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Novice Questions--6BR

Hey guys, I've done some shooting in the past (almost only with my .223 at 100 yards, with great accuracy) but I have a 6BR coming this week and have a few questions..

When everyone talks about the "lands" what does this mean?


I also hear about people talking about their brass being "turned" what does this mean?


I've ordered the Redding bushing neck sizer die and the forstner competition bullet seater, assuming some of you use these dies, do you like them? anything I need to know about them?

I want to thank anyone in advance for helping me out, I'm trying to learn this all on my own, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ethan
 
Ethan,
It appears that you are somewhat new to precision shooting. There are numerous books that will answer your questions in detail. I would highly recommend you invest in a couple of them. The $.01 answer is that re a bullet touching or off of the lands, it is referencing the start of the rifling of the barrel and the distance of the bullet (at its thickest point, ogive) in relationship to same. As to turned brass, that references the neck wall thickness of the brass, after it has been run through a neck turner or "mini-lathe", which may have a final wall thickness of .0085, .012, .014, or what ever is needed. You typically will not choose a random number to turn to, but rather it is dictated by the chamber of your rifle. This is done to have consistent neck tension and release of the bullet. Turning is also done for some small diameter chambers so that the loaded round will fit into the chamber of the rifle, which it would not do unless turned. Your choice of dies are both excellent ones. You will hear from many posters that so and so model or brand is the best. At your level of experience, you will find your die choices more than adequate. I have found that it is more advantageous learning to use what you have efficiently, rather than joining the "equipment race".

What area are you in? I was raised there many years ago, Vienna, Chester, Belleville, Mt Vernon areas I am familiar with. Great area to shot in.
 
I would also order a bore guide for your cleaning rod and a Headspace Gauge to check shoulder bump. I use a Hornady Headspace Gauge Kit.{don't want to hear about it Cat Shooter] Not a lot of money and you'll want it.
 
What kind of rifle is it? Does it have a no turn neck chamber and until you can answer this do not shoot the gun. If it is a chamber slightly tighter like a .269 chamber and you were able to chamber a round for some reason it could damage the gun and you could get hurt. Just a thought as safety is paramount to everything in the shooting world. Welcome to the forum and everyone will be willing to answer your questions. One other note is to get a few manuals as stated earlier by Jim and a good starter manual is the lyman manual #49. Sinclair has a selection of advanced reloading manuals.
 
I appreciate the response, the rifle is a Savage Model 12 LRPV with a 1:8 twist.

So as far as the full length sizer goes, what order would I need to go about those? run thru the full length sizer then thru the neck sizer?


Jim, I live just south of Macomb, my girlfriend is originally from the Mt. Vernon area though.
 
I have looked at some full length sizer dies, the forstner is cheaper than the redding, but should I have the redding full length sizer to go with the neck sizer die? or can I go with the little cheaper forstner?
 
Jim suggested you by a reloading book/manual....LISTEN TO HIM. In the front they explain chapter by chapter BEGINNING steps to reloading. Lyman,Sierra and Hornady ect. all make manuals to get started. Don't put the cart in front of the horse....walk before you run. In my earlier post I made several suggestions...you also need some sort of case lube. Hornady One Shot Case Lube is a good start.And NO YOU DON'T FULL LENGTH SIZE AND THEN NECK SIZE....PLEASE READ THIS IS ALOT OF FUN...BE SAFE!!!! THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS!!!
 
Good information here as well

http://www.6mmbr.com/6mmbr.html

and here

http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/6mmbr-loading-for-newbies/
 
in lieu of a full length sizer, a body die can be used when the cases get hard to chamber. that would be much less expensive than a FL die. Or, you could return the neck die before you use it and get a FL die to begin with.
 
