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Need your help with 6mm br

Greetings folks,
I am new to this site, I am new to rifle loading and newer to 6mm br. I am having a Krieger heavy barrel fitted to a Remington 700 action in hopes of being able to shoot the fleas of a P dog at about 1000 yards. All kidding aside I would be pleased to hear what dies you folks hold in high regard. I plan on trying to become involved in the 600 yard game. Also would use this piece if I am ever get lucky enough to get out to South Dakota for a P dog shoot. I plan on ordering some Lapua brass. From what I read this brass seems to be the top of the line. Being new to this, I would like to try to start out with the best I can afford. I have already blasted a gaping hole in my wallet in ordering a new NightForce 12-42x56. It sure took me a long time to be able to come up with enough money and then the will to get rid of it with one click of the mouse. Any other suggestions you may have to put me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help.
Have Fun,
buckshot
 
Gunamonth,
Thank you for the help. Out of over 100 views I would have thought there would have been a lot more help with the loading information. Did I ask an outlawed question???? Come on people. Where is your assistance. everyone started at some point...
Have Fun,
buckshot
 
I can't add anything to gunamonth's post. I use a Harrell's FL die and Wilson micrometer seater. This combo has served many BR and PPC shooters well for a long time.
 
The 6BR seems to be pretty easy to load for. I'am still doing it the "simple" way. And having a ball doing it! RCBS 6BR Full Length Sizer Die.,I bump the shoulder back with it and neck size) A RCBS .243 Compitition seater die. I'am not into compitition but I'am still learning. I"ve found out the my 6BR will out shoot me any day of the week!;)
You can spend as much $$$ as you want but we all have to start somewhere.
I might add,.272 no turn neck chamber, 1-8 twist barrel,Lapua brass and almost any bullet weight you would like to try. When you get done with all the bullet weight and powder charge combinations you might want to try something else. But so far, mine has kept me real busy!:D
 
Seating: Wilson Micrometer top die with arbor press. Next best--Redding Comp Die,Forster works as well--Redding is just a little easier to read the index marks).

For sizing, Harrell's is a GREAT choice in a bushing die. Or, you can:

1. Order FL die from Forster and have them hone the neck to your preferred diameter for about $12.

2. CH4D.com will take your fired brass and make a custom non-bushing die for you for about $80.00. Hornady will do the same thing, and they can give you a custom bushing die.
 
On the seater there are several good options. I like the feel of an arbor press style, plus I feel that they may have the best shot at consistent OAL with the higher neck tension that some powders "like". Wilson makes unchambered seaters in .22 and 6mm that you can have chambered with your reamer. Many years ago Wilson offered the service of custom fitting to your brass, if they still do, this is cheaper, and still gives good results. Another option is to have a seater of the same type scratch built. I believe that Steve Kostanich will do this for around $125. Related to this is owning your own reamer, that way your custom reloading dies will fit subsequent barrels in the same caliber. Although they have had good results as far as concentricity goes, friends have had some issues with consistency in OAL with the Redding dies. Maybe it is the operator, or the fact that they are using varmint bullets that come from more than one point up die. I don't know. I do know at least one very successful BR shooter that uses a Redding seater.
 
lynn said:
Moderator
What makes the Wilson micrometer top with a arbor press a better choice than the Redding?
What type of dies did Jackie Schmidt use in his evaluation.
Lynn

Jackie used Wilson Micrometer top hand die--I sent him mine to use.

In my experience run-out is less with Wilson--not much, but noticeable. Biggest difference is base to ogive measurement of seated round was more consistent. I measure ALL my loaded rounds base of case to ogive, AFTER seating bullets. Assuming I start with bullets sorted to < .001 variance in bullet base to ogive, I can pretty much hold to about .0017 with the Wilson, and with 95% of rounds I can hold to .001 and a tiny bit. Not so easy with the Redding.

Also, I get MUCH, MUCH better "feel" for seating bullet with the Wilson, PLUS I have the option of using the seating force dial indicator on my K&M press.

