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O K SO DO I HAVE TO EAT CROW ?

Always steered away from annealing for several reasons. Some just a hitch but I had never tried it at all. Always used Lapua brass but now using Peterson and trying to lower my E S for my new Custom Build 6BRX from Zack (ODCR) but seemed like unless I changed powders it was not happening. Groups were fantastic @ 100 yds. So my shooting buddy, SVT_Tactical had recently started annealing mostly out of curiosity I think, and we were discussing it over at his mancave yesterday when he said bring over a few pieces and let's see if it helps. I carried 20 pcs. over and he worked his magic. Brought it home and loaded it up and "wa la" cut the E S in half on the first group. Down from @ 20 to 12 E S just like that. Needless to say I carried over the remainder of the brass this morning to get it fixed too. SO, I guess my question is now do I have to eat crow?
baked,brioled, or fried, after you eat it would you inform us how it tastes lol
 
Just my opinion here nothing scientific but believe annealing brings all the necks to the same level of hardness. A few years back when I moved my .260 Remington cases all got mixed together. Some had 3 firings since the last anneal some had none . They shot like crap until I annealed a batch of them using a Anealeeze. I now anneal after every firing using a AMP. For what it is worth the Anealeeze did just as good as the AMP, just slower and works much better on short cases such as the 6BR and Grendel family

Now I know a metals hardness has nothing to do with it's elasticity which occurs at the atomic level because of the attraction between protons and electrons but having the neck metal at the same hardness sure seems to help
 
Always steered away from annealing for several reasons. Some just a hitch but I had never tried it at all. Always used Lapua brass but now using Peterson and trying to lower my E S for my new Custom Build 6BRX from Zack (ODCR) but seemed like unless I changed powders it was not happening. Groups were fantastic @ 100 yds. So my shooting buddy, SVT_Tactical had recently started annealing mostly out of curiosity I think, and we were discussing it over at his mancave yesterday when he said bring over a few pieces and let's see if it helps. I carried 20 pcs. over and he worked his magic. Brought it home and loaded it up and "wa la" cut the E S in half on the first group. Down from @ 20 to 12 E S just like that. Needless to say I carried over the remainder of the brass this morning to get it fixed too. SO, I guess my question is now do I have to eat crow?
My annealer is critical in me reloading process to maintain neck tension.

When I bought it, my precision increased significantly.
 
How much are your groups reduced? I'd have to see a significant decrease in group size to justify that much money. I dont care what the es and sd's are if the groups are tight. I also dont care about case life as it is not a problem now.
Honestly, I only shot the one 5-shot group after annealing just to check the numbers but before annealing the groups were hanging around the 1/4 inch mark but this group is at .171.

Well, with the unit SVT_Tactical has built the cost is fairly minimal as opposed to the AMP.
 

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But what about the target Bill?

Erik says believe the target, not the ES. ;)
I think that statement would be far more applicable to load development than merely bringing brass back to specs through annealing. In this case, one should believe the target when one's load is faltering on paper whereby the load had worked previously - though many won't put a chrono on the load and attempt to isolate the problem.
 
I think that statement would be far more applicable to load development than merely bringing brass back to specs through annealing. In this case, one should believe the target when one's load is faltering on paper whereby the load had worked previously - though many won't put a chrono on the load and attempt to isolate the problem.
Actually Erik won't even bother with groups until he sees acceptable E S on the chrono. His format for load development is Combustion - powder & charge, primer, brass - then Harmonics - seat depth & tuner and last B C - bullet performance down range. So yes he does say believe the target BUT only after he has worked up the load to satisfy.
 
Actually Erik won't even bother with groups until he sees acceptable E S on the chrono. His format for load development is Combustion - powder & charge, primer, brass - then Harmonics - seat depth & tuner and last B C - bullet performance down range. So yes he does say believe the target BUT only after he has worked up the load to satisfy.

I only shoot 1/2 to 3/4 MOA out to 500 yards. Watching Eric and Kieths channels gave me A TON of information. They are shooting rifles much farther with much more precision so some of their process is picking fly poop out of the pepper, the big strokes though (resting brass in the die for consistency, annealing) cut numbers and group sizes dramatically and saved money in components to get to satisfactory loads. FWIW, I bought an Ugly Annealer, cheap and very effective. I wouldn't spend the money on an Amp unless you are trying to get that 'nth out of a load/rifle. :) (photo is 6CM, only 5 shot group, numbers would probably double at 20 or so shots but you get the idea)

 

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I only shoot 1/2 to 3/4 MOA out to 500 yards. Watching Eric and Kieths channels gave me A TON of information. They are shooting rifles much farther with much more precision so some of their process is picking fly poop out of the pepper, the big strokes though (resting brass in the die for consistency, annealing) cut numbers and group sizes dramatically and saved money in components to get to satisfactory loads. FWIW, I bought an Ugly Annealer, cheap and very effective. I wouldn't spend the money on an Amp unless you are trying to get that 'nth out of a load/rifle. :) (photo is 6CM, only 5 shot group, numbers would probably double at 20 or so shots but you get the idea)

Nice work no doubt.
 
Always steered away from annealing for several reasons. Some just a hitch but I had never tried it at all. Always used Lapua brass but now using Peterson and trying to lower my E S for my new Custom Build 6BRX from Zack (ODCR) but seemed like unless I changed powders it was not happening. Groups were fantastic @ 100 yds. So my shooting buddy, SVT_Tactical had recently started annealing mostly out of curiosity I think, and we were discussing it over at his mancave yesterday when he said bring over a few pieces and let's see if it helps. I carried 20 pcs. over and he worked his magic. Brought it home and loaded it up and "wa la" cut the E S in half on the first group. Down from @ 20 to 12 E S just like that. Needless to say I carried over the remainder of the brass this morning to get it fixed too. SO, I guess my question is now do I have to eat crow?
Yes 100%!….. but if you need ketchup to get it down I won’t make fun of ya lol
Wayne
 

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