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Non standard 280ai won't bump shoulder

I have a 280ai that was headspaced to be .004 shorter than the now standard saami standard. I can shoot Nosler 280ai brass out of it and it tight on the first firing and fire forms to the chamber well. However since it's .004 shorter than my saami standard redding die I can't get the shoulders to bump back. Can I take off a couple thousandths off the top of the shel holder to fix this?
 
Yes you can have a few thousandths taken off. Be careful not to take too much off the shell holder because the shellholder will be too weak to pull the case from the sizing die and break with the case left in the die.
 
You might be able to take enough off of the bottom of the die to screw the die down farther as long as it doesn't mess with the taper at the bottom, I don't know for sure just a thought.
 
jsthntn247 said:
Can I take off a couple thousandths off the top of the shel holder to fix this?

It is easy - take some #400 or #600 grit silicone carbide "Wet or dry" paper and put it on a flat surface... oil it with a light oil.

Measure the total height on the shell holder for reference, and then use figure "8" motions to lap down the top of the shell holder.

You CANNOT make too thin so it will break - it is just not possible (in one lifetime). ;)
 
No need to trim the brass any extra - Case length is case length... no matter where the shoulder is.
 
.004-.005 off the shell holder is nothing, that is within most mfg spec.

Catshooter is right, use the paper, oild and fig 8

Bob
 
Hi 247,hi all

Just like Catshooter said,you can't go too far,you'll get sick of it all well before that...But you can start with 240 grit on a piece of glass oiled with WD40,and finish with 400 and 600 grit,I did it a while back to use a 280 FL die as body die for 270win brass that is shorter at the neck shoulder junction,it's a bit tedious but works fine in the end.Cheer up,you'll make it all right.Good luck to you.
 
When sizing a case in a die with the die screwed down to the shell holder the reloader has the die adjusted to restore the case to minimum length, this method/technique is also referred to as being full length sizing. Some reloaders choose to grind the top of the shell holder and or bottom of the die, it works for them but it is not necessary.

I form cases for short chambers, I form cases that are shorter from the datum/shoulder to the head of the case .012" shorter than minimum length/full length sized.

All that is required is a feeler gage, place the feeler gage between the deck of the shell holder and case head when sizing.

As to your question, if you can manage the feeler gage you can determine the exact amount of material to be removed. I have an in-line, angle/butt cutter for making pilots, guides and head space gages, keeping the top of the shell holder square is not a problem.

F. Guffey
 
CatShooter said:
No need to trim the brass any extra - Case length is case length... no matter where the shoulder is.

Not quite true. I have a M1917 with .016" added between the shoulder of the chamber and bolt face. When trimming formed 280 Remington cases I add .014" to the length of the case.

SAAMI says" There are two three lengths, one is from the shoulder/datum to the case head, another is from the datum/shoulder to the case mouth and the other is from the case mouth to the case head.

F. Guffey
 
jsthntn247

Each brand of case, how many times it was fired and annealing will effect the spring back of the cases shoulder. Therefore there is no perfect shell holder height using a feeler gauge. You will need to take a smidgen more off the top of the shell holder to be able to compensate for all brands of brass and annealing.

You can always raise the die adjustment instead of lapping the die again a second or third time for harder brass with more spring back. Give yourself a little wiggle room for shoulder bump adjustment with your lapped shellholder. ;)
 
fguffey said:
Not quite true. I have a M1917 with .016" added between the shoulder of the chamber and bolt face. When trimming formed 280 Remington cases I add .014" to the length of the case.

SAAMI says" There are two three lengths, one is from the shoulder/datum to the case head, another is from the datum/shoulder to the case mouth and the other is from the case mouth to the case head.

F. Guffey

1. The SAAMI has nothing to do with the military chamber on the M1917 Enfield rifle. (or any military rifle) The Military 30-06 chamber is larger in diameter and longer in headspace than SAAMI "guidlines".

2. All SAAMI dimensions are from the bolt face to the datum point and the base of the case to the datum point. Please show me the "datum/shoulder to the case mouth" dimentions in the SAAMI drawing below. ::)

3. And what does 2.494 -.020 mean about case length below. :o

4. What does GO and NO-GO gauges have to do with shoulder location. ???

4. Buy a WFT case trimmer and tell me what your case lengths are. ;)

SAAMI30-06_zpsebb7fa34.jpg
 
savagedasher said:
Just cut the bottom of the die. Or if you have as savage make the head space longer.
Larry

I tried to with a bastard file with 0 luck. Stuff is bookoo hard, haha. Getting some sandpaper this afternoon for the shell holder.
 
Brad,
Make sure that you etch/engrave the modified shell holder for the 280AI dies at hand for that specific rifle/chambering.
 
I hope you meant that you got .0015" bump. Otherwise you should have been able to get a .009" without modification.

Catshooter......when did trim length EVER get measured from the shoulder to the mouth? Trim length is from the base to the mouth, so if the chamber is .010" short then you need to trim .010" short. If you start jamming that mouth of the case into the end of the chamber (which is essentially a PERMANENT crimp) then someone is probably gonna lose any eye if not their whole head.
 

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