Honestly, I was skeptical about the benefits of the Wilson. Now I am a total believer. Plus hand dies give the option to seat bullets pretty much anywhere in the house. This proved nice in our unusual 30-degree nights in California,my loading bench is in the garage.)
 
ibbuckshot:

Here's my recommendation on dies, based on what you are going to use for a press:

With a standard press: Redding set #36317. This includes a full length bushing neck die,sizes the entire case, decaps and neck sizes with a bushing) and a Competition seating die. $114.35 from Sinclair. Add a couple of non-TiN coated neck sizing bushing for about $10.25 each and you're in biz for about $135 with all the dies you'll ever need...and precision ones, at that.

If you have, or want to use, an arbor press for seating: Redding #77317 full length bushing neck die,as described above) @ $42.50 and a Wilson #W6BRS non-micrometer seating die @$38.95. Again, prices are from Sinclair. Add two neck bushings for @10.25 and you end up with around $102.00 for everything, less an arbor press. The little K&M arbor presses run around $75 or so, I believe.

Lots of different ways to approach this, but the setups I've outlined have worked well with quite a few different 6BR's, including my own. Just make sure the 'smith you're using has a reamer spec'd for the Lapua brass and you'll be good to go. -Al
 
I want to thank you all for your input. Sometimes it gets a bit confusing when I try to pick out a set of dies. It's like being a kid in the candy store. I have an interest in all of it but I have to be serious in trying to put together what is really needed. I read about neck sizing. When would one full length size rather then neck size? What determines the need for the full length sizing. Thanks again.
Have Fun,
buckshot
 
I keep hearing about the K&M arbor press but can't find out anything about them ??? Can anyone give me directions to find several locations that sell the press??? Where can I obtain one at the best price??? Thank you,
Have Fun,
buckshot
 
OK, Guys,
The next question is where is the best price and place to buy the Lapua 6mm br brass. With the change in Washington I may try to obtain about 500 rounds.
buckshot
 
Ok, I just ordered 500 rounds of 6mm Br from Powder Valley. This way I have some left over after I screw some up !!! I also was abel speak with Ken at K&M learned some interesting information not to mention ordering an arbor press with the dial indicater. Next a question about the Redding dies. When ordering Redding dies, what does Category 1, 2 and 3 mean?? They have more pages full of dies-- enough to drive a novice nuts. OH, by the way, do any of you use a flash hole reamer, takes the flash hole out to .0625 so all are uniform. Makes sense.
Have fun,
buckshot
 
ibbuckshot said:
Ok, I just ordered 500 rounds of 6mm Br from Powder Valley. This way I have some left over after I screw some up !!! I also was abel speak with Ken at K&M learned some interesting information not to mention ordering an arbor press with the dial indicater. Next a question about the Redding dies. When ordering Redding dies, what does Category 1, 2 and 3 mean?? They have more pages full of dies-- enough to drive a novice nuts. OH, by the way, do any of you use a flash hole reamer, takes the flash hole out to .0625 so all are uniform. Makes sense.

On 6BR brass, inspect the flash holes, and LIGHTLY debur cases if there is an obstruction. Otherwise, leave them alone. Don't attempt to chamfer the flash hole where it enters the powder chamber.

We like the K&M tool flash-hole tool for large primer pockets. But most examples we've seen of his small flash hole tool have a cutter tip that is oversize in diameter and will enlarge the Flashhole to about .066+. The Sinclair tool takes the hole to .0625. The diameter from the factory is 1.5mm, roughly .059.

The current 6.5x47 Lapua brass needs to be deburred.
 
Where would be the best place to purchase the Wilson dies? It seems that the seating die is the only one used. With micrometer or not micrometer that is the question. I am thinking of obtaining dies for my 22-250 and 17 Remington. I guess the same system is used for the 22 and 17 also. I have to obtain a funnel for a 17 Remington. Anyone know who has the 17 powder funnel/scale pan? Thanks again.
Have Fun,
buckshot
 

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