Need some help with picking a scope please

[BarnDweller]

I have a Vortex 25 power. and a Arkin 35 power First Focal Plane scopes. I am old, my eyes are not great. I just have a hard time seeing the Reticle in the center unless I am at max mag. I just talked with Vortex and they are suggesting a Second Plane Scope because the center of the reticle is visible at all times.

I have just joined a Beautiful Gun Club in Howell Mi and I can shoot to 500 yards. I can see and hit the steel at 500 yards (I think about 30 inches) but last week I took some paper targets and I just can not see the 6 inch targets. I can see the target I just can not see where I am aiming at the target.

I am willing to buy another scope to test this idea out, Can anyone give me a suggestion on a Second Focal Plane Scope with a 34mm tube (have a great one piece mount) and exposed turrets?

I am not a hunter anymore and I normally just shoot off a bench.

Thanks for any help people send my way.

Del McCord

 

[Jr solocam]

What is your budget?

 

[Ranger188]

With a FFP scope as you increase the mag. the image and reticle get bigger together.
In a SFP scope, the image gets bigger but the reticle stays the same
or seems to get smaller relative to the size of the target as you turn up the mag.
You need to look through one to make sure either one will work for you at this point.
I'm sure someone at the range will let you look through their scope. Just ask.

 

[BarnDweller]

What is your budget?

I am willing to spend up to 1000$ but would rather spend around 500$

 

[BarnDweller]

With a FFP scope as you increase the mag. the image and reticle get bigger together.
In a SFP scope, the image gets bigger but the reticle stays the same
or seems to get smaller relative to the size of the target as you turn up the mag.
You need to look through one to make sure either one will work for you at this point.
I'm sure someone at the range will let you look through their scope. Just ask.

I will try to. I am new to this range so I really don't know anyone there yet.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

The 34 mm tube is probably a no go with your budget allowance.

 

[Ccrider]

Try to find a used Delta Stryker 5-50. You will not be disappointed.

 

[Pinetreebbs]

Just in case, have you checked the reticle focus?

 

[Jr solocam]

I would look into a used Meopta, Minox, higher end Bushnell or IOR. It will be challenging to get both the glass quality and magnification you need, but not impossible. Best wishes.

 

[Liven The Dream]

1-800 Lance XXX Sightron Sale .

 

[BarnDweller]

The 34 mm tube is probably a no go with your budget allowance.

You may be correct, that is what I paid for the vortex that I had on it. Its in for service because the parallax will not turn without force it is a 34 mm tube. I paid 200$ for the one piece rings for it, would like to use it. The more I watch You Tube videos I think I am looking for a second focal plane scope I do know that.

The vortex is ok when mag is high but when I turn it down the dot disappears. from what I have watched I think this is a common problem with older guys like me.

If I KNEW it would work I would be willing to pay whatever I had to I guess.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

You may be correct, that is what I paid for the vortex that I had on it. Its in for service because the parallax will not turn without force it is a 34 mm tube. I paid 200$ for the one piece rings for it, would like to use it. The more I watch You Tube videos I think I am looking for a second focal plane scope I do know that.

The vortex is ok when mag is high but when I turn it down the dot disappears. from what I have watched I think this is a common problem with older guys like me.

If I KNEW it would work I would be willing to pay whatever I had to I guess.

Yes Sir. I just meant the nicer 34mm tubes in like the Trigicon’s, NF, high end Sightrons are priced up there.
A good 30 mm tube Sightron III 10-50x60 with a target dot reticule might be worth looking through.

 

[BarnDweller]

Thanks to everyone that that have helped me with information.

I found a very inexpensive scope to try. I do not know if I will leave it on the rifle but I have others that I can use it on. I ordered a

SIG SAUER Tango-SPR 6-24x52mm 30mm Tube Second Focal Plane/SFP/F2 Shockproof Waterproof Fogproof Tactical Riflescope | MOA BDC-1 Reticle, Flip-Back Caps & Throw Lever Included, SOTS46000​

Its a second focal plane scope so I will at least get a chance to see the difference for myself. When I joined the club there was a safety briefing and the head guy made a comment about people using scopes with way more mag than necessary. I used to turn the scope all the way up just so I could see the center dot. He said turn down the mag. I tried it when I shot my certification. I hit the target every shot. This scope only cost 228 on Amazon and it comes with the mount. I can not believe it will be that good at that price. If its junk I will send it back to Amazon. Its a Sig Sauer so hopefully its ok.

Thanks again for the help everyone!

 

[ogre1911]

If you never plan to shoot with the target in a shadow or before sunrise the

ARES ETR GEN2 UHD 15-60×56 ABLR3 SFP IR MOA is a solid option for the high end of your budget.​

Great reticle and good glass

 

[ELR LVR]

I have a Vortex 25 power. and a Arkin 35 power First Focal Plane scopes. I am old, my eyes are not great. I just have a hard time seeing the Reticle in the center unless I am at max mag. I just talked with Vortex and they are suggesting a Second Plane Scope because the center of the reticle is visible at all times.

I have just joined a Beautiful Gun Club in Howell Mi and I can shoot to 500 yards. I can see and hit the steel at 500 yards (I think about 30 inches) but last week I took some paper targets and I just can not see the 6 inch targets. I can see the target I just can not see where I am aiming at the target.

