Need F-Class build input

[swd]

And a 700 sitting in a heavy tang stock.

 

[Bc'z]

Huge difference for sure

 

[Falfan2017]

I don’t know what your front rest situation looks like right now but you should try to borrow and try somebody’s Sinclair comp before dropping big bucks on a neo or Farley. Might just find the fine tuning is easier on a knob rest and it will save you 1000$.

 

[David Christian]

I'm in the early stages of planning an F-class build. I've never done anything like this before - I've screwed together a few AR-15s, but that's it.

I'll be shooting at the club level in my state, mostly at 600 yards.

Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor. I plan on sticking with 6.5CM for the near future since I'm already invested in bullets, brass, and dies. I know a 6mm is the more traditional approach.

Action: Bighorn TL3 Right Bolt, Left Port, Single Shot, Long Action. I know 6.5CM is a SA cartridge. Both the manufacturer and my gunsmith said it'd work fine and having the long action will allow me to re-barrel for .284 if/when the time comes. TL3 would allow me to change the bolt head if I wanted to re-barrel to a magnum. Bighorn is local to me, so I'd like to support a local company.

Barrel: Brux, Bartlein, Krieger, Criterion, Shilen... I'm undecided. My gunsmith said any of the top names will work. He just wants a contoured blank and will chamber and thread it. I'm anticipating width at muzzle will be around 1.250" +/- 0.150". 28"-30" in total length.

Trigger: Bix'n Andy, Jewell... open to suggestions here.

Stock: Stocky's IBS w/ aluminum AccuBlock, McMillan F-Class or Kestros, GRS X-Eater... open to suggestions here

Scope: Vortex Golden Eagle

Regarding stocks, that's my biggest source of uncertainty. The IBS has a slightly angle to the toe (i.e., it's not parallel). The AccuBlock looks interesting, not sure if it's a gimmick. The McMillan stocks are well known and are a safe choice. I'll probably check the boxes for adjustable comb and LOP. The GRS looks sexy and has a great bunch of features but I'm not sure if it comes inletted for my action (R700 LA single shot).

What do you think? Am I in the ballpark for something that'll work or am I playing ice hockey on a soccer pitch?

@strat81, I went down the 6.5 CM for my first season shooting f-class for the same reason as you—I already had the brass, bullets and dies. At MR I could hold my own and placed well at several matches. However, I wish I would have listened to those that told me to immediately skip to the .284. Here we are a season later and I now shoot 2 different .284’s and am actively building a 300 WSM. Why? I am no longer giving away points at LR using an inferior cartridge. IMHO, I would sell the brass, bullets and dies and go with the .284. if you have an eye towards growing in the sport, you might want to start with the right chambering.

 

[strat81]

Hi Strat, do you plan to shoot 1,000 Yards? Do you already own the long action? If you plan to shoot at 1,000 yards, I'd bite the bullet and chamber for a 284 WIN. This way, you start with the right cartridge for BOTH mid-range and long-range. Everyone is using a short action. So, if you have not yet purchased the action, get a short action. Nothing wrong with a Bighorn, but I'd suggest looking at a Defiance or Borden instead. Can't go wrong with a McMillan Kestros stock: you pick the flavor.

Regards,
Scott

Hi Scott!
No 1,000 yard shooting in the cards at the moment. I'm still learning the ropes at 600. I started last year with a Ruger Predator and Hornady American Gunner and finished this year with a Tikka CTR and hand loads. I believe Alliance, NE and Lexington, NE have ranges that go out to 1k so maybe in a few years.

I don't own any of the parts for the build yet.

I'm frustrated as I can't find a consensus on what length action to use with a 284. I know it was designed as a SA cartridge and that if you use shorter bullets, it works fine. But there are posts indicating there are ejection issues if you run 180-class bullets in a SA and those folks indicate a LA cures that problem. OTOH, I found a post by Erik Cortina that says 284 in a SA is fine.

-Rich

 

[strat81]

If I skip the 6.5CM...

What does a 300WSM get me over a 284Win? And what am I giving up by going to 300WSM?

@284 Husker do you have any input? Gehrig has me drinking the 284 Kool Aid.

