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New to reloading

I am totally new to reloading, and can't find anyone near me that reloads.

I am reloading some 223 that is once fired through my bolt action Savage 110

Looking at a Speer and Hornady manual it reads Max Case length as 1.760"
and a trim to length of 1.750. The brass is from Federal 223 55grain FMJ and
Federals number is BP 223 BL.

My question is about the length after sizing and decapping My empty brass is measuring
on average 1.744.8. (is this too short to reload?
New shells from the package are measuring on average 2.202 OACL and manual say's Max is 2.260.

Are my empty cases to short to reload? Thanks for any info, just don't want to damage a gun
 
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I would not think they are too short. My 338-06 brass is trimmed .010 shorter than minimum without any ill effects (as far as I can tell). Now I’m sure there is some problems associated with trimming brass shorter than minimum but I think it is manageable. Other more knowledgeable and more experienced members will be along shortly to confirm or correct my opinion (and I welcome it).
 
When brass is new and sometimes once fired it may measure .010 or so short of published length but to my knowledge there is no issues associated with hand loading it.
 
"Looking at a Speer and Hornady manual it reads Max Cartridge length as 1.760"
and a trim to length of 1.750. The brass is from Federal 223 55grain FMJ and Federals number is BP 223 B"

lets start with a small TERMINOLOGY correction.
MAX CASE LENGTH, NOT CARTIDGE IS 1.760
MAX CARTRIDGE LENGTH (SPEC) is 2.260

YOU BRASS IS FINE
YOUR max cartridge length is base on either your magazine length or
distance to the lands if single loaded.
buy the Hornady tool kit to decide hoe much to size your brass( do not listen to the fie makers) and how long to load your ammo/cartridge
 
"Looking at a Speer and Hornady manual it reads Max Cartridge length as 1.760"
and a trim to length of 1.750. The brass is from Federal 223 55grain FMJ and Federals number is BP 223 B"

lets start with a small TERMINOLOGY correction.
MAX CASE LENGTH, NOT CARTIDGE IS 1.760
MAX CARTRIDGE LENGTH (SPEC) is 2.260

YOU BRASS IS FINE
YOUR max cartridge length is base on either your magazine length or
distance to the lands if single loaded.
buy the Hornady tool kit to decide hoe much to size your brass( do not listen to the fie makers) and how long to load your ammo/cartridge


Sorry, that was a typo on my part. I just corrected it

And thanks for the reply
 
Trim after re-sizing not before... 2.200 OAL should be fine that's what the hornady manual calls for with 55gr fmj... DONT load them hot , you should be fine and measure your brass after firing and resizing the next time , they will get longer , don't trim if there in spec.... You will never get the same reading because the bullets themselves are not equal... So you seat three etc don't be surprised if they measure off by a few thousands OAL it's common...

If you're setting your dies up per instructions , read here on how to set them up for minimum shoulder bump so your brass lives longer , there's good instructions in the daily bulletin if you scroll down or you can use the search function.... Ask any questions here they will be answered.... Remember a screaming hot round isn't necessarily an accurate one... Start LOW and work up while looking for pressure signs... If you're not sure what those are once again hit the search button above.... I learned by myself years ago , don't get in a hurry , ask questions and read as much as you can... Reloading is safe as long as you follow the rules
 
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A more streamline bullet will probably help with accuracy. In an AR, I've had good luck with the Sierra 69g Match King. A good flying low cost bulk bullet is the Hornady 62g BTHP. And the best accuracy usually isn't the fastest velocity. Start on the low end and work your way up when working up a load.
e-223Bulletsall.jpg
The overall length of a loaded round may relate to the exact bullet used. I just checked some of my Federal brass that was recently fired and most are measuring 1.745 to 1.752".
At some point, figure out how to check whatever bullet you are using and set the seated depth to a certain distance from the lands in the barrel. This figure will usually only apply to one specific profile bullet.
 
I accidentally sent the other post before I was ready. I wouldn't be overly concerned the the length of the neck as long as it is shorter than specs. Longer can cause the round not to chamber to pinch the bullet if it does. The most important measurement is to not set the shoulders back any more than necessary. Check several pieces of your fired brass and set your resizing die to not set it back more than .001" - .002", less is better as long as the cases chamber easily. This can be checked with a dial caliper and a Hornady comparator. To set your die run it in until you see this measurement (shoulder set back) just start to decrease on one of your fired cases. Size and check several before locking the die adjustment in.
H-tool.jpg
Setting the shoulder back too far will overwork the brass because it has to expand the next time it is fired. The brass will wear out quickly and possibly even rupture after a few firings.
 
