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Neck turning

Im forming 6.5-06AI brass from lapua 30-06 brass and once necked down the brass is going from 15thou neck thickness to allmost 18thou crazy thats to thick i read on the forum to turn the neck as a 30cal before necking down. Why do it before and not after
 
Im forming 6.5-06AI brass from lapua 30-06 brass and once necked down the brass is going from 15thou neck thickness to allmost 18thou crazy thats to thick i read on the forum to turn the neck as a 30cal before necking down. Why do it before and not after
I do mine after any neck manipulation to account for any distortion the operation induced.
 
Some people might recommend turning first, to reduce donut forming. When necking down from 30 to 6.5, some of the neck will become shoulder.
 
Hammer,

Makes it easier to size the brass and what Steve said. Helps to anneal before first turning and after completing the last sizing step and before a final neck turning @ 6.5 mm.

HTH,
DocBII
 
didnt matter
It is going to move. This is the batch I turned after necking down. One the ones I turned first, the location of where I lightly ended at the shoulder meant I had turned further down the neck than when I turned after.

Turn After Necking Down.jpg
 
do you think it would aid in the fireforming
The neck is going to blow out no matter how thick. Fully blowing the shoulder forward is the challenge.

The hoop stress increases the pipe's diameter, whereas the longitudinal stress increases with the pipe's length. The hoop stress generated when a cylinder is under internal pressure is twice that of the longitudinal stress. Longitudinal joints of a pipe carry twice as much stress compared to circumferential joints.

Another benefit of turning after you neck down is that necking down introduces thickness variations into the neck. I try to minimize it by taking it down in steps. But you can always turn it some before you neck down and again after they are fully formed.
 
I turn at native cal/thickness because in that original form it expands to fit the turning mandrel correctly.
Well, it has for most of my cartridges (except WSSM).
Then I neck up or down as desired.

It has been trial & error for me, with a few culled cases, to hit the right turned thickness so that the necks come in at my desired thickness after necking up/down.
I don't FL size necks, ever, and it seems like it could take more fiddling up & down to get mandrel fit than it would be worth.

I recently put a spreadsheet together to calculate & predict this, and hopefully remove trial & error.
 

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