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New Guy Wanting a 6mmBR

I've been reading this site for months now. I've been wanting to build a 600 yd rifle for paper punching, no competitions. From what I've read here and other boards, the 6mmbr seems to be the way to go. I've got lots of questions, so bare with me. I want to do this right the first time without dropping mega cash in the wrong direction.

I want to shoot the 75vmax, 87vmax, and 107 sierras, so I'm thinking 1/8 twist. Correct? Since I'm not shooting comps, weight is not a problem so I thought I would go with a 28in barrel,pac-nor) to allow for future set-backs.

One thing I am unclear on is how long is the col on the 107's? Do I need a long action for them? I plan to single feed so mag feeding is not an issue.

My action will be savage for starters, going with a .272 no turn neck for lapau brass. I plan on full-length resizing just to barely bump the shoulder back, but what brand of dies do you guys recommend? I use RCBS for everything now. Got plenty of varget on hand, so I should be good to go there and plan to use cci 450 primers.

Any stock recommendations? Not too many makers out there inletting for savages or I may be looking in the wrong places.

Thanks in advance for the help. Not looking to set any records or win comps, just be able to shoot in the .4's consistently.
 
Heres a nice set up,priced reasonably, that my local gunshop has for sale in 6 BR

http://216.219.244.51/guns/976695531.htm
 
Justin,

A short action Savage will work fine for your 6BR. Read Poor Mans Hammer in the Gun of the week archives. Our moderator did just what you are talking about.

If you go with a .060 freebore you can shoot all the bullets that you mentioned and then some. .060 is a good do it all reamer.

Dies: Swallow hard and pay the bucks for the Redding Competition die set. Gives you a micrometer seater, micrometer neck bushing die, and a body die to bump the shoulder. Get a couple of bushings in the .267-.269 range and you are set.
You can save some dollars this route by buying a Redding type S bushing die,no micrometer full length or neck), a Forrester competition seater, and again the Redding body die if needed.

Stocks: Savage Shooters Supply can fix you up there at a fraction of the price for a McMillan. Again, looking at saving some $$$.

It's nice to look at pictures of $2800 rifles but you don't need to go that route to have fun.

Good luck, and good shooting!

Danny
 
dreever,yes the gun is nice to look at.Its also hell on wheels,shot very little and will hold its value.
dmoran is right,with the gun and scope,its a bargain you wont find anywhere else.
The dealer has this and other like new Nesika rifles listed.Hell of a nice guy,Mark Blote,First Stop Gun 605-341-5211).
I can about guarantee that you will not find a deal as good as the one I posted for the price no matter where you look,but to each his own.
If your interested Mark has other Nesika built rifles you can see at the Guns America site.Click on "by state" then South Dakota,then the GA store for First Stop Gun.Hes got most of them listed in the tactical section.
The only reason I posted this ad is because the gun is a hellva deal for the lucky one that gets,got) to it first.
For anyone interested his shop will be open today at 10:00 AM MST I believe.
 
Justin. Stick with your Savage for starters. Get a "short throat" chambered barrel and you're ready to go. A "no turn" neck and you can spend more time shooting rather than messing with brass. After you get your feet wet you can decide if you want to make a real $$$ investment.
I just finished my Savage 110 "short action",.223) and it is "lots" of fun to shoot!,single shot follower)
Barrels can be had for $300.00 to $500.00. Depends on what you want. You're base gun, spin on barrel, after market stock and trigger and you're good to go.
I use RCBS dies and am very pleased with the ammo they turn out.
A Boyd's or Richards Micro-Fit stock can be had for aprox $200.00 or less. With you're Savage, if you don't like the caliber, spin another barrel on it and try something else.
Whatever you do, have fun!;) HTH. Mike.
 
Donovan,

I didn't say it wasn't a good deal. From Justins post he stated that he intends to go with a Savage action for starters. This leads me to believe he either already has an action, or he want's to try to keep the dollars down.
That rifle is advertized for $2299 without scope or $2999 with, a good deal for someone looking for a full bore custom with three grand to spend, but we don't know if Justin want's to go that route.

Danny
 
My comments: I wouldn't short throat the rifle. I have an .080 Freebore and the 75s have plenty of bearing surface in the neck. The 87gr Vmax actually have a pretty long bearing surface, so a .100" Freebore will work for them as well as the 107s.

31.3 Varget may be too hot for you with the 87s. I suggest you start at 30.5 Varget and work up.

Check your budget. While Savage is an inexpensive way to go, the Stiller Predator, at around $650, is another good option. Between the Savage and Predator, I'd rather have a predator.

I have a Richard's Micro-Fit stock. I wouldn't use that company again. There was a problem with the inletting in the rear of the action. I recommend a laminate from Baer, Shehane, or Richard's Custom Rifles. I don't have any experience with the Fiberglass MBR from SSS, but others have had success with them.
 
Justin,

Over on www.benchrest.com in the classifieds there are two 6BR's for sale both on Remington actions for $1000 and $1250 respectfully. Don't be afraid to buy a tight neck, any smith can open it up to a no turn for you.

Danny
 
The advantage of the Savage action is that you can change the barrel yourself in less than 1/2 hour. Do it 2 or 3 times and it can be done with your eyes closed! ;)
As far as a "short throat" chamber, some folks may throat to SAMMI specs that might be too long for shorter bullets.,55s) Mine is longer than I wanted. The 55s won't get close to the lands but the heavier, 75/80 s can be loaded to a jam. Even the 55s are doing tight groups so a longer throat may not be that much of a problem afterall.,blame it on the 6BR!) :D
The Savage sure beats sending your rifle out to a smith everytime you want to rebarrel.

Richards Micro-Fit stocks need lots of fitting and finish work but they do have lots of style options. If you don't mind working the stock over, it's a good way to go. And the price is about 1/2 of a "custom" stock.
If the cost to bulid a rig is a big factor, go with a Savage. You can always spend more $$$ later! That way you can decide what options you would like to add on your "next" rifle!;)
 
Heres a Savage 16FSS that started out as a .204.,never fired) Sold the barrel and plastic stock. Rebarreled with a Sharp Shooter Supply .223 and a Richards Micro -Fit stock.,soon to be a 6BR ;))
.308 bolt head for the 6BR takes about 15 minutes to change.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I admit the rifle in the link sure is nice, but too rich for my blood. I like the looks of the custom actions, but it'll probably be a savage or remington the first time around. I'll take a look at the SSS stocks. I really want a drop in fit and prefer a full aliminum block for bedding so that I don't have to bed the action if possible. The nearest competent gunsmith is over an hour away from here so I like to do the work myself.

Here's what I gathered so far, the savage short action should work. Seems like the 28inch 1/8 twist barrel is the way to go, probably get a SSS trigger or a timney. NXS are great, but it'll probably get a fixed weaver Txx. My main goal is to practice my shooting techniques and have a rifle that will deliver, that way I know what, actually who, is to blame for fliers, etc. The longest range I can shoot right now is about 700 yds at my "private range". I figured the above will be a good start.

For throats, seems like there is a little discussion as to which will be best for me. I welcome more opinions, if not, I'll go with a .060 freebore as suggested.

Optics, will the weaver give me what I want? I currently shoot nikon monarchs and elite 4200's, but they are more of a varmint scope. I would also appreciate some input on reticle for such precision work.

Thanks again for the input, it's nice to get the knowledge from people who have been there done that before I start.
 

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