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Neglect.

I picked up a used 22-250 last winter and decided to give it a good cleaning. It has 600 rounds down range all shot with reloader 15 according to the guy i bought it from. I couldnt even get a patch down the barrel at first. I scrubbed with boretech c4 and let it soak for a hour at a time for 2 days.patches came out clean after a good scrubbing but there was still dark grey streaks at the muzzle and with lookibg with a cheap bore scope down the barrel the first 8 inches are still solid black. I scrubbed with jb and kroil and it helped a bit but you can still see a buch of dark black at the base of the lands. What else could i do to get it out? I even soaked the barrel with kroil for 24 hours and it still isnt touching it. I dont want to use to much JB's since i have already made about 40-50 strokes with a loaded brush and kroil. Patches slide smooth now but i would like to get it all out.
 
I buy it direct from Hollands and have never been back ordered, but it's not like I buy but every couple of years. I buy two 8 oz at a time and keep refilling the small container. but my older factory Remington barrels are a PITA to clean. a pacnor, krieger or shilen barrel takes a little brushing and a handful of patches and they are clean.
 
I would Iosso the heck out of it and then inspect the first 10 inches and the crown to make sure the crown isn't rounded .
 
Remove the bbl from the action, plug the muzzle, fill with Kroil and let it soak for a week, then drain the Kroil and clean as you would a regular dirty bore. Yes, it really does work.:)...................generally.
 
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Here is a "last resort" cleaning method that will take the junk out. Understand that a barrel as bad as you are describing may not be salvageable and/or there is a high probability that you are not going to like what you see is left of the bore when you get the junk out...but here goes: this does work better if you remove the barrel but it can be done on the action. Definitely remove the stock. Warm the barrel with a propane torch to the point that it is hot enough you don't want to touch it, but you don't have to get it too hot. I mean, don't go so far that you might discolor the bluing. Spray ordinary oven cleaner down the bore, clamp it in a leather or wooden jaw vise and brush and patch it. Do this until nothing comes out but several clean patches and when it cools down oil it. Scope it again and if it looks okay or at least usable...give it a try. Of note, there is a cheap brand of oven cleaner out there that works as good as any, sorry, don't remember the name.

Edit; When I say you might not like what's left of the bore I mean this due to the abuse or neglect, not the use of this method. Oven cleaner will not hurt the bore, I clean non-stick anodized aluminum pans this same way.
 
A bronze brush and a strong bore cleaner. Brush it and let it sit for an hour, then repeating every hour. Also on the hour push a couple patches to get out the bulk mess out, scrub it with a tight wet patch and go at it with the brush again. It will come, just takes time and elbow grease.

Don't be surprised if the bore has erosion under the those stubborn fouling layers - IME
Donovan
 
He never shot moly out of it that he remembers. No its not a savage lol its a howa. I have used brass brushes with jb after letting kroil soak for 24hrs and then the same with a 24hr soak of boretech c4. It looks ok as of now. Going to try to shoot it tommorow and then hit it again when the barrel is warm with kroil and Iosso. Ill update when i get back.
 

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Looking at your photo I see lines in your grooves running at right angles to the bore indicating your bbl. is hammer forged. (more difficult to clean) I understand your desire to get the bore pristine. However, you may find the bbl will take up to 50 rounds to "settle in" after the thorough cleaning. With luck it may take less. ................ But don't be surprised if it takes 15 to 20rounds for accuracy to return. (if it had any to begin with) I've also found RL-15 to create a lot of hard carbon fouling in my rifles. I live with the fouling because of the accuracy I can achieve................ My barrels are all hand lapped so the carbon fouling is easier to clean than yours would be. ........ Try H-380 which is a well known accuracy powder for the 22-250.
 
Using a funnel and flexible tube pour boiling water down the bore and scrub with a fresh bronze brush. Rinse and repeat.

This method shifts hard carbon layers as good as any solvent. Patch out to dry then use good gun oil to preserve.
 
Shoot it , check accuracy . Clean more if accuracy isn't good . I see the machine marks in the grooves , meaning you have it pretty clean . If the interior of the barrel was blued ( assuming the barrel is blued ) , that's a possible cause of the dark area .
Have a friend with a Hawkeye borescope check it out before you go too far .
 
Shot it today and the first 10 shots were about a 2 inch group. It started shooting better and better and then by 30 rounds it was back to the normal 5 shots in .5" my velocity is about 30 fps slower than before. It definitely didnt foul as bad either. I dont know if the JB's helped that or it was a fluke.
 
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A screw on muzzle brake had carbon deposits inside it that I could not remove with a sharp screwdriver blade and much pressure. I heated it up in the oven, sprayed oven cleaner on it, let sit for a while and that carbon that was so stubborn came off with minor effort.
 

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