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One Way Brushes

there are advocates for one way and 2 way, just like I think the 222m is superior to the 223. look at the 204 and the AI223

chamber to muzzle is the better in my opinion, fwiw. not everyone has or can afford a bore scope, and some who own them don't know what to look for, as posted above.

crowns can look good but be bad, I do not believe you can get the crud out of the chamber/lug area, trigger etc. consistently with the two way use.
not a problem with the one way push

Bob
 
The opinions on cleaning routines varies from one shooter to the next. Just do what your gun tells you and what you feel is the right way.
 
i suspect a bronze brush is the only way to get the really "baked on" carbon deposit from the bore. i'v used a product that puts down a very thin coat of ceramic that's greatly reduced the time spent getting this carbon out but unfortunately the formula was changed and the newest offering is not effective. i, too, remove the bronze brush and repeat 3-5 times, then patch/solvent and one can often see fine lines of carbon streaks representing the land/groove junction...8 dark lines representing the 4 lands of my kreigers. a dark, wide streak, (4), represents the 4 grooves. if you push this bronze brush away between your index and thumb, stop and attempt to pull back, it will stop as the brissles have been pushed rearward and become fixed. if this brush is pulled rearward in a barrel, i can't help but believe there will be a problem. i am guilty of pulling and pushing a nylon brush with solvent and can tell something is happening...is this a no no?
 
lpreddick said:
... if you push this bronze brush away between your index and thumb, stop and attempt to pull back, it will stop as the brissles have been pushed rearward and become fixed. if this brush is pulled rearward in a barrel, i can't help but believe there will be a problem. i am guilty of pulling and pushing a nylon brush with solvent and can tell something is happening...is this a no no?

Not a good idea to try and pull a brush back through until it's fully cleared the muzzle just because of what you described.
Re. the nylon brush question - "is this a no no?" depends on who you ask. But, IMO, if you're going to push/pull the brush through the bore (chamber excluded), regardless of what it's made of, it shouldn't be reversed until is cleared the muzzle.
 
The bristles on bronze brushes are very pliable, and MUCH softer than the barrel steel. I brush both directions.

I don't use nylon, due to it's abrasive makeup.
 
Cooper recommends using nylon brushes for their barrels. So when my new rifle came in April I thought I'd give it a try. I bought a 3 pack of Pro Shot Nylon brushes in 22 cal. I got the impression that they are undersized because the resistance that I felt was slight.

I followed up my normal routine using the nylon by re-wetting the barrel with Butch's Bore Shine and running 5 passes with a bronze brush wet with Butch's. The first patch came out black as pitch. No more Nylon for me...

Does anyone have success with Nylon?
Mike
 
What does a nylon brush do when pushed, or pulled, through a barrel? The bristles lay down in the direction of travel. Meaning, they ride over the top of the grooves doing NOTHING. Bronze stays fairly straight, removing the copper that has been deposited in those grooves. Nylon is also very abrasive. Look at the grooves cut into the stainless steel guides on a fishing rod when the line travels through them :o Take a look at the gouges on the hulls of boats caused by that nylon line rubbing against them when your fish decides to go under the boat.
 
I have never seen a short range benchrest shooter take off a brush at the muzzle. Barrels wear, including crowns, and it is a good idea to refresh the latter from time to time.

Some time back, someone published some very high magnification pictures of the edges of barrel crowns that supposedly showed wear from brushes being pulled back into the barrel. The problem that I had with those pictures was that the what they showed extended past the reach of a brush, so they must have been caused by something else. My guess is unburned particles at the moment when the heel of the bullet cleared the crown.

A friend of mine, who is a top level service rifle gunsmith, once showed me something on a high round M1A barrel. HE dry brushed the barrel a little to remove most of the powder fouling from its last shooting session, so that the slight haze of jacket fouling was visible, at the muzzle. Your could see a very short segment of the bore, just behind the crown, where the copper wash had stopped. He told me that this indicated a slight enlargement from wear, caused by hot gasses and unburned powder blowing by bullets BTs just after the bullet shank cleared the bore. When he saw that, he would shorten the barrel a quarter inch and recrown it.

As far as brushing and hard carbon goes, if a brush took it out, it was ordinary powder fouling. Hard carbon requires careful use of abrasives, and may or may not be a problem depending on the powder and perhaps the cartridge.

I believe in using the least aggressive cleaning regimen that gets the job done without too many rod strokes. I also believe that most shooters have no idea what is in there bores, because they lack, or do not have access to a bore scope. Without that, we are all just guessing.

One common mistake is to think that because a patch comes out white, that the barrel is clean. Real, baked in, hard carbon will show a white patch, after everything else has been cleaned out of the barrel. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen someone chasing his tail on accuracy issues only to find out, upon inspection with a bore scope, that his barrel was not clean.

Fellows think that they are saving their barrels by cleaning ineffectively, but the number of rounds that I have seen them shoot trying to reclaim accuracy by tuning, when the problem was carbon, put a lot more wear on their barrels than proper cleaning would have...a lot., and cost them a lot of gasoline, time and components as well.

I am extremely careful with abrasives, and use them as little as I can get away with, but sometimes they are a necessity. One exception has been 133 in my PPCs. It can be kept up with with bronze brushing, patches and solvent. There may be others that I have not tried.
 

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