AND don't ever think you have a stupid question. I am, by far, the most ignorant person on this board, but will never learn to be better at hand loading if I don't ask questions. We have all been where you are now at one time or another. I am also ham fisted and my wife does my trigger and bolt work upon request so don't feel that you are most inept person here. I have less ept than the people here who have actually pretty much mastered the craft.
 
1.749" will not be an issue in terms of reloading your .223 Rem cases. They should grow longer over time with additional re-sizing/brass pre, so at some point you'll want to trim them. The 2.202" cartridge overall length (COAL) of the commercial ammunition you measured is a function of the particular bullet it has loaded, and what the manufacturer deemed to be optimal for that load. Commercial ammunition using different length/weight bullets can vary in terms of COAL, even from the same manufacturer. The 2.260" COAL value refers to the maximum length of loaded rounds that will feed from an unmodified magazine without issue. If you load rounds longer than that with an unmodified magazine, the bullet meplats may drag on the inside wall of the magazine and fail to feed properly.

FWIW - as described above, the 2.260" represents a maximum COAL for loaded rounds so they can feed properly from a magazine. However, you don't have to load rounds to that maximum length. COAL for loaded rounds usually represents a compromise of the following two variables:

A) not being seated too far down in the neck, which causes the bullet base to unnecessarily occupy more case volume and can increase pressure for a given charge weight

B) maintaining a specific distance relationship of the bullet to the rifling in the barrel.


Most bullets will exhibit a strong preference in terms of optimum precision/accuracy when they are seated so that the point on the bullet ogive that first makes contact as the bullet enters the rifling is a specific distance away from touching the lands. A bullet seated any farther out in the neck such that it has actually entered the rifling is considered to be seated "into the lands" or jammed. A bullet seated just out of the lands is considered to be jumped.

Bullets in commercial ammunition are almost never seated into the rifling, or jammed, although reloaders can choose to do this on their own reloads if their is some advantage to precision in do so. Basically, you don't want the bullet seated way down in the case, occupying space that could be used for more powder. Nor do you generally want the bullet hanging so far out of the neck that it isn't solidly held in place by the neck tension (i.e. too little bullet bearing surface seated in the neck), but magazine length restrictions are normally shorter than that. So you want the bullet at a distance from touching the lands where it shoots well, but not sunk way down in the neck.

How can this compromise be made using very light (short) bullets for a given caliber, and those that are much longer (heavier)? The answer lies in a segment of the rifle chamber just in front of the end of the case neck that is referred to as the freebore, or lead. Basically, it's a section of the rifle bore where the nose of a bullet will fit when a round is chambered, but where the rifling hasn't started yet, so the bullet can freely move through it. By using reamers that cut different freebore lengths, shooters can literally choose what length (weight) bullets their rifle will be optimal for shooting by maintaining some specific distance (range) between a seated bullet and the start of the rifling. A picture is worth one thousand words, so I pinched the following image from 68forums.com, which shows very clearly the relationships I am trying to describe:

Freebore diagram.png
https://68forums.com/forums/showthr...ference-between-the-freebore-leade-and-throat


FWIW - I know there must be plenty of experienced shooters/reloaders in your neck of the woods. Having someone point out a few basics could make the process so much easier and more rewarding for someone just starting out. I would suggest posting a request here in the reloading forum to see if you can find someone in your area that can contact you directly. If so, it will make the learning curve much easier. Good luck with it!
 
I've encountered the same issue with Federal brass harvested from 223 factory loads. In reality it just means you'll probably never have to trim them, depending upon your sizing techniques. I neck size only for my bolt gun and get dozens of cycles on my brass and almost never trim except to get necks to a consistent length.

You can do yourself a favor and buy an inexpensive endoscope (borescope) camera like the Teslong written about exhaustively on this forum. Then chamber an empty case and using the camera look at where the case mouth falls relative to the end of the chamber.

This will answer a lot of your questions and concerns. Excessive clearance will cause carbon buildup, and with the camera you can track this and take remedial steps to keep that area clear of carbon. It'll also identify potential problems with your barrel cleaning processes, throat erosion, copper buildup, etc.

It's a valuable tool that will shorten your learning curve considerably.
 
AND don't ever think you have a stupid question. I am, by far, the most ignorant person on this board, but will never learn to be better at hand loading if I don't ask questions. We have all been where you are now at one time or another. I am also ham fisted and my wife does my trigger and bolt work upon request so don't feel that you are most inept person here. I have less ept than the people here who have actually pretty much mastered the craft.
I guess that leaves me in second place
 

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