NF Competition reticle choices?

[jlow]

Looking to purchase one of these and was wondering about the reticle choice. I see they have CTR-2, CTR-3, DDR-2 and FCR-1 reticles. This scope will be use to shoot F-TR matches, so which one?

So CTR-2 and 3 are basically the same uncluttered reticle with CTR-2 with a 0.95 MOA dot and the CTR-3 without a dot. This I can understand for a clear picture.

DDR-2 has multiple hold over points and a 0.095 MOA dot, since this is not a tactical scope where one use hold over for different distance targets, how is that used?

The FCR-1 reticle is even more of mystery to me since it really only have 10 MOA holdover at 40x, pretty small number if one is shooting 600 to 1000 yards.

Educate me...

 

[CJ6]

The FCR-1 reticle is even more of mystery to me since it really only have 10 MOA holdover at 40x, pretty small number if one is shooting 600 to 1000 yards.

Educate me...

That 10 MOA is @ 100 yds which = 100 MOA @ 1000. How much hold over do you need.

 

[jlow]

That 10 MOA is @ 100 yds which = 100 MOA @ 1000. How much hold over do you need.

I think you have mistaken MOA for inches. The 10 MOA on the scope is the same at 100 or 1000 yards, MOA does not change when distance changes, just the number of inches it represents. So at 100 yards, 10 MOA = 10x1.047" = 10.47". At 1000 yards, 10 MOA=10*10*1.047=104.7" but it is still 10 MOA. And no, if I was shooting 1000 yards with a riifle sighted in at 100 yards, I am going to need a lot more than 10 MOA to hold for a hit. For example, at 600 yards, my .308 will need almost 17MOA hold, and at 1k, it will need 43 MOA hold.

 

[Lbart]

Jlow,
To me it looks like you are new to F-Class shooting. In FC few if any good shooters hold over for elevation. They click up or down using the adjustment knobs. I use the FRC-1 reticle but do not use the hash marks for anything. I use only the center crosshair intersection. Less confusion that way. For wind correction I normally hold off using the target lines as a reference.

 

[CJ6]

ARGH..I'm bad at explaining stuff...If you zero @ 100 and add 1 click of elev. however much (value) it moves at 100 it would be 10 times that at 1000 correct? Yes MOA is MOA at any distance,and if zeroed at the top of the reticle @ 100 it would give you an additional 4 MOA.

 

[jlow]

Lbart – yes I am new to F-class but if you look at my OP, you will see that I don’t think people do holds for F-class, that actually is the question i.e. what are they use for if you don’t do holds for elevation. Holds for wind I can see.

CJ6 – we don’t disagree but my question still stands, what would you use the DDR-2/FCR-1 elevation marks for in F-class….

 

[dskogman]

I use the FCR reticle for F open. I like no dot and a very fine crosshairs. The hash marks are 1 MOA at 40x and are useful for shooting steel or sighting in but I don't use them in F class. Dial in elevation and use the target rings for wind holds.

 

[jlow]

I use the FCR reticle for F open. I like no dot and a very fine crosshairs. The hash marks are 1 MOA at 40x and are useful for shooting steel or sighting in but I don't use them in F class. Dial in elevation and use the target rings for wind holds.

Thanks dskogman - that's what it sounds like. The FCR seems good for wind holds and I too like the very fine crosshairs - looks like this is the one - thanks!

 

[CJ6]

I have the 12x42 BR in 2DD and click it.

 

[dcali]

You use the FCR-1 to dial in your spotters. It's easier than figuring it out from the target rings.

 

[jlow]

You use the FCR-1 to dial in your spotters. It's easier than figuring it out from the target rings.

OK, now that makes perfect sense!

 

[Lbart]

Lbart – yes I am new to F-class but if you look at my OP, you will see that I don’t think people do holds for F-class, that actually is the question i.e. what are they use for if you don’t do holds for elevation. Holds for wind I can see.

jlow,
FWIW, I use the FCR-1 since I used NF BR models w/ the NPR-2 reticle for 15 years of FC high level competition. When I changed to the Competition model it was natural to use the FCR-1 even though the crosshairs are 3x thinner. While shooting I am not aware the hash marks are there. I concentrate on the crosshair intersection and the point I want to break my shot. I tried to use the horz hash marks a few times for hold-off but it is entirely too easy to screw up and use the wrong one for me.

Since I am always above 40x while shooting, the hash calibration at 40x means little to me. The hash marks serve little purpose for me, but hurt nothing. I know the distance between the target rings so I don’t use the hash marks while firing sighters.

If I was to change my reticle I would go to the CTR-2 because I like a full height vert cross hair of the CTR-2. In fact I have one in the safe but haven’t tried it out yet. Since the CTR-1 has such a thin wire thickness and no other reference points like a dot or hash marks I am afraid it might get lost in poor conditions.

 

[jlow]

jlow,
FWIW, I use the FCR-1 since I used NF BR models w/ the NPR-2 reticle for 15 years of FC high level competition. When I changed to the Competition model it was natural to use the FCR-1 even though the crosshairs are 3x thinner. While shooting I am not aware the hash marks are there. I concentrate on the crosshair intersection and the point I want to break my shot. I tried to use the horz hash marks a few times for hold-off but it is entirely too easy to screw up and use the wrong one for me.

Since I am always above 40x while shooting, the hash calibration at 40x means little to me. The hash marks serve little purpose for me, but hurt nothing. I know the distance between the target rings so I don’t use the hash marks while firing sighters.

If I was to change my reticle I would go to the CTR-2 because I like a full height vert cross hair of the CTR-2. In fact I have one in the safe but haven’t tried it out yet. Since the CTR-1 has such a thin wire thickness and no other reference points like a dot or hash marks I am afraid it might get lost in poor conditions.

Thanks for the additional input!