Newbie question on brass, propellant etc

[Rmoore7167]

Hi First post. Ive gone through previous posts and gleaning some good info but Im kind of nervous about a few things and just would like some guidance. I just purchased a RCBS Revel reload kit. Im going to focus in beginning on 9mm Ruger for our P365 and my wife has a 9mm AR. Right now just doing target shooting...and will do some personal defense loads at some point. I have a .223 AR but will load that later

1- I have a fair amount of brass from a variety of manufacturers. ALL are brass. Is it ok to reload all of these as long as they are in good (all one shot) shape?

2- I have the Speers manual that came with kit. I want to start with just 115 grain and maybe down line will do 147 grain. I do have loads Ive purchased for self defense. I see a variety of different powders. I see on line that everyone has their own favorite. Sooooo without getting into a debate on whats best how do you pick? I was noticing there are a few powders that I can use for the 115 and the 147....so does that make sense to purchase one that does both to start? I will start at minimum loads and work my way up....I guess...not sure what I will be looking for though as far as performance

3- seems that once you pic a powder then the Primer just goes along with it right?

4- bullets....for target shooting whats best one do use as far as style? FMJ etc? Does the manufacture matter or just look for whats is the cheapest price?

Finally any other manuals that are better than what i have or just start there?

Thanks is advance!

 

[David Christian]

Welcome to the forum! You are asking a lot of prudent questions. If I were to start from the beginning, beyond following a reloading manual I would seek out a local range and find a few fellow shooters that are willing to coach/mentor me with the basics and then spin that practical knowledge to my own use. Knowledge gained from other reloaders will speed your learning curve and help you avoid unneeded rabbit holes. Good luck!

 

[SeabeeKen]

Welcome to the forum! You are asking a lot of prudent questions. If I were to start from the beginning, beyond following a reloading manual I would seek out a local range and find a few fellow shooters that are willing to coach/mentor me with the basics and then spin that practical knowledge to my own use. Knowledge gained from other reloaders will speed your learning curve and help you avoid unneeded rabbit holes. Good luck!

Strongly recommend this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
reading the how to section in your speer manual is a good start also. Most all of us were mentored by an experienced reloader thru the basics and beyond.

 

[Sandstorm]

I completely agree with David's comments regarding getting started. Find someone experienced in your area willing to help you get started so that you have a more clear and SAFE path. Its easy to get in trouble especially loading pistol cartridges. Stay safe please and be careful.

 

[fkimble@charter.net]

Pistol brass life can be very long. Only two things keep me from using pistol brass for countless reloads. 1- brass flies to parts unknown never to be seen again. 2 - brass finally develops a split in at the case mouth. Don't over do the case mouth expanding and the cases will last a very long time. And a 9mm should use a taper crimp and not a roll crimp. I have migrated from cast lead bullets to the colored coating bullets. Use them for most target type loads. Also use Precision Delta jacketed loads in some auto handguns. They have hollow point bullets but they are NOT self defense bullets,
they are TARGET bullets. Primers - I use that ever is the cheapest, but now days that equals what ever is available! In 9mm I prefer 124/5 weight bullets. The faster powders work fine for most of the bullet weights, just slight difference in the amount. Pistols don't use a lot of powder but the less you use, the more rounds you get per pound. Be careful on overall length, with barrel out of gun, use it to determine max length. Keep shortening the round til it will drop in the barrel even with the end of barrel, you can easily rotate it with you fingers and it will drop out under its own weight when you point barrel up. This is know as the plunk test from the sound the round makes when dropped in the barrel. Then test in the magazine and shorten as needed. You can seat a little shorter if needed for proper functioning. If you change bullet type or brand redo the above. All 9mm bullets do not have the same nose profile. And be very careful with the fast powders, it's very easy to double charge a case. Some suggest a beginner start with a medium speed powder such as Unique. It tahes a little more powder, but a double charge will show up easily.

Good luck and don't over think it. Take a look the the Brian Enos forum for more than you will ever want to know about pistol loading.

Frank

 

[Charlie-NY]

I know this isn't what you are asking but ...............

9mm is probably the only cartridge that doesn't make sense to reload IMO. If you look online at places like Targetsportsusa.com, you will see that bulk 9mm ammo is rather inexpensive. If you look at the cost of reloading components, you would be lucky to break even with your reloads. Loading 9mm ammo may be a hobby but it won't save you any money and may actually cost more than just buying bulk ammo.

Just my 2 cents and I "was" a 9mm reloader.

 

[6BRA]

I know this isn't what you are asking but ...............

9mm is probably the only cartridge that doesn't make sense to reload IMO. If you look online at places like Targetsportsusa.com, you will see that bulk 9mm ammo is rather inexpensive. If you look at the cost of reloading components, you would be lucky to break even with your reloads. Loading 9mm ammo may be a hobby but it won't save you any money and may actually cost more than just buying bulk ammo.

Just my 2 cents and I "was" a 9mm reloader.

Pistol reloading is no different than benchrest reloading. The loads/velocity / accuracy in particular are noticeably better when you find the right load. This includes 9mm.

