The additional parameters make sense Dusty.
TAJ4, are you going to that RF sporter match coming up?
If you want, you can judge how a few of my rifles are set up.
I “stone” my trigger’s internal bearing surfaces by hand on a surface plate until all visible striations are oriented perpendicular to the break. I am at about 3,000 grit, and that’s plenty, because if you mate them too closely, the opposing metal gets grabby, and you can’t keep any grease in between to stop it.
I don’t change the angles, I just make the trigger movement in “takeup” or “roll” virtually imperceptible.
I want the trigger to then break extremely sharply with no grit, catch, or warning.
When it breaks, I no longer care about the trigger, as it’s done it’s job, I just don’t want it to slam into the backstop of an overtravel screw and generate movement.
As such, NONE of my triggers except the 41 are setup with a short overtravel. Not one. That’s 10m air pistols, Anschutz silo, hunting Jewells, and yes, my Service Rifle. 100 grams through 5 lbs, Single, Two stage, and set triggers.
The biggest variance I have between my triggers is sear engagement. I don’t set field rifles really light, nor really short on engagement. I’ve proven to myself what I can do with a nearly 5 lb, extremely slow locktime Geissele, and I know I cannot shoot 1/4 minute in the woods, nor are those rifles capable, so why push limits? The best and most used .243 is a carefully maintained HVR at 3 lbs, with “some” roll, and the overtravel screw is just there to keep dust out.
Target single stages are set pretty fine on engagement, but I still have a little roll...it just doesn’t give your finger much feedback that it is, in fact, moving.
As I’ve pursued precision offhand, my thoughts on triggers have changed, and those trigger changes have helped all the rest of my shooting as well.
Then again, so does air pistol.
