New at reloading need opinion
- Thread starter edix
- Start date
I bought some Peterson brass I have yet had time to shoot it. I'll hopefully have time next weekend to do some more experimenting.
64Rambler
Gold $$ Contributor
You mentioned that you resized new Alpha brass, which you really shouldn't have to do. Maybe to round out a case mouth a bit, but as new it should fit. If you haven't already, don't size the new Peterson - just load a few and go see how the brass behaves.
He had many relies stating he had pressure and didn't want to back off on the powder.
Sorry if I sounded like a smart ass. If those are ejector swipe marks on the case heads it's definitly high pressure no matter what the powder charge is. Maybe you have a tight chamber and barrel?
That's why I'm asking for help and knowledge. Everything i read says look at the primer for the first sign of pressure. Well I get those funky primer strikes at 36gr of powder (where i started) on up. Now despite what I have read its a consensus on here that the primer mark i am seeing is do to it being a Rem 700 firing pin issue. OK still don't understand how that is. No factory ammo I have ever shot out of a 700 or any other model has ever looked like that. Hammer says pay attention to velocity along with ejector marks and primer. (Noted) moved the bullet out things got a little better. I guess I'll go deeper and try 2.700 that would be about 050 off the lands. Now my question would be how to tell if powder is compressed or not? I don't want to end up in another head scratcher.
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
Easy way to see the relationship between powder and bullet seated depth is to simply take a fired case with the primer still in, drop your measured load and then lightly set a bullet on the powder and measure length. Compare that to your loaded length. If you can expand the neck of an unfired case, then do that also to compare numbers. Fired vs unfired capacity.
There are ways to get an ejector swipe, without flattening the primer. So when you see conflicting signs, every single piece of data is important. Headspace/cartridge fit is an important one. Is sounds like you have comparator headed your way and that will help sort that out.
The ejector marks are a result of the brass hitting the bolt face at high speed, that does not have to mean high pressure. It could be oil on the brass, and honestly it could also be low pressure. A case that does not expand and stick to the chamber wall, will actual hit the bolt face hard enough to leave a mark. Like reading primers, brass flow into an ejector hole is not absolute. Leaving a mark is different that brass flow that leaves a high spot due to pressure forcing the brass to be pressed into the hole. It’s not a end all be all sign of pressure.
You need to know how much the shoulder has blown forward, that will take your comparator. One thing can do and will be a good indication of brass growth is to measure case capacity with water. That is another data point you will want any way. Put a spent primer in a prepped ready to shoot case and weigh it before and after filling. Then again after firing.
Something else to consider is only riding one horse at a time. Learning to load is complex, learning to gunsmith isn’t easy either. You didn’t mention checking headspace after installing the barrel, maybe I missed it. But one sure way to have a pressure problem is to think installing a barrel is just a matter of screwing it on tight.
You had a couple guys off phone time, if you don’t take up those offers, it would be a big mistake.
Keep staying safe
There are ways to get an ejector swipe, without flattening the primer. So when you see conflicting signs, every single piece of data is important. Headspace/cartridge fit is an important one. Is sounds like you have comparator headed your way and that will help sort that out.
The ejector marks are a result of the brass hitting the bolt face at high speed, that does not have to mean high pressure. It could be oil on the brass, and honestly it could also be low pressure. A case that does not expand and stick to the chamber wall, will actual hit the bolt face hard enough to leave a mark. Like reading primers, brass flow into an ejector hole is not absolute. Leaving a mark is different that brass flow that leaves a high spot due to pressure forcing the brass to be pressed into the hole. It’s not a end all be all sign of pressure.
You need to know how much the shoulder has blown forward, that will take your comparator. One thing can do and will be a good indication of brass growth is to measure case capacity with water. That is another data point you will want any way. Put a spent primer in a prepped ready to shoot case and weigh it before and after filling. Then again after firing.
Something else to consider is only riding one horse at a time. Learning to load is complex, learning to gunsmith isn’t easy either. You didn’t mention checking headspace after installing the barrel, maybe I missed it. But one sure way to have a pressure problem is to think installing a barrel is just a matter of screwing it on tight.
You had a couple guys off phone time, if you don’t take up those offers, it would be a big mistake.
Keep staying safe
Wow. Really dude?
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PLEASE TAKE MY ADVICE AND DISREGARD ALL POST OF THE REMINGTON 700 FLAWS!!
The primer is GENERALLY the primary indicator of excessive pressure!!! However, in your situation and combination of reloading components is unique!!! Take a look at post #61 again!!! It explains the phenomenon of what you are experiencing!!!! It is not the 700 firing pin but the thicker walls, base, and radius of your primer choice and BULLET SELECTION!!! I have had several 700s, and it probably is not the firing pin issue!!! I have seen this from finding max pressure loads for all my rifles!! Excessive pressure does some funny, and sometimes, unpredictable things!!!!
Advice from a long time Remington shooter, Retired Industrial Physicists, and +50 year reloader!!!!! Look at #61 Post AGAIN!!!
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bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
I respectfully disagree, primers are a poor way of measuring pressure.Theres better ways to measure it
Wayne
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
I keep searching and can't find N555 in 25CM load data.
WAYNE
Read post #61(it has the rest of the pressure signs except the 200 mark pre/post fire measurements)!! In post #73, I stated, generally the primer is the 1st indicator (that is visible)!!! And in the next sentence, it starts with "However"!!
I agree with recording the 200 mark with virgin brass or factory loads!! Used it for years!!! But after a few more tuned reloads, I quit!!! A waste of time at the bench for my type of shooting!!!
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
He’s in the ball park of a starting load, bullet length difference would be nice. Honestly I wouldn’t expect it to be a hot load.
Yeah!!! Between the thick walled, hot flash, mag primers; fast burning powder selection; and the physical properties of the long bearing surface solid copper bullet, it is a compounded over pressure components situation!!!
Those are not solid copper bullets!!! The volume of an equal weight cup and core bullet is much less than a solid copper bullet!!! And generally, the manufacturer will design a longer bearing surface!! Solid copper bullets require more pressure for engraving and over coming the additional frictional force!!!
Never use cup/core loading data or charts for solids!!!! Even lead bullets have different pressure requirements!!!
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
That’s not exactly true, and often completely false.
Most manufacturers include relief grooves to reduce bearing surface to less than cup and core. You need to look at the bullet he’s having problems with.
Don’t mistake starting pressure with peak.
His other load that people seem to be glossing over was 38.5 of H 4350. That load had heavy bolt lift with a mid range load.
Honestly there is just not enough information available because @edix does not have the proper tools to provide it yet. It’s just way to early to blame high pressure early on copper alloy vs cup and core.
Someone mentioned do you know the neck diameter of your chamber? You mentioned resizing the brass before loading, does this mean that you’re necking down 6.5 brass? That can thicken the neck, and potentially create too tight of a loaded round. Since you measured overall length, I assume that you have a caliper? What does a loaded round measure for neck diameter? Will a bullet slip into a fired case? Do you have a GO gauge? How did you set headspace when installing the barrel? Many important questions in order to help.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
It appears he’s running 25 creedmoor brass
Wayne
Attachments
No it means I took 25cm brass and ran it thru the resizer. Bad idea I'm learning.
Kids down so I can get some measurements.
Alpha brass
Neck
Brass that I have not touched. .283
unfired but loaded. .286
Fired .290
Yes I can place a bullet into a fired neck takes a little pressure to but not much.
Yes I have a Go gauge I used scotch tape for the No go.
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