pretty much paints it's own road map.

Again...there's multiple ways to get very good bedding done.
 
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After you first install the pillars, how do you get the white spacers, that were on top of the pillars , out?
 

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