 

[markm87]

9mm is a good learn the ropes cartridge to reload, but as mentioned, it's not the most economically optimal cartridge to load.

Just load small batches until you're completely confident in your product. Nothing sucks balls more than having a hundred rounds that need to be pulled down because they won't chamber, or are too hot, etc.

My first lesson was DON'T obsess with dial calipers. My 45 ogive was different so when I made the ammo to exact OAL spec, it wouldn't chamber. Your pistols barrel is a great guage.

 

[SteveUrban]

A couple of things to consider, use carbide dies for the 9mm. You will want a way to clean your cases before you run them in the sizing die. The rcbs case lube is water soluble and works well for me, better than imperial I think.
Look at the NRA’s website for any reloading classes in your area.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Charlie-NY]

Pistol reloading is no different than benchrest reloading. The loads/velocity / accuracy in particular are noticeably better when you find the right load. This includes 9mm.

While that is certainly true - testing with various bulk ammo has also proven to have the same results.

 

[47WillysGuy]

Two things:

1-Be DAMN careful when powdering your prepared pistol cases and NOT double charge.

I read an article about a guy who would send his wife kids out of the house when he powdered his cases.

2- Why reload 9MM when a 1000 CT box costs 230.00 to 400.00, depending on your wallet. You'll spend more time at the reloading bench and but shooting less, if you decide to fall down the rabbit hole and roll your own.

Good luck! Be careful!

 

[SteveOak]

9mm is easy to load and a good cartridge to start on. Other than crimping, all of the other necessary operations are the same for most other cartridges.

Choosing a powder on the basis of how many loads you get from a pound is absurd.

Primer choice is not critical at this juncture. A small pistol primer from any reputable manufacturer will be fine.

 

[Ringostar]

I’ve never loaded handgun cartridges for a rifle. But i would think they might prefer different powders. Faster powders for shorter barrel, and slower for longer Barrel.

 

[K22]

I support the notion of having an experience reloader guide you through the process.

However, I would like to emphasize one extremely important issue with reloading pistol, YOU MUST HAVE A FAIL-SAFE SYSTEM TO AVOID A DOUBLE CHARGE.

Before charging case with powder, makes sure you have the correct powder and setting on the weighing / charging device you are using. If you are charging from a powder measure, condition the measure with 12 dummy charges then check on the scale to verify you are charging the correct amount before charging the cases.

The system I use is as the cases are primed, I turn them rim up in the loading block. As I charge each one, the case is turned rim-down. I check every 10th the powder charge on my beam balance. When all cases are charged, I inspect each case to make sure that there is no double charge.

Another important aspect of reloading for semi-auto pistol is to make sure the primers are seated properly. A high primer could cause a slam fire or misfire.

I would never advise beginners to load ammunition intended for self-defense.

 

[Rmoore7167]

WOW! Thanks for all the replies! Ill see if there is a local shooting range...Im pretty sure there is one and look at any classes etc. I really appreciate all the feedback and loading infromation. WHen I was doing my search on which forum is best this one came up as the top!

Kind of a bummer on saving any money but something to learn on in beginning. Guess I better just get another rifle ;-) with different caliper.

 

[Walt Krafft]

Learn on the 9mm now that you have it. But move on to rifle cartridges. Do not handload self defense ammo, if you ever need to use it, handloaded ammo will just give the lawyers more to argue about.

 

[jwv2001]

The first thing I will tell you is don't think of handloading as rocket science. Second is get a good set of dies. I personally use the Lee carbide 4 die set. Carbide saves you from having to lube cases during resizing. If you already have a loading data book, it should be sufficient for safe information. Look to create a consistent load to practice with. In this case, you're not in competition, you're looking to be capable and confident in your gun handling.
One caveat with regard to loading for a handgun, is the possibilities of overloading.
Don't worry about the cost. Use the process to streamline your loading procedures.
If you were actually talking about the RCBS "REBEL" kit, then you have what you need to make some great ammo.

 

[JMayo]

I learned to reload pistol on you tube.
Choose a powder that fills up the case too much for you to double charge.
Look at every charge.
A case gauge will keep you from allot of headaches range brass can be weird shaped just enough to cause problems.
Have fun with your new toys !

 

[TTE]

As many other have said ..... a double charge of powder is the most important thing to watch out for.

Separate cases by head stamp. Not all cases will tolerate the same loads

 

[searcher]

Pistol reloading is no different than benchrest reloading. The loads/velocity / accuracy in particular are noticeably better when you find the right load. This includes 9mm.

I tend to agree with this for plinking and such. 9mm ammo can be had fairly cheap. That said, learning how to reload is easier to do with a straight-wall brass case, I think, as opposed to the slight technical learning curve on setting headspace properly, etc. on bottle-neck rifle cartridges. I think it might be wise to purchase an "ammo checker" to lend a bit of confidence in getting ammo crafted that will function in the gun. When I was 14 and learning to reload, there was no mentor and no internet. I recall my earliest problem being having a case bulge from either over-flaring the mouth of the case or not enough or not enough, resulting in shaved lead wadcutters, etc. and some ammo not wanting to load as a result. It is a learning curve - and having a mentor is definitely a plus. Patience rules.