Ethan,
You have gotten some pretty good advice to get you started. There are some very knowledgeable people on this forum. You are quite a bit north of where I was, your area used to be soy bean and corn fields. Stay warm, be safe, and enjoy your new rifle.
Jim
 
Ethan,
You are getting yourself a very nice rifle to start out with. As to which die to buy, regardless of the brand, Forster or Redding (which is what I use for FL sizing), when you buy an FL Die, do yourself a favor from the git go and buy an "S" FL Die so you can change the bushing inside to accommodate the NECK TENSION you seek for better and controllable bullet release. By that I mean most people will say that best accuracy comes about with a .002 Neck Tension (or less). And that is so whether you "turn your necks" or use No Turn Brass, such as made by Lapua in the Blue Box. And I gotta believe that with that new Savage you are buying, No Turn Lapua is what you would want and then there is no need to "Turn the necks" on the brass. Even my new custom Kreiger barrel on my Savage Model 12 Benchrest works very nicely with the Lapua Blue Box No Turn 6mm Norma brass. Just load then and shoot. Having a "Neck Die" does save on the life of the brass. But if you are an "accuracy freak", FL resizing is the way to go because the only thing a Neck Sizing Die touches is the neck. Some folks only Neck Size, some only Full Size. Only you can make that final decision as to which way you are going to go. Good luck no matter which road you decide to travel on.

Alex
 
For a 6mmBR Norma, get a full-length neck bushing die.

Harrells will make one that is a close fit to your chamber -- send it a case fired twice in your chamber.

Whidden will make a beautifully finished one with a user-friendly adjuster.

I like seating bullets with a Wilson hand die and an arborr.

Re the Savage 6BR -- some of these are great, some of them have so-so barrels. Save up your pennies for a replacement. With a good barrel your Savage can be competitive in 600-yard benchrest.
 
welscher663 said:
Hey guys, I've done some shooting in the past (almost only with my .223 at 100 yards, with great accuracy) but I have a 6BR coming this week and have a few questions..

When everyone talks about the "lands" what does this mean?


I also hear about people talking about their brass being "turned" what does this mean?


I've ordered the Redding bushing neck sizer die and the forstner competition bullet seater, assuming some of you use these dies, do you like them? anything I need to know about them?

I want to thank anyone in advance for helping me out, I'm trying to learn this all on my own, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ethan
That 6br LRPV is the best Savage makes, If I read your post correct you have a Redding FL S type coming. With A factory chamber you won't have to turn your brass necks, thats a good thing, you already have a lot on your plate . The 8 twist barrel will shoot 105 gr bullets excellent( for long range 300yds+). Thats what I would use for serious match shooting. For just getting some range practice you can shoot 80gr bullets (excellent for 100-200 yds)or what ever is on sale. Lots of friends and info here, ask and we will help.
I suspect you will get bit by the Bug. (do a lot of shooting with that gun). DON"T make the mistake most of us have done and buy things you don't need, or buy cheap reloading gear and supplies only to to it right the second time.
 
noload said:
.........For just getting some range practice you can shoot 80gr bullets (excellent for 100-200 yds)or what ever is on sale.

Might I suggest you try some Bart's or Berger 68 gr FB's. They shoot in the low 1's & 2's (sometimes even below 1's) at 100-200 yds in my Savage Model 12 Bencherst. Just for your consideration.

Alex
 
old_dood said:
in lieu of a full length sizer, a body die can be used when the cases get hard to chamber. that would be much less expensive than a FL die. Or, you could return the neck die before you use it and get a FL die to begin with.

I agree regarding the body die. I use a Redding body die when I need to resize the body and bump the shoulder. Then I use a bushing neck size die to size the neck to the exact tension I want.

My 6br has a no-turn chamber. I bet the Savage is the same. If that is the case, you won't need to turn the necks of your brass. I suggest Lapua brass as it is extremely high precision.

Gene Pool
 
old_dood said:
in lieu of a full length sizer, a body die can be used when the cases get hard to chamber. that would be much less expensive than a FL die. Or, you could return the neck die before you use it and get a FL die to begin with.
+1
If you can return the neck die and get a FL bushing die. A die that will resize the full length of the brass but also has changeable bushings for the neck tension. The Forum Boss made an excellent suggestion in a Harrels FL bushing die.
http://harrellsprec.com/index.php/categories/reloading-dies
 
Thanks for all of the great information, I've got the gun broken in and have been trying to work up a load for it, I've got a few to play around with. First testing at 100 yds. went okay with a few groups right around 1/4 in. going to try Eric Cortinas "long range load development at 100 yds" thing here soon.

Will keep you posted on how it goes in the next little while.

Thanks, Ethan
 

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