I am willing to buy another scope to test this idea out, Can anyone give me a suggestion on a Second Focal Plane Scope with a 34mm tube (have a great one piece mount) and exposed turrets?

I am not a hunter anymore and I normally just shoot off a bench.

Thanks for any help people send my way.

Del McCord

For 500 yds, why do you feel you need a 34mm tube?
I have a 30mm Bushnell Tactical Mildot and a Kahles 34mm
The 30mm Bushnell is such high Japan Quality it is not lacking behind the $2000 higher price tage of the Kahles
The Kahles just has much better ergo, user friendly features.
30mm is enough with quality glass for that range
Being open to a quality 30mm will open your options up more as well as fit your price budget better
--------------
Anyway
Sightron SIII
Japan Made!!!! Bushnell (Some newer Bushnells like the "Forge are not Japan"
I only trust Japan, even though some Phillipines scopes are .......decent (such as Burris)
Vintage Bausch Lomb (will be 1 inch tube but the glass is above Leupold/ Hubble telescope leftovers)
If interested in a 6-24x B&L let me know
---------------
I would highly look at/ look through a Nightforce SHV Scope
Very high quality glass for its money
---------------
The Arkens are decent, think of them as a test mule for the price range scope
They might break, they might not track well later but theyre cheap enough you can just buy another one 3or 4 years down the road if you want a test mule before soaking $3k or more into what you know you really want.
The Arken Glass is Nice though
-----------------
Primary Arms copes I have looked through and used are Great
-----------------
Tract Torric - Bad Ass & Schott Glass (Top Teir Euro) for half the price of Swarovski
-----------------
The more money you spend, the better the glass and the easier it is on the eyes, less eye fatigue, easier eye relief
Makes "Getting behind the scope" soooooo very nice" (A Kahles is like that, so easy to simply spot anything at any yardage even 2000 yds quickly, they are on par with Schmidt & Bender PM II)
Glass is graded just like diamonds at Debeers
Clarity, Quality, Contrast, Inclusions etc then priced accordingly for the teir of scope it is being used for
So you will not get a $500 1 Karat perfect diamond
Same as you will not get $3000 worth of glass for $500
How long you want the scope to last?
Brass internals vs Steel and tungsten?
Kahles = Steel & Tungsten, Lifetime
(Have you ever had a doorknob wear out and get loose internally?
Brass
-----------------
Lastly
Meopta Great Value and they grind their own glass
Tough choices man, its hard to select just one
Look through them in low light conditions at the yardage you will shoot
That will give you a definite answer
Thats what led me to get out of my $700 firm price trap for a scope and go all the way with a Kahles
I was comparing NF SHV, Steiner, Kahles and there was a definite big step up in difference.
However, the SHV is nice crisp and clear with good clarity and contrast.
----------------
It is a one time forever purchase, and once doing so, you will NOT regret letting go of your
hard earned long saved up cash if you shoot often at all, in trade for a lifetime of Dependable Joy.
(Forget warranties)
Instead, reframe your mentality to - Buy the scope that won't break to begin with - is my opinion.
Do not compare scopes inside the store, (The lights are catered to sell scopes, and even cheap $200 scopes look good inside the store with bright fluorescent blue spectrum lighting (like a POS BSA)
Avoid Nikon - No product support any longer

 

[Ranger188]

I hope it works out for you.
Thing with scopes is, usually you get what you pay for.
At $228 I can't imagine the glass is very good and you want good glass.
Bad glass can look distorted and never look really in focus.
Everyone eyes see through a scope differently.
We can suggest a scope but it might not fit your budget or what your eyes like.
Most of us have gone through this process of buying scopes (many scopes)
to settle on the one(s) that work for us.
You'll have to figure it this out for yourself.

 

[ELR LVR]

I hope it works out for you.
Thing with scopes is, usually you get what you pay for.
At $228 I can't imagine the glass is very good and you want good glass.
Bad glass can look distorted and never look really in focus.
Everyone eyes see through a scope differently.
We can suggest a scope but it might not fit your budget or what your eyes like.
Most of us have gone through this process of buying scopes (many scopes)
to settle on the one(s) that work for us.
You'll have to figure it this out for yourself.

Good advice here and truthful wisdom
---Bad Glass =
---does not have the Red/Green/Blue light spectrums all lined up and focused at your pupil
(which gives a constant always fuzzy image,
Some will also half ass the precision/quality of the parallax mechanism)
I like the older 720 degree front Objective parallax of the Sightrons for this reason
I really wish scope makers would go back to this as opposed to the quick focus thing

 

[Lead Slanger]

The one thing I would recommend is, whatever scope you are interested in, go to that company's website and look up the reticle subtensions for that scope. Some scopes have really fine hash marks/crosshairs and are harder to see. You can compare them to the reticles that you have in your current scopes and it will give you a good idea of how well you'll be able to see the crosshairs in the new scope.

 

[dusterdave173]

A note
The double dot reticle in the Nightforce 12-42 is .187 dot size Most dots in most other SFP scopes are half that size or less It does make a diff--The Athlon mentioned is excellent glass but that dot is a pin prick compared to the NF Look through one if you can
I agree with pinetreebbs reticle focus is Critical--check that before anything else
Good luck

 

[284winner]

High magnification isn't required for 500 yards. 15X is plenty. Lots of options out there for 30mm/15X scopes. Lots of good info from members here. Listen to these guys and research. You'll find what works best