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Need tooling advice (Hornady 6 Creedmoor brass)

Got a new 6 Creedmoor rifle on the way for PRS style matches. For the past year I've been reloading my wife's 6 Creedmoor ammo using Hornady 6 Creedmoor brass and the Hornady 6 Creedmoor die set. It shoots pretty damn well (.333 MOA 5-shot group at 320 yards last week with 1700 rounds down the barrel!)

What I need to know is if Hornady 6 Creedmoor brass has acceptable neck tension consistency to begin with or if I should start doing something extra. I just received 1000 cases for us to use for the next few seasons.

It would seem these are my options:

1. Get a second Hornady die set and call it a day
2. Get the Redding 6 Creedmoor die set because it for some reason is better?
3. Get the Whidden die set so I can use a bushing type die (and invest in neck turning tooling)
4. Get the Whidden die set, ditch the bushing and expander and pair it with a custom Lee Collet die to set neck tension (but that may require getting a new collet die when I re barrel)
5. Get the Whidden non-bushing sizer and enjoy a seater with a micrometer.

I use Redding comp shell holders to control shoulder bump to .002". I use an Fx-120i scale for precise powder metering. I plan to anneal after every firing. I chrono ammo with a Magnetospeed. I'm after consistency required for tactical matches. Sometimes it's paper 1" dot at 200 yards, or 36" steel at 1760.

So bottom line, what is the practical thing to do? I am not even in the top 50% at regional matches yet but I want to make sure I'm not dropping the ball with my reloading strategy. We are shooting GAP and Mausingfield rifles so it would be a shame to be doing something ignorant here.

Thanks!
Jeff
 
Did you buy 1000 new brass from GAP ? Treat the new brass like it say's in this article http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/6mmbr-loading-for-newbies/ Get the Whidden die with the bushing, This has nothing to with neck turning, neck turning has to do with your chamber size in relationship to your loaded round, there needs to be room enough to release the bullet from the case and or getting a uniform neck wall thickness, nothing you need to do for PRS type matches. The bushing lets you control your neck tension by not over sizing it. Measure a loaded case at the neck with the bullet seated you are going to shoot, pick a bushing 3 thousands smaller, you could run less in a single shot, but with loaded rounds in your mag, I would be afraid if you run less than three thou bullets might move under recoil. I take the decapping rod with the expander out of my sizing die, and use a stand alone decapping die. PM me if you want. Jon
 
+++++ on the Whidden Dies for your 6Creedmoor. I'm running Hornady brass from GAP in my rifle with 105 Hybrids. I'm using the 0.269" bushing with my brass. 41.5g H4350 R 9 1/2 primers 3125fps from 26" Bartlein. I ran primer tests with CCI, and Federal and for whatever reason the Remington gave me the best numbers and accuracy. I've had no issues with loose primer pockets that some claim from their Hornady brass in either my 6.5 or the 6....finally retired a batch of 6.5 Creedmoor brass after 10+ reloads and have yet to toss a 6 case. Follow the directions with the Whidden dies on set up for the size die and use their supplied bump gauge to get the right amount of sizing. I have 7 sets of their dies now and swear by them.
 
The Whidden dies come with an expander ball to retain decap pin and a non-expander retainer as well....I run the non-expander
 
I just received my Whidden die set. I also opted to get the expander ball pack for even more control on neck tension if using a bushing in the sizing die. I'm leaning towards ordering a Lee collet die after I have some fired cases and using it instead of a neck bushing. The sizing die will basically just be a body die.. That technique is working well for members in my club. I'll need to acquire a concentircity gauge to see how runout compares between using the collet die vs a busing in the sizing die.

For new Hornady brass, what do you guys do before first firing? I'll check the flash holes. Does this brass typically need the pockets uniformed?
 
Treadstone said:
Got a new 6 Creedmoor rifle on the way for PRS style matches. For the past year I've been reloading my wife's 6 Creedmoor ammo using Hornady 6 Creedmoor brass and the Hornady 6 Creedmoor die set. It shoots pretty damn well (.333 MOA 5-shot group at 320 yards last week with 1700 rounds down the barrel!)

What I need to know is if Hornady 6 Creedmoor brass has acceptable neck tension consistency to begin with or if I should start doing something extra. I just received 1000 cases for us to use for the next few seasons.

It would seem these are my options:

1. Get a second Hornady die set and call it a day
2. Get the Redding 6 Creedmoor die set because it for some reason is better?
3. Get the Whidden die set so I can use a bushing type die (and invest in neck turning tooling)
4. Get the Whidden die set, ditch the bushing and expander and pair it with a custom Lee Collet die to set neck tension (but that may require getting a new collet die when I re barrel)
5. Get the Whidden non-bushing sizer and enjoy a seater with a micrometer.

I use Redding comp shell holders to control shoulder bump to .002". I use an Fx-120i scale for precise powder metering. I plan to anneal after every firing. I chrono ammo with a Magnetospeed. I'm after consistency required for tactical matches. Sometimes it's paper 1" dot at 200 yards, or 36" steel at 1760.

So bottom line, what is the practical thing to do? I am not even in the top 50% at regional matches yet but I want to make sure I'm not dropping the ball with my reloading strategy. We are shooting GAP and Mausingfield rifles so it would be a shame to be doing something ignorant here.

Thanks!
Jeff
I have 9 firings on my Hornady brass and the only time it's been annealed is when Hornady made them, I never touched the flash holes or primer pockets, they're all good, just shot a .515" group at 300yds 3 weeks ago with DTACs. I use Hornady 'Custom' dies made by Ben at Hornady, 270 bushing.
 
Treadstone said:
I just received my Whidden die set. I also opted to get the expander ball pack for even more control on neck tension if using a bushing in the sizing die. I'm leaning towards ordering a Lee collet die after I have some fired cases and using it instead of a neck bushing. The sizing die will basically just be a body die.. That technique is working well for members in my club. I'll need to acquire a concentircity gauge to see how runout compares between using the collet die vs a busing in the sizing die.

For new Hornady brass, what do you guys do before first firing? I'll check the flash holes. Does this brass typically need the pockets uniformed?
Run it through the sizing die with 270 bushing, prime, charge, seat, shoot. OK, I do chamfer the mouth, too.
 

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