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Neck Turning Question

My 21stCS Turner is supposed to be delivered tomarrow, this is my first endeavor into turning, I would like to know if trimming my cases on my Giraud Trimmer before turning will be OK, or should I use my Wilson trimmer, thanx.
 
brian427cobra said:
My 21stCS Turner is supposed to be delivered tomorrow, this is my first endeavor into turning, I would like to know if trimming my cases on my Giraud Trimmer before turning will be OK, or should I use my Wilson trimmer?

Either trimmer would be OK, but personally, I'd use the one that does the most precise trimming.

Since this is your first adventure down this path I highly recommend you review either one of these articles or both:

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/12/reloading-neck-turning.html

or

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/

Following the sequence of steps correctly will ensure good results.

Did you also purchase the correct 21st C expander mandrel so it will match up with 21st C turner pilot for your caliber?

Mixing one company's expanding mandrel with another company's turning pilot is the quickest way to generate a headache of migraine proportion. Good Luck!
 
I bought the complete kit so no mixing and matching, and I have read both those articles already, I will use my Wilson because it cuts all cases exactly the same, thank you.
 
brian427cobra said:
I bought the complete kit so no mixing and matching, and I have read both those articles already, I will use my Wilson because it cuts all cases exactly the same, thank you.

Good idea. I just read the operating instructions on the Giruad and it indexes off the shoulder vice the bottom of the case so you'll be ensured of good end product with the Wilson.

With the Giruard, if your headspace dimensions on your resized brass are not consistent, then the cases won't be trimmed to a uniform dimension.
 
I trim on the Giraud prior to turning. I agree, however, that headspace control is essential to producing evenly trimmed cases. However, that's not too hard if your brass is kept together by lot and number of firings. Normally I turn necks when the brass is new.
 
Well my turner showed up today, the 21st Century Shooting is well made, feels good in my hands, set up was very easy except a little tedius on the amount cut into the shoulder, but after turning 10 new cases of Rem 260 brass I think its the brass, some have cuts in the shoulder some don't, I FL all the cases in a Forster die with the decapping pin and expander removed, trimmed on my Giraud, expanded the cases then checked all the cases and every single one was the same length, I picked .013 as my target, adjustment of the cutting depth was quick n easy, and most of all repeatable, I may need to invest in a better tool to measure my neck thickness, and a way to speed up the process, thank you again.
 
I always trim my brass to length (if it needs it at all, that is) after neck turning, not before.

The idea being that any inconsistencies at the neck mouth will be trimmed away once the outer surface has been trued up by turning.

I turn new brass once to even up the neck walls, then once they've been fired a time (or two) go back & finish with a light cut to reach my preferred neck wall thickness.

My practice (at least on high quality brass) is to leave cases untrimmed for the first firing, then trim to length after the cases have been fire-formed to my chambers. I use a Wilson rig for all my trimming.

About the inconsistent shoulder cuts: If your case necks aren't all the same length (from the shoulder-neck angle) and / or your case mouths aren't square, you'll have an irregular length of travel & hence cut on those necks if you're using the mandrel's stop shoulder to limit the cutter travel.

Better idea would be to back the mandrel off & just be very careful taking a light cut off the shoulder once the cutter reaches that metal. Then go back and trim to length to square up your necks, then chamfer inside & outside by whatever means you prefer.
 

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