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Need expert advice forming brass

This will be a long post, sit back and enjoy.

I decided to form a new wildcat strictly for PRS based on the 131gr Blackjack ACE. As a handloader who tries to be as accurate as possible I continually ran into three very specific problems:
1.) Big BC bullets that are extremely long seat far into the powder column on most cartridges. I believe this reduces efficiency and makes it a little harder to create perfect loads.
2.) They are seated so far into the powder column because they are restricted by the magazine OAL allowance.
3.) The lands are unreachable because of the magazine OAL, and steep ogive bullets don't touch as soon as "normal" ogives. Jumps with my 6BRA were .125 with a new barrel!

I wasn't willing to settle for any of these. I called D. Kiff at PT&G and we came up with this over 3 or 4 conversations.

1.) .308 parent case with no alteration of the taper.
2.) Have the "touch point" of the ogive at 2.860", most AICS magazines are 2.880" - this leaves room to touch the lands INSIDE of the magazine OAL.
3.) Start forming the cartridge by placing the base of the bearing surface at the neck\shoulder junction and leave only the boattail in the powder column.
4.) Ackley (40 degree) the shoulder out to the case wall.
5.) Ensure that there is at least 1.35 bullet diameters for the neck.

And that is pretty much it. I elected to use small primer .308 brass. Knowing that there is no easy way to form the brass (that is where you, the patient reader, are encouraged to chime in!) I bought 300 wildcat tubes from Peterson Brass. Here is a basic glimpse of the idea: Quarter Norton-Layout1.pdf and the reamer print Kiff developed 25 Norton.pdf

Now the fun begins. I have to form the brass with the shoulder pushed back almost .200 and steepened. My thought process is to:

1.) Cut down .308, 7mm\08, .260 and .243 dies in the lathe by removing material from the base of the die, until the neck\shoulder junction has a .004 crush fit. The lathe is right next to the press BTW.
1a.(edit) Expand neck back to .257 using a Sinclair mandrel expander die.
2.) Much brass trimming will need to happen to reduce the length.
3.) If I do this I will end up with 20 degree shoulders, so the final step will be to fire form the 40 degree shoulder.
4.) Once I create the fired cases ship them to Whidden for hydroforming, sizing, and seating dies.
4a.) Send fired cases to RCC and have them machine brass.

All of this is hideously expensive. I am fine with that. I didn't do this to save money. I just wanted a rifle that works for me with zero compromises.

If you have experience forming oddball brass - especially moving the shoulders back, I would love to hear it! I get a lot of blank stares when I try to explain it to some very smart people.

And here it is:25 Norton Action Side.jpg 25 Norton Left Side.jpg Caliber Stamp.jpg
 

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Look into the case forming die from Pbike. From my understanding of it, you can form your case in steps with only one die. It has different inserts to push shoulder back and form the neck. I believe that it does a 30 degree shoulder.
 
I form all kinds of brass and have at least 30 sets of dies. Many times I can find something that will squeeze necks and push shoulders back in stages, don’t forget seating dies either, the necks are bigger than sizing dies but will still work well forming necks in increments. When all else fails, I do have a 12x36 lathe in my shop. I just chuck up a piece if round stock that I’ve scrounged over the years and make whatever it looks like I need for the next step. You don’t need a hardened die, it doesn’t need a mirror finish, in fact it’s not always helpful. As a couple examples of what can be done without much trouble, I can make 22Br out of 308 military brass and also 17 Mach IV out of 5.56 military brass. Another that is a bit tricky is 280 Ross from 300 Win mag. Make sure to use Imperial die sizing wax lube, nothing else comes close. Don’t worry too much about getting the exact shoulder angle while forming, just make sure your case head spaces snugggggggly and a final fire form will finish that out. Depending on what you’re making from what an anneal or two will cut down on culls. I use the case standing in a pan of water and then a propane torch in a coal black dark room method. Heat the neck and or shoulder from the top in a quick circular motion until you can just think you saw a tiny bit of pink show up on the neck, move to the next one. No need to tip them over, they’ve already cooled enough the second you remove the heat. It’s a bit tedious but I still do it just because I can. My son is in the musical instrument repair and custom instrument build business, he forms brass on a daily basis. I’ve seen him form 50BMG down to .277 in jig time. He’s got the tools and more importantly, knows how to do it. Brass forming is an acquired art. Expect failures, they are learning opportunities.
 
