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Neck turning question

Stosh123: First of all, welcome to the world of accurate rifles. :)

Honestly, your best bet is to go with a complete quality neck turning setup from one manufacturer. There are several companies out there....K&M, PMA, Sinclair, etc.

As well, it's helpful to have a competent person sit down with you and walk you through the steps, setup, etc. until you get comfortable with the process. Nothing like hands on experience.

If you'd like to have your current cases stress relieved so they can be returned to service, I'd be happy to do them for you at no charge.

Good shootin' :) -Al
Hey Al, thank you for contacting me. With all the info. given to me, I am going to take up Boyd Allen’s offer to walk me thru this. And yes, I think annealing the cases correctly would give me some additional reloadings.
I probably should have sought out someone to do this for me in the first place and not have to pay 1.00$ for new brass. Then again, they’ve served me well and I have no complaints.
Have a good day, Stan
 
Stosh123: First of all, welcome to the world of accurate rifles. :)

Honestly, your best bet is to go with a complete quality neck turning setup from one manufacturer. There are several companies out there....K&M, PMA, Sinclair, etc.

As well, it's helpful to have a competent person sit down with you and walk you through the steps, setup, etc. until you get comfortable with the process. Nothing like hands on experience.

If you'd like to have your current cases stress relieved so they can be returned to service, I'd be happy to do them for you at no charge.

Good shootin' :) -Al
Al, thank you for your input. Pat Miles[??] has offered to help with trying to save my work hardened cases too, so they are off to him. I probably should have sought someone to anneal these original cases and not buy new and have to prep the cases. From what i've gotten in responses, the Forester neck trimming tool that I have is not the most used way to turn necks. Again, should of asked before buying. In addition after talking with Boyd Allen, I think the best route for me to follow is to send the new cases to Darrell Jones and have him complete them for me. Boyd is a wealth of knowledge, but with all the small details to attend to during the turning process, I'm going to have someone who knows exactly what their doing complete them for me. Anyway, I appreciate your offer. Thank you, Stan
 
Bart "walking" you through neck turning and DJ doing some turning and forming for you, all we need now is Alex Wheeler to have a quick look at your action and youl be done. Well done guys!
 
Thanks, Capt.,
I’ve chickened out and have asked DJ to do the whole 100 cases. By the time I struggled thru doing those cases I’d be 83!!! But, not is all lost,I have gained some insight into what this “game” about. Thank you everyone.
 
Thanks, Capt.,
I’ve chickened out and have asked DJ to do the whole 100 cases. By the time I struggled thru doing those cases I’d be 83!!! But, not is all lost,I have gained some insight into what this “game” about. Thank you everyone.
Yes, I suppose the barreled action should be looked into, but then again I’m just going to continue to shoot for my own “grins”. I have been able to occasionally shoot 5 shot groups the size of a dime, but more the size of a quarter. When I bought the rifle, the owner told me that 27 gr. Of N133 was the optimum. I’ve since read that others load 28,29 or even 30 hrs.! Not sure how they funnel that much powder in that case. But Boyd enlightened me there also,
something about “drop tubes”.
By now you guys know that I like to talk, my wife says sometimes I talk too much, but life is a blessing and I am grateful to find kindred souls to talk to. Stan
 
When I bought the rifle, the owner told me that 27 gr. Of N133 was the optimum. I’ve since read that others load 28,29 or even 30 hrs.! Not sure how they funnel that much powder in that case. But Boyd enlightened me there also,
something about “drop tubes”.

Yep, if you have a target rifle with barrels to spare, 4 quality wind flags, high end rest and bags, benchrest scope, custom bullets, perfectly prepared reloading at the range, and you're ready to squeeze that last .06 out of your aggs. If not, then limiting yourself to a broad "low" node at 27 gr is the much better choice.

Most PPC shooters here go for the high node and do all of the other things. The cartridge can do it. So when you read about those practices make sure you're taking advice that suits your needs. Outside of competitive circles, loading 6PPC to less aggressive specs is very practical and still plenty accurate to beat most other cartridges. Right now I'm playing with my Sako 6PPC and its new Krieger 13.5 twist barrel. I'm currently testing LT-32 powder between 26.5 and 28.5gr. I don't have a drop tube so when I fill 28gr or more, I tap the filled case gently on the table to make it settle before I seat the bullet. To go any further I'd need a drop tube.

Lapua brass is excellent stuff. Prepared by an experienced individual, it can't be beaten. But if you're shooting casual loads and want to consider Sako or Norma 6PPC brass, it's also an excellent option. You'd only need to turn the neck.
 
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Yep, if you have a target rifle with barrels to spare, 4 quality wind flags, high end rest and bags, benchrest scope, custom bullets, perfectly prepared reloading at the range, and you're ready to squeeze that last .06 out of your aggs. If not, then limiting yourself to a broad "low" node at 27 gr is the much better choice.

Most PPC shooters here go for the high node and do all of the other things. The cartridge can do it. So when you read about those practices make sure you're taking advice that suits your needs. Outside of competitive circles, loading 6PPC to less aggressive specs is very practical and still plenty accurate to beat most other cartridges. Right now I'm playing with my Sako 6PPC and its new Krieger 13.5 twist barrel. I'm currently testing LT-32 powder between 26.5 and 28.5gr. I don't have a drop tube so when I fill 28gr or more, I tap the filled case gently on the table to make it settle before I seat the bullet. To go any further I'd need a drop tube.

Lapua brass is excellent stuff. Prepared by an experienced individual, it can't be beaten. But if you're shooting casual loads and want to consider Sako or Norma 6PPC brass, it's also an excellent option. You'd only need to turn the neck.
Hello,
Appreciate your input. I to have used LT32. I’d have to say that the results were about equal to that of N133, and the powder is a lot easier to find. Some of the problem I have is in my bench technique. For instance, after I fire a round, and I move the rifle back into”battery”, the cross hairs are way off from where they need to be for the next round. This isn’t always true, but more often than not, I have to move the scope quite a bit.
I probably will continue to shoot in the 27 grs. area. Being somewhat frugal, rightly or wrongly, I feel that at the low powder load I’ll get more rounds thru the barrel before it has to be replaced. Then again the desire to be able to shoot very small groups might displace that notion. Take care, Stan
 

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