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NF moar vs moart

I have both, and really prefer the MOAR-T, but that is for long range steel plate shooting in the middle of the day.

the T model has clear, precise, fine lines, with intuitive hold over marks, and easy measurement.

Check this out:

 
I own 2 5.5-25x56 MOAR-T scopes (with a 7-35x56 on the way) and will agree with the previous responses. As a general rule, for target shooting go wih the MOAR-T. If your doing Tactical/field/hunting go with the MOAR reticle.
 
the guys i was shooting long range with were shooting t, so i sold my moar, and bought a t.
never looked back. i actually made money on the deal. rigth place at the right time.
 
When in SD on a prairie dog hunt, I was using my 6BR with a NF NXS 8-32 with a MOAR reticle. I found that at longer ranges (>800 yards) the vertical crosshair would cover a standing dog. Was very frustrating so when I returned home, I sent the scope to NF to change the reticle to a MOAR T. I have purchased 2 other NF scopes since with MOAR T reticles. Haven't looked back.
 
I thought this may be helpful, I just happened to do this the other day while looking into some different scopes. Across the top is the scope or reticle and then the power for the dimensions listed below. Scopes with only one column are FFP. The first row of numbers is the center of the reticle expressed in MOA at the listed magnification power. The second row of numbers is the line thickness expressed in MOA at the listed magnification power. The rest of the rows are the line thickness expressed in inches at the listed magnification power and at a distance found on the left side.

I thought this was a good way to see how much of the target at various ranges would be covered by the reticle.

You will need to enlarge the picture. I also have the file I can send.

Let me know if you have any questions.


Scope Reticles Chart.jpg
 
I thought this may be helpful, I just happened to do this the other day while looking into some different scopes. Across the top is the scope or reticle and then the power for the dimensions listed below. Scopes with only one column are FFP. The first row of numbers is the center of the reticle expressed in MOA at the listed magnification power. The second row of numbers is the line thickness expressed in MOA at the listed magnification power. The rest of the rows are the line thickness expressed in inches at the listed magnification power and at a distance found on the left side.

I thought this was a good way to see how much of the target at various ranges would be covered by the reticle.

You will need to enlarge the picture. I also have the file I can send.

Let me know if you have any questions.


View attachment 1306197
 
Interesting and useful. Looks like the MOART is about half the thickness of the MOAR. The MOAR F2 looks similar to the MOAR F1. This the way you see it?
I am 84 with some visual loss and wonder if the MOAR might be better for me since I shoot a max of 1200 and seem to do best using 15 -25x. Your opinion?
Bill
 
Interesting and useful. Looks like the MOART is about half the thickness of the MOAR. The MOAR F2 looks similar to the MOAR F1. This the way you see it?
I am 84 with some visual loss and wonder if the MOAR might be better for me since I shoot a max of 1200 and seem to do best using 15 -25x. Your opinion?
Bill
I would say that is relatively true. I think the FFP will be a little thicker at the top end and small at the low end. I think it depends what powers you will be using. With the SFP scope the higher powers will be better. The reticle will not overpower the image like on lower powers. I now shoot FFP - my eyes really seem to like the reticle and the target to grow in the same fashion. With SFP scopes I almost always shoot on max power. The picture looks the best to me at max power.
 
I use mine for field matches with centerfire and rimfire. Targets at various distances in one string of fire make the ffp very useful.
 
I use a NF NXS 5.5x22x56mm with the MOAR-T. Great reticle, however when shooting LR league matches in Ohio on heavy overcast AM’s it’s tough to see the ‘X’ at 1,000 yards. Usually removing sun shade extensions fixes that up right away. As I age I may either use a scope with a 34mm main tube or go to a MOAR. ‘Cause you can’t always count on the sunshine here.
 
I hunt with ATACR 5x25x56 with a 34 mm tube and it has a MOAR-T reticle. In low light or shooting in the dark brush or early/late evening hunts I just turn on the Illumination to low and no issues seeing the reticle.
 
Last edited:
I hunt with ATACR 5x25x56 with a 34 mm tube and it has a MOAR-T reticle. In low light or shooting in the dark brush or early/late evening hunts I just turn on the Illumination to low and no issues seeing the reticle.
Thank you, that was very helpful.
 

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