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need help finding right scope base for Savage 12 LRP

I just bought a Savage 12 LRP in 6.5 Creedmoore and I want a 20 MOA one piece picatinny rail for it. I bought one from Cabelas' but it has some sort of partition on it so it does not fit. I really want to shoot this rifle this weekend. Getting the right mount is important, but getting one that will work right now is as important. What I am saying is that I don't mind buying a less expensive one right now and switching to a better one later because I doubt I will find a Badger Ordinance locally but I might find a weaver or EGW.
 
EGW will work; personally I'd recommend Farrell or Nghtforce. Pass on the Weaver, as even their 'tactical' stuff I've seen was not Picatinny, but Weaver pattern. Looks similar, but the two don't necessarily play nice together. Save yourself some grief and get Picatinny from the start.
 
I just bought a Savage 12 LRP in 6.5 Creedmoore and I want a 20 MOA one piece picatinny rail for it. I bought one from Cabelas' but it has some sort of partition on it so it does not fit. ................ snip......
I'm guessing here, but when you say "partition" are you talking about a small boss on the underside of the rail designed to index into some sort of milled recess on the receiver? If your receiver is like my Model 12, there is no recess so the rail won't fit flush. The answer is to break out your Dremel tool, put a ball grinder on it, and remove the little boss on the aluminum rail. It only takes a few seconds, and then you can screw down the rail on the receiver so that it sits flush as it should. Don't worry about not being a skilled machinist. Unless you're really bad with your hands, your work won't show.
 
I'm guessing here, but when you say "partition" are you talking about a small boss on the underside of the rail designed to index into some sort of milled recess on the receiver? If your receiver is like my Model 12, there is no recess so the rail won't fit flush. The answer is to break out your Dremel tool, put a ball grinder on it, and remove the little boss on the aluminum rail. It only takes a few seconds, and then you can screw down the rail on the receiver so that it sits flush as it should. Don't worry about not being a skilled machinist. Unless you're really bad with your hands, your work won't show.
Thank you Mozella, I was thinking about doing just that but I didn't want to ruin a $50 mount if it wasn't going to work. It sounds like that is what I am going to end up doing at this point. Now I just have to find my dremel tool.
 
I'm guessing here, but when you say "partition" are you talking about a small boss on the underside of the rail designed to index into some sort of milled recess on the receiver? If your receiver is like my Model 12, there is no recess so the rail won't fit flush. The answer is to break out your Dremel tool, put a ball grinder on it, and remove the little boss on the aluminum rail. It only takes a few seconds, and then you can screw down the rail on the receiver so that it sits flush as it should. Don't worry about not being a skilled machinist. Unless you're really bad with your hands, your work won't show.



This is what I would do.
 
I'm guessing here, but when you say "partition" are you talking about a small boss on the underside of the rail designed to index into some sort of milled recess on the receiver? If your receiver is like my Model 12, there is no recess so the rail won't fit flush. The answer is to break out your Dremel tool, put a ball grinder on it, and remove the little boss on the aluminum rail. It only takes a few seconds, and then you can screw down the rail on the receiver so that it sits flush as it should. Don't worry about not being a skilled machinist. Unless you're really bad with your hands, your work won't show.

I've done this to several steel TPS bases that had that protrusion. I just used a bench grinder. No worries, it's child play
 
Be sure to use the smallest in length screw that should be provided in the forward (muzzle) end of the rail. If all four are the same length you have to shorten one. Look in the forward hole and you can see your barrel threads. No short screw and you will pin the barrel with the long one damaging the threads.
 
EGW is perfect for your application. I've used them on Savage actions, and always did well.
Good Company to deal with, too!

Quakertown, Pa. USA
George has been at it for about 30 yrs, with a highly skilled crew, and equip
 
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Weaver 20 moa is what I've been using lately for my Savages and R700. USA made and has a integral recoil lug/shoulder. The fit is 110% perfect.
 

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