 

[Scott Harris]

Hi Scott!
No 1,000 yard shooting in the cards at the moment. I'm still learning the ropes at 600. I started last year with a Ruger Predator and Hornady American Gunner and finished this year with a Tikka CTR and hand loads. I believe Alliance, NE and Lexington, NE have ranges that go out to 1k so maybe in a few years.

I don't own any of the parts for the build yet.

I'm frustrated as I can't find a consensus on what length action to use with a 284. I know it was designed as a SA cartridge and that if you use shorter bullets, it works fine. But there are posts indicating there are ejection issues if you run 180-class bullets in a SA and those folks indicate a LA cures that problem. OTOH, I found a post by Erik Cortina that says 284 in a SA is fine.

-Rich

If the action is strictly for F-class, then a short action is the way to go. It is a single shot discipline: no magazine issues to worry about. Yes, ejecting a loaded 284 round with long bullets can be an issue with a target short action. We have to remove our bolt to do so. But, the speed advantage of a short action is why virtually all F-class shooters use one. With Defiance, you can also order an action with a longer ejection port...this fixes the issue and allows you to keep the short action.

Regarding the 284 vs 300WSM, I think they are both fantastic. Although I have not used a 300 WSM, my observations of others leads me to believe it is an extremely easy to tune rifle and stays in tune...that is a winning formula. Finnicky cartridges do not win matches and the 300 WSM seems to be very "un-finnicky." Pros for the 284 WIN or 284 Shehane, much less recoil, no need for a magnum bolt face.

When comparing ballistics, it is a wash. A 284 Shehane with 180s in the low 2900 fps has identical wind drift to a 300 WSM driving 215 hybrids at the same velocities. On paper, there is no wind-drift benefit to the 300 WSM until you move up to the 230 Hybrids. But, the 230s have not been used very much in f-class because the recoil becomes punishing over long strings.

In your case, shooting mostly mid-range, I recommend a straight 284 WIN...but to each his own!

 

[strat81]

I appreciate the reply, Scott. I'm not a big dude so recoil is a factor for me.

 

[dskogman]

I would not start with a WSM. It adds recoil and bag management issues on top of everything else. I love my 6BR but only shoot it at 300yds anymore.

 

[284 Husker]

If I skip the 6.5CM...

What does a 300WSM get me over a 284Win? And what am I giving up by going to 300WSM?

@284 Husker do you have any input? Gehrig has me drinking the 284 Kool Aid.

Scott pretty much summed it up. I would start out with the 284 win.

 

[SealT5]

@strat81 go down to bighorn and talk with Aaron about it. He is an fclass shooter and also shoots a RBLP tl3. It was my idea

Give Robbie a hug for me.

Joe S

 

[strat81]

@strat81 go down to bighorn and talk with Aaron about it. He is an fclass shooter and also shoots a RBLP tl3. It was my idea

Give Robbie a hug for me.

Joe S

I went down there last week and spoke with Ray. Super cool guy, very helpful and informative.

 

[jnm300ultra]

Strat81,
I’m finishing up my first build from start to finish. I was in the same boat as you. I have been shooting a Nesika long action RBLP 6.5x47 lapua for 5 years. This rifle was a 6.5x284 and I had it rebarreled. The 6.5 is great for mid range just not enough for 800-1000.My new build is a
284 no turn neck
Borden BRLXD RBLP 20 moa base
McMillan Kestros R adjustable cheek and pull
Jewell br trigger
Nightforce 12-42x56 nxs
Benchmark 33” 1-9” Speedy taper.
I had Jim Borden do the barrel and blue print the trigger. Tom Meredith is bedding the action as we speak. I should be getting the rifle back in 3 weeks. I went with the long action because I wanted the weight of the action and I like to be able to remove a loaded round without removing the bolt. I found no problem with speed of the bolt with a long action, in f class we always a target puller and I’m waiting for the target to appear. I do see the future of the target camera. One thing about having a Rblp is having a spotting scope will be in the way of your ammo. I also didn’t want a ejector tossing my brass on the ground.
Good luck with your build.
Jason