Need softer springs for my Bald Eagle rest

[Linko]

Anyone change the springs to softer ones on their bad eagle rest? I have been looking for some. Like to make adjustments easier.

 

[LHSmith]

Anyone change the springs to softer ones on their bad eagle rest? I have been looking for some. Like to make adjustments easier.

Is this for the cable drive model?
I have two original Bald Eagles built in Lock Haven. I never found the need to change springs, nor do I know fellow BR shooters complaining about hard adjustments. It was routine, however, to expect to tear them down at the end of each season and clean and re-lube the plates. These original rests did not have cable drive (other than a proto-type or two). If someone could get the cable drive to work without ANY backlash- I can see they would offer quicker POA changes....but no one has put forth a BR usable cable drive operated rest. Every season skilled shooters who still use original BE windage rests win matches despite competing against those using high dollar coaxial rests. If cable drive adjustment was viable, why didn't Hart or Sinclair offer one to their windage rests after all these years?

 

[Hntndad]

Linko. The "problem" with the cable is not in the springs but in the cable itself. The cable is not stiff enough to overcome the resistance of the springs and contact between the plates. Remove the cable and use the knob at the adjustment screw and the windage adjusts easily and smoothly. I may try using 1/2 wide thin plate. Drill a hole and mount under the bearing, Bend A couple of angles to bring it up to the beginning of the cable and make it long enough to support the cable out to the bend. Couple of tie zip straps to mount. That should keep the cable from wipping back and forth. If that doesn't work. Throw the cable in the trash and move the adjustment knob to the top.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Lighter springs cause it to kinda jump when you move it toward the lighter side- unloading the springs. The only way to make a new age bald eagle competitive is to remove the cable and maybe even put stronger springs in. They can be bought from mcmaster carr just measure your existing ones.

 

[1newmexkid]

Linko. The "problem" with the cable is not in the springs but in the cable itself. The cable is not stiff enough to overcome the resistance of the springs and contact between the plates. Remove the cable and use the knob at the adjustment screw and the windage adjusts easily and smoothly. I may try using 1/2 wide thin plate. Drill a hole and mount under the bearing, Bend A couple of angles to bring it up to the beginning of the cable and make it long enough to support the cable out to the bend. Couple of tie zip straps to mount. That should keep the cable from wipping back and forth. If that doesn't work. Throw the cable in the trash and move the adjustment knob to the top.

So I'm looking at BE 1006. Is that green cable the one that you are talking about?

 

[savagedasher]

I put softer spring in mine and smoothed up the slides . Lapped the adjusting bolt put a hard center I the rest for the adjusting bolt to center on. Put a small sand bag on the cable. It's ever bit as good as my expensive rest .
Larry

 

[Mozella]

Mine was very jumpy so I took it apart and put some lapping compound on the sliding parts. I slid it right to left a few hundred times and then cleaned out the grit, switched to fine polishing compound, cleaned again, lubricated the sliding parts, cleaned and lubricated the cable, and installed lighter springs. Springs are available at your local hardware store or via the Internet.

Now it works smoothly without any jitter when trying to make fine adjustments with the cable adjuster.

 

[savagedasher]

Mine was very jumpy so I took it apart and put some lapping compound on the sliding parts. I slid it right to left a few hundred times and then cleaned out the grit, switched to find polishing compound, cleaned again, lubricated the sliding parts, cleaned and lubricated the cable, and installed lighter springs. Springs are available at your local hardware store or via the Internet.

Now it works smoothly without any jitter when trying to make fine adjustments with the cable adjuster.

I got mine from a transmissions shop . Along with a bushing for the adjusting bolt to turn on . Smooth as silk now . I can move it a full range of adjustment with out the spring stacking . larry

 

[Linko]

yes 1newmexkid, that is the rest I have with the cable.

so the recommendations are to try and stiffen the cable from jumping around or remove it all together.

 

[Linko]

Is this for the cable drive model?
I have two original Bald Eagles built in Lock Haven. I never found the need to change springs, nor do I know fellow BR shooters complaining about hard adjustments. It was routine, however, to expect to tear them down at the end of each season and clean and re-lube the plates. These original rests did not have cable drive (other than a proto-type or two). If someone could get the cable drive to work without ANY backlash- I can see they would offer quicker POA changes....but no one has put forth a BR usable cable drive operated rest. Every season skilled shooters who still use original BE windage rests win matches despite competing against those using high dollar coaxial rests. If cable drive adjustment was viable, why didn't Hart or Sinclair offer one to their windage rests after all these years?

Yes mine has the cable. I guess I am trying to fix a cable setup that isnt a good idea in the first place.

 

[savagedasher]

Yes mine has the cable. I guess I am trying to fix a cable setup that isnt a good idea in the first place.

The reason the cable jumps is from the pressure it takes to turn the The adjustment . I changed the spring to softer and made ever thing move easy . Now with a small sand bag on the cable .It works without jumping. Larry

 

[Hntndad]

I wouldn't say it's not a good idea. No sir. I actually like the idea. I like the placement of the adjustment being closer. It's just with the cable as is, it's not very effective. Those cables are available through McMaster. In order to have one to overcome the the resistance of the setup, your looking at a much higher cost. Over $100 for a cable with higher torque. My humble guess is that in order for the existing cable to work very smoothly and effortlessly you have to a) reduce friction/tension b) increase rigidity/support of the cable itself c) both!
I'm just afraid to put lighter springs in. How could that effect the stableness of the platform during firing?

 

[savagedasher]

I wouldn't say it's not a good idea. No sir. I actually like the idea. I like the placement of the adjustment being closer. It's just with the cable as is, it's not very effective. Those cables are available through McMaster. In order to have one to overcome the the resistance of the setup, your looking at a much higher cost. Over $100 for a cable with higher torque. My humble guess is that in order for the existing cable to work very smoothly and effortlessly you have to a) reduce friction/tension b) increase rigidity/support of the cable itself c) both!
I'm just afraid to put lighter springs in. How could that effect the stableness of the platform during firing?

Mine work great . I shoot free recoil . If I have my back bag set right I can push the gun to the stop and shoot . Larry

 

[Hntndad]

That's good to know. I appreciate that Larry.

 

[RAFII]

Has anyone "upgraded" an older model Bald Eagle rest with a knob-cable windage setup?
I have thought about it, rather than buying a new one.

What parts would you need? Or part numbers from McMasters?

Richard

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have seen one of the real bald eagle cable prototype. It had a way better cable im guessing usa made and expensive. The new rests just kinda resemble bills design and knowing him id bet it came right out of msc or mcmaster carr