As you can see, there will be subtle variations in different people's approaches on certain steps. On steps where pretty much everyone does something a certain way, there's usually a good reason. Here's my addition to the list (I shoot F-TR using no turn neck chambers):
FL or neck size? What dies do you use?
FL size using Redding Type S Competition dies and a bushing that is ~.002" under the loaded neck diameter. Not the most expensive dies available, but I've been very happy with the results.
Anneal? If so before or after sizing and how often?
Giraud annealing machine, I anneal every firing; basically, I deprive, clean (Thumbler's Tumbler w SS pins, hot water, Dawn detergent, Lemishine crystals, ~45 min), rinse well and dry 1-2 h in a food evaporator
Meplat trim bullets and tip them?
I sort every lot of bullets by OAL into sub-groups of ~.002" increments. I typically get 5-6 groups from a lot of bullets, although the longest and shortest group will usually have a few that are quite a bit longer/shorter. This sorting can be done away from the bench (i.e. while watching TV) very easily. It allows me to using the Whidden pointing die on bullets within a single length group without having to reset the micrometer. So far I have been very pleased with the results. I have the trimming tools, I just find trimming to be a PITA and have never been satisfied with the appearance of the points after trimming. I am also not convinced in my hands that the trimmed and pointed bullets provide any better results than length-sorted and pointed bullets. Shooting length-sorted/pointed bullets in matches side-by side with otherwise identically loaded unmodified bullets straight out of the box routinely shows not only a slight decrease in dialed elevation, but more importantly, tighter groups on the target. These results can be seen even at distances of only 300 yd.
Uniform flash holes and chamfer?
Uniform flash holes on all cases straight out of the box (prior to first firing, one time only).
Uniform primer pockets? If so after first firing or before?
Uniform primer pockets after first firing, and every firing thereafter.
Sort bullets by weight or from base to ogive length?
Bullets in a new lot are all weighed, but not as a "sorting step" per se. Rather, you're only looking to cull out any that show extreme deviation from the norm. Most will be in a fairly narrow range. Any gross outliers can be used as foulers/sighters. If bullet weight only varies in the 4th decimal place (or less), the theoretical effect on velocity will only be in the 4th decimal place (or less), so I tend not to worry about it. Extremely precise powder measurement (+/- one half kernel), meticulous brass prep (i.e. proper neck tension), proper primer selection for the specific powder/load, and uniform seating depth are the most important things, IMO. The many different lots of Berger bullets I have used have been extremely good with respect to weight variance.
Many people sort bullets base to ogive. I personally don't think this accomplishes much. What you're really controlling by doing this is the amount of bullet shank down in the case neck for bullets seated at the identical seating depth. I have found over time that I can move a jumped bullet by as much as .009" in either direction without changing the velocity (pressure changed caused by more/less shank in the case neck) enough that my chronograph can even reliably measure the difference. So I'm not a believer that sorting bullets base to ogive accomplishes much on that aspect, unless you're changing the seating depth by a fairly large increment. I believe uniform seating depth is far more important. Sorting base to ogive won't do anything with regard to uniform seating depth; you're measuring a region of the bullet outside the points where the seating die stem contacts the nose of the bullet and on the bullet ogive where your caliper inserts contacts. If you really want to sort bullets to improve uniformity in seating depth, Bob Green's Comparator tool sorts based on this region and will allow you to do that.
Bottom line is that consistency and uniformity are essential for a tuned load to perform reproducibly. As I mentioned, precise powder charges, the right primer, and consistent neck tension/seating depth will go a long way toward getting you where you want to be. These aspects do not always require the latest and most expensive equipment, either. I have had good success using the Redding dies and a simple Rockchucker press, certainly solid quality, but not nearly the most expensive equipment available. However, I am willing to spend the time to ensure that everything reloading step I do is absolutely the same, every time I do it, and that will pay off on the firing line.
