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Need Dillion 550B tips and tricks

eric32

Shooting when I can
Silver $$ Contributor
Hey guys,

I finnaly got my new house and a new basement reloading area set up. But still need to add more lighting.

I traded for a 550B a long time ago with alot of accessories. Been in storage for a while and I have ZERO Dillon experience.

Machine is definitely used and I lubricated everything up last night. Still havent loaded a single round.

My plan is to use 8208XBR for my 308win 175gr loads. Because i have an Accuracy international AT that shoots about 3/8 inch groups with M118LR with a 20 ES for 10 rds and thats not the greats ammo in the world. So i am not going to bother with the chargemaster when it just shoots. It will be my club match barrel for local PRS matches.

But my 6XC will also be on the dillion but i will be using the powder funnel die. Same thing with my 260rem loads. Along with the chargemaster i already have the powder reducer in it.


So anything that i can polish up, adjust to make the auto charge throw smoother or more accurate. Or cheap easy upgrades that make the process easier or better faster whatever.

I also thought of a case prep head, for sizing and de priming and another for seating and powder throwing.


My annealing is done on an AMP and trimming on a giraud . So i am covered there.
 
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The tech guys at Dillion are your best friend and will help you with anything you need from advice to parts. They are some of the best in the industry when it comes to helping customers and whether you bought the machine new or used makes no difference to them, they will back up the machine and help you in any way.
 
I'm not at home, so I don't have access to the pictures on my NAS. But I polish the interior of the aluminum cones on the bottom of the powder measures to improve consistency of disbursement. But!! I did it for the more difficult to flow flake powders like Unique for loading pistols. Don't see it as being necessary for your application.

Just follow normal volumetric powder dispensing tips for accuracy.
- throw several prior to the one you intend to use
- consistent vibration and motion (speed) will help with accuracy
- any time you change time between throws or motion/vibration, throw 1 or 2 before the one you use

You check weights will tell you how well you are doing.
 
Go directly to Dillion website and Watch any video's they have, or call them direct and get reliable information and instructions from them. It will save you a lot of time and effort.
 
@jepp2

How did you polish the powder dispenser? I was thinking flitz and a drill, but not extactly sure what kind of applicator buffing thingy majigger to use.


Also thanks @Bill K i already went thru all the videos. Just looking for user improvements and inventions and techniques from the dillon crowd
 
I have two Dillon 550's, one for large and one for small primers. I have 14 toolheads with dies and powder measures for both rifle and pistol.
Tips for pistol loads:
The Dillon powder measures are OK, but for pistol a MUCH MUCH better set up is the Lee Pro disk measure in a Lee Powder through expanding die, with a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die at Station #4.It is also cheaper than the $85 Dillon measure. The Lee is $68 for the measure and powder die, the factory crimp is $23. The advantage of the measure is it is easy to change disks, has a powder shut off, is repeatable, and Like the Dillon, it is actuated by the case pushing up, so it will not drop powder if there is no case there.
https://leeprecision.com/pro-auto-disk.html
https://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/powder-thru-expanding-die-only/
https://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

The real advantage of the crimp die at station 4 is that while crimping, it also resizes the case. No more cases that don't chamber. I started using this when shooting IDPA to insure my loads would feed.

One other comment regarding pistol dies. I like the Dillon Carbide dies, as they have a nice rounded corner on the carbide die area which makes them very easy for the case to feed into the dies.

The Dillons are wonderful machines. I have owned many Star, Berdon, and C&H progressives, and sold them all to buy the Dillons.
 
Thats good info, however i dont see my self loading pistol ammo, i have taxpayer dollars for that one. This will be for personal match rifles.

Good input non the less much appreciated
 
How did you polish the powder dispenser? I was thinking flitz and a drill, but not extactly sure what kind of applicator buffing thingy majigger to use.

Mostly buffing wheels on a Dremel. I actually started with very fine sandpaper (800, 1500, 2000 grit) then went to Flitz then Mothers. Shines like crazy. Even with the baffle, I try to keep my tube filled to a consistent height.
 
Will do,

What are the little metal circles used for in the conversion kits?
 
Will do,

What are the little metal circles used for in the conversion kits?
When buying conversion kits, calibers of same case head diameter will have same shell plate and buttons.
Example .380 auto .223
 
"Slow is smooth, and Smooth is fast" Go slow and steadywith a good rythem as someone mentioned above. you are on a progressive, you are going to make a lot of ammo in a short time even without trying to rush. Some of those youtube vids try to show you how fast you can go....ignore them. One thing I do with my AR loads is seat the bullet without crimping, and having an extra die do a taper crimp by itself.
 
Thanks guys going to anchor down my press on the bench later this week after i figure out where put it. And place all my gizmos on the bench to make the process smooth.

Graduating from a redding T7.
 
"Slow is smooth, and Smooth is fast" Go slow and steadywith a good rythem as someone mentioned above. you are on a progressive, you are going to make a lot of ammo in a short time even without trying to rush. Some of those youtube vids try to show you how fast you can go....ignore them. One thing I do with my AR loads is seat the bullet without crimping, and having an extra die do a taper crimp by itself.
+1 on this , some real good advice when using a progressive.... Also if it feels like something is in bind STOP and see if there's a problem.. I deprime and resize on my single stage then do all the brass prep then move to the Dillon for the other steps in .223... Dropping powder , seating , crimp etc... On large rifle I just us the single stage press because there's only two dies...

I deprime even pistol with a decapping- die on my single stage because clean up is way easier.... Don't forget if there's a problem Dillon will take care if it , even rebuilding the press for like $75... The sky and your wallet is the only limit with Dillon.. Take your time and get into a good routine and speed will come but safety is way more important... I don't use stick powders on what I load on the Dillon so there's no problems , their powder thrower works very well....
 
Ohh ya , one other kinda big thing... Don't sit down and load a thousand rounds , be absolutely sure that it's a good load and exactly what you want before you mass produce ammo even pistol ammo.... Loading a few hundred rounds is easy , breaking them down because of a mistake you didn't see or a bad load sucks really bad....
 
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