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Opening up barrel channel

Hi everyone, just looking for some input on a potential project.

There’s a nice looking Sako 75 with a Hart 6ppc barrel and walnut spotter stock that I’m thinking of purchasing and turning into a 308 hunting rifle.

I have a shilen #7 barrel that would be re profiled and I’m wondering how heavy I can keep the barrel without it looking funny in a sporter stock.


Thanks,
Tyler
 
Well, the old standard has been, if You can get a dollar bill between the stock and barrel, Your good to go. But wood moves. I have a friend who had a couple of beautiful Cooper Rifles that shot different every time He took them out of the safe. The barrel fit in the stock channel was so precise, when that beautiful walnut moved against the barrel, it caused the obvious problems. I have no use for a “ LOOKER” that won’t shoot. I open those barrel channels up. Form Follows Function :)

Obviously, Just My Arrogant Opinion ;)
 
Thanks for the replies, might just have to wait for a varmint model to come along.
It’s rare to see a blued Sako 75 in Canada, most are stainless.
 
Well, the old standard has been, if You can get a dollar bill between the stock and barrel, Your good to go...;)

With a free-floated barrel and a wooden stock, TEN bills clearance is probably more correct. With sporter barrels, the amount of barrel whip on firing makes definite clearance essential. And in hunting guns used with tensioned bipods, even more is desirable.
 
With a free-floated barrel and a wooden stock, TEN bills clearance is probably more correct. With sporter barrels, the amount of barrel whip on firing makes definite clearance essential. And in hunting guns used with tensioned bipods, even more is desirable.
We are in agreement, the more the better in my book.
 
There’s a nice looking Sako 75 with a Hart 6ppc barrel and walnut spotter stock that I’m thinking of purchasing and turning into a 308 hunting rifle.

Will this bolt pull the .473 rim AND the PPC? If not, well...

Assuming (I know it's wrong to assume) that the stock is worth the effort, I have always used clear 2-part epoxy to seal the barrel channel, under the recoil pad and in the magazine area in order to curtail the movement from moisture in fine wood stocks. Clients expect this when the stock alone can cost several thousand dollars.

You can attempt a large amount of clearance but wood moves when subjected to moisture and not just in the barrel channel. Keep the rifle indoors then take it out hunting, see what happens.

Enjoy!

:)
 
In a Sako sporter stock, a #3 Shilen would be as heavy as I would try. #4 Douglas would be OK. Either one would be a fairly porky 308. If I was to build a 308 hunting rifle for myself, on that action, I would go lighter than that. WH
 
Will this bolt pull the .473 rim AND the PPC? If not, well...

Assuming (I know it's wrong to assume) that the stock is worth the effort, I have always used clear 2-part epoxy to seal the barrel channel, under the recoil pad and in the magazine area in order to curtail the movement from moisture in fine wood stocks. Clients expect this when the stock alone can cost several thousand dollars.

You can attempt a large amount of clearance but wood moves when subjected to moisture and not just in the barrel channel. Keep the rifle indoors then take it out hunting, see what happens.

Enjoy!

:)
Thanks for the reply. Rifle has since sold so that makes my decision easy.
As far as I could tell Sako didn’t chamber the 75 in 6ppc, so I was assuming it must have been from a 308, 243, or 22-250.
 

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