Old Leupold adjustments

[Adam in WI]

Anyone have an idea of how much the old marks on a Leupold scope represent? Is it half moa and each number represents a full minute, or is it something else?

 

[mike a]

Anyone have an idea of how much the old marks on a Leupold scope represent? Is it half moa and each number represents a full minute, or is it something else?View attachment 1208445

Shoot it, dial it, shoot it. You’ll have your answer. I’ll bet 1/2 Mia clicks

 

[okie]

IIRC they dont click---just friction. check and see. I think the numbers are full MOA

 

[Adam in WI]

Kinda what I figured, I just didn't know if Leupold ever had any official information on it.

 

[BoydAllen]

One little tip. Those adjustments may not be very responsive. They may not immediately move your point of impact after they are made. If you start out so that you are well above and to the right of your desired POI, and work in carefully, you can save yourself some frustration. If you overshoot your mark, back off a MOA or so and come back at it adjusting clockwise.

 

[biggun2869]

They're probably as good as has been

One little tip. Those adjustments may not be very responsive. They may not immediately move your point of impact after they are made. If you start out so that you are well above and to the right of your desired POI, and work in carefully, you can save yourself some frustration. If you overshoot your mark, back off a MOA or so and come back at it adjusting clockwise.

I just kind of assume you were there

 

[Brians356]

IIRC they dont click---just friction. check and see. I think the numbers are full MOA

1 MOA, can't really indicate anything else.
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[Idaho-45]

I'm pretty sure the numbers represent 1 MOA, each mark = 1/2 moa.... I've still got a couple older Leupolds with those friction adjustments. Those scopes aren't used anymore..... And, yes, if I remember correctly, you have to really work at getting them right where you want them to shoot... Ha Ha........

 

[RegionRat]

Yup. The whole numbers were supposed to be minutes.

Be gentle with those older scopes, especially if they have been sitting still for many years.

You may want to really bed the rig down on a bench and run a Box Test on grid paper just to loosen it up inside before you commit to a setting. I have seen them get very sticky near where they were sitting too long and have even seen ones that stick so bad they won't preload the internal tube and then they rattle.

I would very gently run the scope to the extents and then zero the runout in a vee-block before I mounted it just to make sure it doesn't hang up. You can detect this easier in the unmounted condition in your hands than you can after mounting.

Edit to add: once you have your setting, you should be able to force that split scale to set the zero on the tick mark. The open slot can be pushed around to align the dial zero with the tick mark on the drive screw.