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Nesika Model J

I’m looking for a copy of the tenon print for a Model J. Can’t seem to find one on the net and none of the companies that have superseded Nesika have a print either. Someone out there has got to have or know someone who might have a copy that’s willing to share with me. Any help in the matter would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Steve E.
De Oppresso Liber!
 
I’m looking for a copy of the tenon print for a Model J. Can’t seem to find one on the net and none of the companies that have superseded Nesika have a print either. Someone out there has got to have or know someone who might have a copy that’s willing to share with me. Any help in the matter would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Steve E.
De Oppresso Liber!
Try Chad Dixon at Longriflesinc.com
 
Do you need an actual print or just measurements? I have a bunch of J barrels.
 
Speedy posted this a long time ago

Chambering up a barrel for a Nesika-J is a very easy thing to do once somebody provides you with the proprer knowledge. When i was apprenticing as a Tool & Die Maker one of my instructors replied to one of my comments of him being lucky to know all he knew. He replied in his German accent "Luck my boy means L.aboring U.nder C.orrect Knowledge", and man was he ever right. Anyways now for the simple job of chambering a Nesika-J with no recoil lug:

1: Turn thread tenon down to a diameter of 1.057 - 1.058, for exactly 0.965 thousandths of an inch.

2: 0.965 exactly is very important since this is the headspace dimension of all Nesika-J actions, from the bolt face to the face of the receiver.

3: Now thread the barrel for an 18-pitch thread to whatever fit you desire. Make sure you lube your threads every time you test the barrel in the receiver.

4: Now chamber barrel with your favourite reamer, until the GO-Gage is flush with the back of the barrel tenon. Remember if your GO-Gage goes in below our 0.965 flush mark, your headspace will be off by that amount.

5: Finally, we cut the cone. With you compound set @ 29.5 to 30 degrees, slowly locate your cutting tool just inside the chamber.

Now draw it out until it just makes the slightest cut at the junction of the chamber and the back of the barrel. Now set up an indicator on your ways as to measure forward movement of your carriage towards the headstock and zero the indicator at that point.

Now by only moving the carriage forward @ 0.0250 increments at a time and doing the entire cutting with the compound we can cut the cone with no action needed.

(Note: Do not touch the Cross-slide at all during this operation. pretend it does not even exist on your lathe.)

Now with cutter on the inside of chamber move carriage forward 0.0250 cut from inside out, and return cutter back inside the chamber. Continue this process until you have reached a depth of 0.1350 of an inch and your done. polish cone and bevel the outside edge of the barrel and there you have it.
 
Speedy posted this a long time ago

Chambering up a barrel for a Nesika-J is a very easy thing to do once somebody provides you with the proprer knowledge. When i was apprenticing as a Tool & Die Maker one of my instructors replied to one of my comments of him being lucky to know all he knew. He replied in his German accent "Luck my boy means L.aboring U.nder C.orrect Knowledge", and man was he ever right. Anyways now for the simple job of chambering a Nesika-J with no recoil lug:

1: Turn thread tenon down to a diameter of 1.057 - 1.058, for exactly 0.965 thousandths of an inch.

2: 0.965 exactly is very important since this is the headspace dimension of all Nesika-J actions, from the bolt face to the face of the receiver.

3: Now thread the barrel for an 18-pitch thread to whatever fit you desire. Make sure you lube your threads every time you test the barrel in the receiver.

4: Now chamber barrel with your favourite reamer, until the GO-Gage is flush with the back of the barrel tenon. Remember if your GO-Gage goes in below our 0.965 flush mark, your headspace will be off by that amount.

5: Finally, we cut the cone. With you compound set @ 29.5 to 30 degrees, slowly locate your cutting tool just inside the chamber.

Now draw it out until it just makes the slightest cut at the junction of the chamber and the back of the barrel. Now set up an indicator on your ways as to measure forward movement of your carriage towards the headstock and zero the indicator at that point.

Now by only moving the carriage forward @ 0.0250 increments at a time and doing the entire cutting with the compound we can cut the cone with no action needed.

(Note: Do not touch the Cross-slide at all during this operation. pretend it does not even exist on your lathe.)

Now with cutter on the inside of chamber move carriage forward 0.0250 cut from inside out, and return cutter back inside the chamber. Continue this process until you have reached a depth of 0.1350 of an inch and your done. polish cone and bevel the outside edge of the barrel and there you have it.
This is gold, thank you!
 

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