New reloaded inspecting brass

[BigBoss6474]

Hey all, I'm new to the game as I'm sure tons of others are during these strange times. I'm inspecting my brass, specifically .223, and there's these scratches on the neck. Being so new im not sure if I should reject them or just run them, any input would be great! Thanks!!

 

[RegionRat]

This is another "it depends" question.

How was this brass used? In a semi-auto, bolt gun, or other?

How will this brass be used? Blasting ammo, or high reliability, or accuracy ammo?

If for example this is going to be ammo for a sporting chamber and high performance isn't required, it will size up well enough to "work".

If you are picky, then don't use this for precision or accuracy work till after you test it the way you plan to use it.

Brass is malleable to a degree but those defects will have their effect on the neck even after sizing. Blasting ammo isn't the same level of picky as accuracy ammo, but only your testing with your processing and shooting will tell.

This can make a safe reload, but it isn't going to be first class brass that I would use for accuracy work. If the dents are small enough, the dies will push the tops of the asperities around to the point where the bullet will seat and the round will chamber. Expect some runout under these circumstances. Sometimes this spoils accuracy, sometimes the performance falls within "normal".

Service Rifles can be hard on cases. We use the less pretty ones for the short line ammo, 200 and 300 yards, and the good ones for the 600 yard line.

If only a few of them have these defects, put them aside for blasting ammo or test for purpose.

If this was from an AR pattern rifle, see if the ejection pattern is normal. Sometimes an AR will nick and dent necks when the ejection timing is way off due to strange loadings, and not create as much damage when the pressure and timing is normal. Semi-autos are harder on brass when compared to bolt guns, but you can still get many cycles out of the brass when the guns run right.

 

[mensajd]

Please distinguish from these two scenarios - marks made during ejection or during brass processing? If the latter, something is seriously amiss.

 

[Cemetery21]

Assuming it's an AR, you are probably getting those scratches during extraction. The ejector forces the neck to the right during extraction until the neck gets to the port. The locking lug cuts in the barrel extension usually have some sharp corners. Stick your pinky finger in there and feel them on the right side where the neck of the brass rides during extraction. Normally, the corners of 2 lug cuts at about 3:00 are the culprit. If you can gently ease those corners with a jewelers file or stone, it will eliminate the scratches. Take the sharp edges off the 2 feed ramps while you are in there and save bullet scratches. Just don't mar the chamber.
There are areas of the bolt face and extractor hook that can be softened to be kinder to brass also.

 

[Cemetery21]

And, like Mr. R..Rat said:

"it depends"

If this is a war-fighting tactical ninja assault weapon, don't worry about the brass until it gets too deep to navigate.

I don't have any of those, so I do all I can to save brass. If I get a malfunction, the paper targets or the mobile targets usually don't counter-attack.

 

[RegionRat]

Please distinguish from these two scenarios - marks made during ejection or during brass processing? If the latter, something is seriously amiss.

Can't tell if you are asking out loud, or asking the OP for clarification.

My guess is these are AR pattern ejection marks, but the OP will chime in to say for sure. Like Cemetery21 said, this is not uncommon when the brass hits the edges of the lugs of the bbl extension. There is a debugging process for AR ejection issues, but at this point that would only be useful if the OP says the marks are from an AR in the first place.

 

[mensajd]

Can't tell if you are asking out loud, or asking the OP for clarification.

My guess is these are AR pattern ejection marks, but the OP will chime in to say for sure. Like Cemetery21 said, this is not uncommon when the brass hits the edges of the lugs of the bbl extension. There is a debugging process for AR ejection issues, but at this point that would only be useful if the OP says the marks are from an AR in the first place.

Asking for clarification. Extraction/ejection issues are distinct from brass processing issues. Different root causes.

 

[K22]

Those don't look like "scratches" to me - more like "gouges". I wouldn't run them through my dies for fear of potentially scratching the die or depositing brass particles inside the die which will lead to scaring the die.

I'm not an AR guy but those imperfections look like something the rifle is creating during the ejection / extraction process. I see similar imperfections of discarded brass at the range presumably from the semi-auto AR guys.

The OP should provide info on the firearm used.

 

[BigBoss6474]

Thanks for the reply!! As I learn I'm not too concerned with making uber precision rounds, I just wanted to be sure they were safe!

 

[BigBoss6474]

Those don't look like "scratches" to me - more like "gouges". I wouldn't run them through my dies for fear of potentially scratching the die or depositing brass particles inside the die which will lead to scaring the die.

I'm not an AR guy but those imperfections look like something the rifle is creating during the ejection / extraction process. I see similar imperfections of discarded brass at the range presumably from the semi-auto AR guys.

The OP should provide info on the firearm used.

These weren't shot by me, I picked up brass from a shop to reload. They were all in a big bag marked 556, im assuming they were shot from an AR

 

[spaniel]

Unless this was precision competition...F-Class or similar, I'd just run them.

I have a precision AR I build which I worked up with Winchester brass and 60gr VMAX bullets. Shoots consistently sub-.5MOA, which I was extremely satisfied with for an AR.

Out of curiosity, when I got a batch of mixed once-fired brass in for bulk plinking ammo I loaded up a bunch of them with the dimensions and load for the precision AR. To my surprise, despite mixed manufacturers, I couldn't tell the difference on paper. I didn't run over the chrono or at longer ranges. But it was an interesting learning moment.

 

[JSH]

Once fired range brass, shot from who knows, ya get way ya paid for.
I would be more concerned about crimped primers and taking care of that. One will see various dents and gouges from semi autos.
Your results may vary on target at distance. Also I was gifted some brass with what I deem cheap ammo. I bent several recapping rods before I sized up. The flash hole was wayyyy off center. I tossed all of the cheap foreign brass as it was the problem.
If that slight nick on a brass case, scratches your dies you better get new dies. A file will slide right over a die and not leave a mark “harder than woodpecker lips” comes to mind.

 

[cw308]

When your post said my brass it sounded like it was shot from your rifle , range brass would have been better. After reloading for awhile you'll get a feel what's good and bad . The mark on the neck won't harm your die and after sizing you will see if it's worth reloading . You should be on the lookout for cracks at the neck and a shiny ring lower on the case from stretching . Watch your case length and trim if needed , I trim every reload to keep every case as close to exact as possible. Those cases pictured are fine looking at the pictures. I pop the primers first with a universal decapper then clean the brass before sizing , easier on the dies and easier to see any problems with the brass . Lube your case , a stuck case in your die is no pick nick.

 

[Ccrider]

Odds are the necks will split in the gouged places if running at decent pressure.

 

[K22]

I know it's popular to pick up range brass or buy "one fired" brass for reloading because of the economics of this practice. This is especially in vogue these days where the AR guys are pounding 50 to 100 rounds per range session.

Far be it from me to tell anyone what to do in that regards but I learned the hard way not to attempt to reload used cases from unknown sources.

If you size cases properly you can easily amortize the cost of new cases and save one's self some grief - I get about 15 to 17 reloads out of a new case and probably could get more but I retire them after that many reloads. But then again I only reload and shoot bolt rifles shooting only 10 to 15 rounds per range session so a batch of cases lasts me a long time.