New to reloading need a mentor

[SSL]

Just curious why 20 at 42.5. Every where I read is to work up by .3 increments to find the sweet spot

What everyone is trying to say is don't jump in with both feet. If you load 100 rounds according to your plans, if your second load is too hot, you have a whole bunch of bullets to pull from the rest of your cartridges. Start low and work with no more than 3 to 5 cartridges of each load. Load 3 to 5 rounds each of your first two powder charges .2 to .3 grains apart and try them. Record your conditions and groups. Do not proceed to increase powder charges until you verify that the ones you have are safe. Just because the "book" says that a certain bullet/powder/primer/case combination reaches maximum pressure in their test barrel does not mean that the same will be true in yours. It is not at all uncommon to reach pressure signs in particular rifles long before the "book" value is reached. I have two that do just that.

As to equipment...start with the absolute basics as suggested. As you gain skill and experience you can decide for yourself just what you really need to spend your money on. If you are just shooting for fun, most of the "precision" items referred to are of no real value to you.

Everyone is trying to keep you safe, not spoil your fun. Take it slow and easy and work carefully. Reloading is quite safe as long as you pay attention and do not try to cut common sense corners.

 

[Mouse-Gunner]

I have been reloading for for 51 years. When I was growing up I cut my reloading teeth on a copy of “The Complete Guide to Handloading” by Phillip B Sharpe my father had. I still have a copy, it’s a well read friend. Sharpe was an excellent writer, and the book is very entertaining and full of good information despite its age.

There are many good reloading manuals out there today. Even though new editions appear every few years, they really don’t go out of date. You may also want to keep an eye out for YouTube videos on reloading. Some of these videos are really well done and I respect the authors work. One of my favorites is Johnny’s Reloading Bench. He is very thorough.

Respectfully,

Mouse-Gunner

 

[Pres100]

I would agree - don’t start with 100 rounds. 20-25 is plenty. The purpose for 0.3 gr separation is to help understand pressure signs in your rifle, velocity nodes and some grouping. If you are not measuring with a chronograph, you will only be able to look at pressure signs, group size and elevation changes. You don’t want to load up 100 and find out you got pressure signs down low in the charge weights and have to pull most of the bullets to start over.

 

[dolek]

I would agree - don’t start with 100 rounds. 20-25 is plenty. The purpose for 0.3 gr separation is to help understand pressure signs in your rifle, velocity nodes and some grouping. If you are not measuring with a chronograph, you will only be able to look at pressure signs, group size and elevation changes. You don’t want to load up 100 and find out you got pressure signs down low in the charge weights and have to pull most of the bullets to start over.

+1 on this advice . I learned that lesson a long time ago , sadly I still repeat that mistake at times . Can't think too far ahead .

 

[Fotheringill]

Safety, safety, safety, safety.

I remember my fear when loading my first hand made round into the chamber and very slowly closing the bolt AFTER tying a 20 or so foot piece of twine on the trigger, asking the rest of the line to clear out, standing behind and off the right of the trigger and pulling the twine. I am still here to write about it with the same number of holes in my body that I had before learning to hand load.

Always be careful and if it don't feel right, start over, hence the advice above about handloading five or so rounds a time until you feel comfortable. Better to toss or pull five rounds rather than being cocky and then having to take apart 100 rounds.

 

[Ccrider]

You may want to consider loading one load increasing your charge weight by .03 or so until you see pressure sign(s). That way you will know where max charge weight is for that load.

 

[dgeesaman]

You may want to consider loading one load increasing your charge weight by .03 or so until you see pressure sign(s). That way you will know where max charge weight is for that load.

Check your decimals - I think you mean 0.3 grain increments.

FWIW there is no reason to keep going until you see pressure signs. If you see a good node taking shape and the velocity is acceptable, you can continue refining the load at that charge weight and enjoy more safety and longer barrel life.

David

 

[Ccrider]

Check your decimals - I think you mean 0.3 grain increments.

FWIW there is no reason to go until you see pressure signs. If you see a good mode taking shape and the velocity is acceptable, you can continue refining the load at that charge weight and enjoy more safety and longer barrel life.

David

You are correct, .3.
As to how high to go, do what you are comfortable with. Sometimes you get pressure signs before reaching book max, sometimes after. Of course, recognizing pressure signs is a whole nuther discussion.

 

[ChitownCopper]

I have been reading a lot on pressure signs to make sure I dont screw anything up. I need to get a chrono. But that will have to wait I'm broke already

 

[dgeesaman]

I have been reading a lot on pressure signs to make sure I dont screw anything up. I need to get a chrono. But that will have to wait I'm broke already

You may well be able to borrow a basic chrono from someone. Most of us who have a “good” chrono still have a basic one or two that get little use anymore. Perfect example of Dustys advice about a mentor.

 

[Ccrider]

Chronos are good but you can tell without one.

 

[ChitownCopper]

How do I do that

 

[Ccrider]

How do I do that

There are wayyyy more qualified on this forum than me to answer that question. I can tell you what I do. I start low and work up. Each load is different. Go slow.you will get comfortable after a few 1000 loads

You will see or feel signs when the load is getting close to max. Slightly stiff bolt. Crescent like mark on the case. These are the first pressure signs I have noticed. As you increase the charge you will see primer cratering or flattening. Be safe. Stay within recommended loads until you get the feel for things.

 

[Sixgun]

For a .308...Varget with 175 Bergers. Of course always work up. Since you have 4064...41.75gr. With 175 smk's is Federal's Gold Medal load. Good place to start.

 

[Sixgun]

BTW...reloading is black hole.

 

[ChitownCopper]

I'm starting to see that

 

[Sixgun]

Make sure you rotate your cases 180, size, rotate 180, size again. The same goes for seating. It helps keep'em concentric.

 

[Sixgun]

David Tubb says either IN the lands or OFF the lands...never at the lands. Of course, hundreds of forum members may or may not agree.

 

[Sixgun]

 

[Sixgun]

To be cost efficient...you could do it without the Redding set and adjust your die. It might take a bit longer but once it's done it's done. You only do it once. The slightest feel on the up stroke is all you need. You have to consider the leverage you're applying.. otherwise your concentricity will suffer.