I form all kinds of brass and have at least 30 sets of dies. Many times I can find something that will squeeze necks and push shoulders back in stages, don’t forget seating dies either, the necks are bigger than sizing dies but will still work well forming necks in increments. When all else fails, I do have a 12x36 lathe in my shop. I just chuck up a piece if round stock that I’ve scrounged over the years and make whatever it looks like I need for the next step. You don’t need a hardened die, it doesn’t need a mirror finish, in fact it’s not always helpful. As a couple examples of what can be done without much trouble, I can make 22Br out of 308 military brass and also 17 Mach IV out of 5.56 military brass. Another that is a bit tricky is 280 Ross from 300 Win mag. Make sure to use Imperial die sizing wax lube, nothing else comes close. Don’t worry too much about getting the exact shoulder angle while forming, just make sure your case head spaces snugggggggly and a final fire form will finish that out. Depending on what you’re making from what an anneal or two will cut down on culls. I use the case standing in a pan of water and then a propane torch in a coal black dark room method. Heat the neck and or shoulder from the top in a quick circular motion until you can just think you saw a tiny bit of pink show up on the neck, move to the next one. No need to tip them over, they’ve already cooled enough the second you remove the heat. It’s a bit tedious but I still do it just because I can. My son is in the musical instrument repair and custom instrument build business, he forms brass on a daily basis. I’ve seen him form 50BMG down to .277 in jig time. He’s got the tools and more importantly, knows how to do it. Brass forming is an acquired art. Expect failures, they are learning opportunities.
Thanks for the tips! Hindsight being 20\20, I should have ordered a die reamer from PT&G. I have 2 roughers and 2 finishers. I didn't even think about using one of those to get a start. I could also build a case gauge, great advice.
I have 750 Templaq, a torch, and a drill. I just need to get some cases to chamber dimension but I will stress relieve after forming.
I am sticking to Ackley's 0.004 crush for the fire forming. I also have to find a load after I get a case volume. Time to break out the TI-83 and some antacid...
 
"Pbike257"

He is a member here, search will provide a link for a PM. Great products and good to deal with.
 
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I hope that it helps. I’ve talked with Paul through email in the past. He works on large construction projects, and is on the road a lot. His dad helps to sell his items. My understanding is that you can take a 308 case and form it to a 6BR, or anything in between. Which sounds like what you’re trying to make.
 
By looking at the reamer print. It looks very close to a 6.5x47L base to start of neck. Just necked down .007 and 40 degree shoulder. I would have considered starting the design off of this case, vs the wildcat tubes. It would have been a lot easier with your initial case forming.
 
By looking at the reamer print. It looks very close to a 6.5x47L base to start of neck. Just necked down .007 and 40 degree shoulder. I would have considered starting the design off of this case, vs the wildcat tubes. It would have been a lot easier with your initial case forming.
You are correct, it is close. I went this route because I have used Peterson tubes before. They are gloriously easy to form versus reshaping an existing cartridge. I would still have to move the shoulder back and trim the necks heavily.
Once I get a sizing die (Whidden probably) life will be much easier!

Just need those first few cases...
 
My last cat is based off of shortening the .284 Winchester.
This one I used bit and pieces of ancient CH pistol dies to
get my baby step squeezes before going to the shortened
.284 die......I have in the past used Newlon Precision for my
forming projects and is recommended especially since you
have a lathe.....The .257 Ace would be a dandy in my SA284
case. You have the advantage of using a short action magazine
and a bigger boiler. Probably like touching off a .257 Roberts.
I'm staying with the .284. but in your case (pun intended) look
at shortening the 6.5/.284 and keep the 35 degree shoulder.
 

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Find a set of 6BR form dies. They will form just about anything on a .473 based case.
Since you have a lathe try shortening the cases with a piece of sharp HHS. Figure out a stop for the chuck and hold the neck with a center.
 
fbikegreatlakes@gmail.com

This is the email I got my form die 2 months ago. Mine is for mag. He responded very quickly to my inquiries.

Waverly

It’s in a drawer still because I don’t have a press set up yet. Just finishing up construction of shop/ man cave. I bought mine to make 330 Dakota from 404 Jefferies.
 
It has been a while, but there has been progress.

The initial fire forming has happened. I talked to Kiff and we are making 3 changes:
- Adding .010 to the body
- Adding 0.002 to the neck diameter
- Adding freebore to seat to lands at 2.860

It happened a little easier, and a little harder, than I thought. Ended up going .308 to 7mm08, to .260, then to 257 Roberts AI. Had to take material from the bottom of all dies create a reference at the shoulder\body line, then fire form.

Adding to the neck diameter will make this a no-neck turn from .308 brass.

One more round to go and it is off to Whidden for resizing and seater dies. After that it is headstamped brass from RCC.

L-R 300WM, 30-06, 308, 25 Norton, 223AI

20201115_151556_resized.jpg
 

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