Nosler rifle support.

[Toddmack]

Short and sweet. I need a phone number (that might be returned) to talk to a Nosler rep about removing the barrel from a Nosler M48 action.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

Why do you need to talk to nosler? Its threaded. Basically a howa action.

 

[Toddmack]

Why do you need to talk to nosler? Its threaded. Basically a howa action.

I'm no gunsmith, I use 24" and 36" pipe wrenches.
The gunsmith that is trying to remove the barrel has had problems with this one. He's called Nosler with questions for the last week or two, with no callbacks.
That's why I am asking here.

 

[ELR LVR]

I'm no gunsmith, I use 24" and 36" pipe wrenches.
The gunsmith that is trying to remove the barrel has had problems with this one. He's called Nosler with questions for the last week or two, with no callbacks.
That's why I am asking here.

Some stubborn gunsmiths "THINK" you dont need heat
Some say just use a bigger cheater bar
I say that puts more stress on the action though
it sounds as though your Smith is trying to be careful and err on the side of caution before twisting up your action, which is a good sign.
---
If its anything like a Rem 700, with loctite equiv to green 620 he needs to get it at least 500F
last I removed something like that similar
my temp gun read 650F and the mechanism came loose without too much trouble
---
You might ask him if he is familiar with using a propane torch to get a Rem 700 loose
---
Shop press and oak blocks to hold the action, or his barrel vise clamped between a shop press
then heat, presoaking the threads with ATF and dribble ATF in the threads as it heats and it should soak in like solder
then use maybe a 3 foot cheater bar
I've watched vids of guys using even a 6 foot cheater bar for old military actions but again
I would not want to stress an action with whatever torque is developed from 6 ft of pipe
the propane heat expands things and helps it come loose on top of softening the loctite
keep in mind heat does not make the loctite disappear or render it useless, only softens it
Last Rem 700 I removed a barrel, it budged at first and then the loctite resolidified as soon it got a little bit cool, and I dislocated my shoulder putting all my might into it, so tell him he may have to reapply heat if he gets it to at least crack off
---
if that don't work then yeah, Nosler may be the only last avenue
or machine a groove cut in the barrel just in front of the tenon about .010", then it'll come off

 

[ronsatspokane]

I find that a solid cheater bar and a BFH solve the issue. Some need a sharp blow to knock them loose.

 

[Doug Beach]

Good barrel vise, outside action wrench, hammer.

 

[ebb]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WRIGHTM...igital-Display-Dual-Airflow-WDH7DCE/337762648 I don't know of this brand but something like this could be used to heat the threads that may have been epoxied from the factory.

 

[nmkid]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WRIGHTM...igital-Display-Dual-Airflow-WDH7DCE/337762648 I don't know of this brand but something like this could be used to heat the threads that may have been epoxied from the factory.

Would that thing actually supply enough heat?

 

[ebb]

I am reading that most epoxy softens at 350 degrees. The specs on the site don't give a max heat, but the old one I have owned for many years claims 750. I have a heater box that is 12X12X48 that I use to cure KG gun coat and it will heat the entire box to 300. Well, thats what the BBG grill thermometer says.

 

[timeout]

Would that thing actually supply enough heat?

It says 1202 degrees Fahrenheit on the high position.

 

[Toddmack]

Some stubborn gunsmiths "THINK" you dont need heat
Some say just use a bigger cheater bar
I say that puts more stress on the action though
it sounds as though your Smith is trying to be careful and err on the side of caution before twisting up your action, which is a good sign.
---
If its anything like a Rem 700, with loctite equiv to green 620 he needs to get it at least 500F
last I removed something like that similar
my temp gun read 650F and the mechanism came loose without too much trouble
---
You might ask him if he is familiar with using a propane torch to get a Rem 700 loose
---
Shop press and oak blocks to hold the action, or his barrel vise clamped between a shop press
then heat, presoaking the threads with ATF and dribble ATF in the threads as it heats and it should soak in like solder
then use maybe a 3 foot cheater bar
I've watched vids of guys using even a 6 foot cheater bar for old military actions but again
I would not want to stress an action with whatever torque is developed from 6 ft of pipe
the propane heat expands things and helps it come loose on top of softening the loctite
keep in mind heat does not make the loctite disappear or render it useless, only softens it
Last Rem 700 I removed a barrel, it budged at first and then the loctite resolidified as soon it got a little bit cool, and I dislocated my shoulder putting all my might into it, so tell him he may have to reapply heat if he gets it to at least crack off
---
if that don't work then yeah, Nosler may be the only last avenue
or machine a groove cut in the barrel just in front of the tenon about .010", then it'll come off

He's definitely trying to be careful. The conversation went this way.
GS- I've heated it up and even broken my 40 yr old oak barrel blocks (whatever the terminology is). I'm at my wits end, but I don't want to put pipe wrench jaw marks on it like some oilfield idiot.
Me- Tom, I guess you didn't realize that I am an oilfield idiot.
I think he probably just needs more heat and a bigger hammer. It's OK, I'm in no hurry.
Thank you all for the input.

 

[ELR LVR]

He's definitely trying to be careful. The conversation went this way.
GS- I've heated it up and even broken my 40 yr old oak barrel blocks (whatever the terminology is). I'm at my wits end, but I don't want to put pipe wrench jaw marks on it like some oilfield idiot.
Me- Tom, I guess you didn't realize that I am an oilfield idiot.
I think he probably just needs more heat and a bigger hammer. It's OK, I'm in no hurry.
Thank you all for the input.

That's Gold hahahaha
I use a 10 lb Rubber mallet sometimes and give every thing a good smacking around the permiter can also help
Sounds like he has tried everything right though, I think it needs impact, the threads may have wringed together (cold welded) if they had no type of lube when assembled
it is hard to do but can be done if a guy knows what he is doing with a torch
get the outside hot and leave the inside colder
the outside threaded part will expand and allow clearance between the threads
Similar to removing a press fit,

 

[slm9s]

My $12 amazon heat gun was enough to do the trick on a particularly stubborn 700 last year.

 

[243Lapua]

I've loosened classic Remington barreled actions with heat from a propane torch to heat the action and a good smack on the wrench handle will usually take it apart. Remington used to use a stubborn white epoxy that would bond both parts together to much that I would need to really tighten down on the barrel vise.

 

[ELR LVR]

I've loosened classic Remington barreled actions with heat from a propane torch to heat the action and a good smack on the wrench handle will usually take it apart. Remington used to use a stubborn white epoxy that would bond both parts together to much that I would need to really tighten down on the barrel vise.

Yes, a white epoxy of some sort rather than loctite is a better description

 

[ISS]

issues like this (lack of factory response) are why I've pretty much gone to custom builds.
Perhaps telling them their attitude is now reflected here.

It is a bit surprising how quickly it's turned into a Remington 700 bashing fest...