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Need to replace the ISS firing pin and spring

Any comments would be appreciated.

1. Tubb speedlock, Holland's, or Gre-Tan spring and pin
2. Anyone use the Callahan cocking piece outa Midway?
3. I have the regular shroud, do I need anything else?
4. Is it possible that it might not need timing, if so how can I tell?

Thanks!
 
It seems like good timing calls for the gap on the front side of the bolt handle to be about .010 in the closed position...

I measured about .035,with my calipers because my feeler gauges are outside in storage and it's cold out there!).

Is it just bad for accuracy or is this dangerous?

My action was "Blueprinted" and all that jazz when I had him put on a nice Krieger and Badger bolt handle and muzzle brake. Trigger was "adjusted" but it still isn't good enough.

I knew it was better to just build on a custom but I had this stainless 700 action, and I could do it in stages see... and it would be a few hundred cheaper...

I'm sorry I didn't listen to all the sage advice. I should have left that nice little sporter alone, now that I'm putting in the jewel trigger, well, the only thing left is the action.

If your a newb like me and your thinking about doing it in stages... DON'T!

YMMV
 
I've been down that path. My first two "custom" guns were redone 700s. One had been my Dad's, so that one was a given, the other one I bought so cheap that after selling off all the bits and pieces I only had about $100 into it. I had just started on my third when my first BAT SV arrived. I sold that rifle before I went any further and haven't even looked at a used 700 since.

I can't help with the timing more than to just say it's not just where the bolt handle lines up. Other than commiserating, I'll throw in my recommendation for the Gre-Tan firing pin assembly. Depending on the cartridge and the current state of your firing pin hole, you might want to consider having the firing pin bushed also.
 

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