• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Nightforce Benchrest Question for FTR

I recently starting shooting FTR and I am using a Burris XTRii 8-40. I like it and its been a fine optic but I am wondering if there would be an advantage to going to a Nightforce Benchrest 12-42 as I have not been able to look through one.

I am considering selling my XTRii although there is nothing wrong with. Just curious of opinions. Thanks in advance
 
Sure. The Burris is a decent mid price optic, generally less than suitable for competition. The NF is better in every respect, hence the price.
Remember, looking through the scope is nice......does'nt tell you much.
The main reason you buy the better scope, the single most important function of any scope, it's unerring ability to hold POI .
 
The BR is a great scope; personally I love the front AO. The downsides are that it doesn't have a very big range of adjustment (~45 moa) so for F/TR you will most likely want a 30 moa rail, and possibly the Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts to compensate further for windage or elevation. The other 'odd' bit is that the turrets are 6 moa per revolution. Probably the only time that really matters is if you happen to go from one gun to another you have to pay attention to which scope has which adjustments.

All in all, I have two 12-42x BRs, a 12-42x NXS hybrid and three 15-55x Competition scopes. The later models all have specific features that make them a positive step forward compared to the BRs. It may just be sentimentality, but I still like the BRs with the 2DD reticle best.
 
In my opinion if you are just starting out then keep the Burris and spend your money on reloading components. Shoot every match you possibly can within a reasonable driving distance and work on becoming a better shooter.
 
I agree, use your money to shoot and learn. Later you may want to try a Nightforce, but if you are holding off rather than clicking for wind then your Burris should be good for a LONG while.
 
The downsides are that it doesn't have a very big range of adjustment (~45 moa) so for F/TR you will most likely want a 30 moa rail, and possibly the Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts to compensate further for windage or elevation.

The 12-42 only has 40MOA of elevation. I'd definitely plan on a 30 MOA rail

The other 'odd' bit is that the turrets are 6 moa per revolution. Probably the only time that really matters is if you happen to go from one gun to another you have to pay attention to which scope has which adjustments.

Monte, my experience with 6 MOA per rev kept me from getting the Comp with 5 MOA when it came out in 2013. At Camp Perry and later at Raton I have come back to the line a full turn off on my windage. Easier to do than you think when you've had 7 or 8 minutes on and you forget to zero the windage when you come off of the lie. It do make it tricky to get back on target some days, esp in a 2 sighter match :eek:
 
...I have come back to the line a full turn off on my windage. Easier to do than you think when you've had 7 or 8 minutes on and you forget to zero the windage when you come off of the lie. It do make it tricky to get back on target some days, esp in a 2 sighter match :eek:


Been there more times than I care to admit to... I'm mostly 'trained' these days to automatically zero the windage knob after the last shot... mostly :confused:
 
Yes, yes they do. When you come to the line, fire your first shot and it goes wide... even off paper... remembering which revolution you're on suddenly becomes not as simple as it seems while sitting a keyboard. How many lines were showing? Which side of center was I on at the end of the *last* relay, with switching head winds? Nowadays, I make it simple: I keep a small notebook in my shooting kit, and sketch a visual of both turrets, clearly showing which lines are visible when the knob(s) are at zero/zero. If I have any doubt as to whether I'm on zero or not, a quick check against the sketch answers the question.
 
Yes, yes they do. When you come to the line, fire your first shot and it goes wide... even off paper... remembering which revolution you're on suddenly becomes not as simple as it seems while sitting a keyboard. How many lines were showing? Which side of center was I on at the end of the *last* relay, with switching head winds? Nowadays, I make it simple: I keep a small notebook in my shooting kit, and sketch a visual of both turrets, clearly showing which lines are visible when the knob(s) are at zero/zero. If I have any doubt as to whether I'm on zero or not, a quick check against the sketch answers the question.

If you are using a Comp or NXS, it's pretty easy to zero out your turrets at the bottom of their adjustment and then just use them like a micrometer from there. It's a lot easier to remember that your windage zero is "30.5" showing. You come off the line and your knob is showing "37" now, you know where to go back to without reference. March is a little more painful because it just has colored lines, but it still works.

Because I swap a single scope between rifles, I've done it both ways, "remembering" where my center is and setting it up like a micrometer, and the latter has been far easier and less mistake prone.

BTW, the OP: you've gotten some good advice from some good shooters. Unless you think your glass is holding you back at this point, there are better things to invest in. A newer/better scope won't buy you points unless you think it's not holding zero or the adjustments are off.
 
thanks for all of the responses. The optic is not holding me back at this point as I am new to F Class. Looks like I need to spend my money elsewhere. thanks everyone
 
Yes, yes they do. When you come to the line, fire your first shot and it goes wide... even off paper... remembering which revolution you're on suddenly becomes not as simple as it seems while sitting a keyboard. How many lines were showing? Which side of center was I on at the end of the *last* relay, with switching head winds? Nowadays, I make it simple: I keep a small notebook in my shooting kit, and sketch a visual of both turrets, clearly showing which lines are visible when the knob(s) are at zero/zero. If I have any doubt as to whether I'm on zero or not, a quick check against the sketch answers the question.
this is why i use a march tactical with 1/4 moa turrets. its got 25 moa per turn and is clearly marked up to R12 & L12. have not yet exceeded 12 minutes, but looking forward to it:p
 
this is why i use a march tactical with 1/4 moa turrets. its got 25 moa per turn and is clearly marked up to R12 & L12. have not yet exceeded 12 minutes, but looking forward to it:p

When in Bisley in '09, we came across some custom windage knobs made by a fellow (John Knight, I believe) that fit on an NXS w/ 1/4 moa clicks, and had two rows of markings: 0-9L and 9-0R. I immediately bought a set and put them on my 12-42 NXS. A year or two later... guess what became an option on the NXS? ;) Nowadays, the Competition scopes come with two sets of windage knobs: 0-5-0 (apparently for those who live where there is no wind or shoot F-Open with a magnum) and ones marked as above, 0-9L and 9-0R. Guess which ones are on my scopes ;)
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
168,094
Messages
2,248,025
Members
81,033
Latest member
Paul641
Back
Top