OP-
Your first step down the road of confusion.
In you manual- does it state in the 3/4 back section bullet caliber, weight and starting and max loads for that round and powder? If it does, the rest is up to you to find the best charge for the round in YOUR rifle.
There are two things to initially ascertain 1. bullet seating depth, and 2. charge.
The depth test can take a few trips to the range. Go to the Berger bullet site, read and follow the test they recommend for finding the appropriate seating depth.
http://www.bergerbullets.com/getting-the-best-precision-and-accuracy-from-vld-bullets-in-your-rifle/
After you narrow it down and refine the results, then go to the charge information in the back of your manual. Load the starting charge for your powder and go up by .3 grains or so every 15 or so rounds until you get to about 80% of the max allowed. You don't yet want to flirt with max loads (if ever). Pick the best and then go .2 grains on either side of that, then refine down to .1 grain.
If your rifle has a magazine, you may not go over the recommended overall length (OAL) . If no magazine, you may.
In the manual, when deciding loads, look for twist on your barrel. a 1:7 twist will have different information than for a 1:9 twist for your caliber.
GO REAL SLOW AND DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK EACH STEP AND IF A CONUNDRUM ARISES, STOP AND ASK HERE. It will be a lot better than having to toss out 50 rounds made incorrectly and starting over, or having an "incident" at the range requiring medical treatment or an autopsy.
* Learn what you can about ogive measurement. It is an important measurement.
