Neck Sizing 6.5 Creedmoor
- Thread starter Nelly
- Start date
I neck size 'just a portion of it'. I don't reload 6.5 Creedmoor. The portion I resize is the portion that supports to the depth of where the bullet is seated in the neck. I am determined to work the brass as little as possible. Most of what I reload is generally 'easy' on the brass. It works for me.
I use the Forster Bushing Bump Neck Sizing Die, and only resize about 2/3 of the neck. I like the idea of the unsized portion of the neck fitting tighter in the chamber neck.
I was thinking this was a relatively new idea, until I got reading my 1963 Lyman Reloading Manual today. They suggested only resizing the portion of the neck that held the bullet. So, not such a new idea afterall!
The benefit of doing a partial neck resizing may depend on the type of chamber you have. If you are turning your brass or have a tight no turn chamber, the value of the partial resizing may be reduced.
This is based on resizing brass fired in the gun you are reloading for. If you are using once fired from another gun, then I would resize the whole neck for sure.
What's nice about the Forster Bushing Bump Die is that you can adjust the bushing to resize only a portion of the neck, but still bump the shoulder by the amount you want.
Referring to RonAKA's reply #5, last paragraph, when using brass that was not fired in my rifle I would always F/L resize. I guess I would first see if that other rifle fired brass chambered in MY rifle, but I really only use my own brass anyway.
As far as 'bumping' (Zero333 reply #6) I have to have a reason to 'bump'. (Bolt hard to close for example). I do not arbitrarily 'bump' shoulders. I have to have reason to do so.
As far as 'bumping' (Zero333 reply #6) I have to have a reason to 'bump'. (Bolt hard to close for example). I do not arbitrarily 'bump' shoulders. I have to have reason to do so.
Use the F/L die to get you started. However, have you tried chambering the fired brass in YOUR rifle before you do anything to it?
No, Not yet, I don't know what to feel for when I do. I've been using my own fired Hornady Brass from my RPR so far. What should I feel for when I chamber the range brass ?
That your bolt chambers the brass freely and the bolt handle closes without any effort. And extracts it the same way. If it does you will not be were the OP is/was. Every chamber is different.
Just want to mention as I said in reply #8......I only fire my own brass. My reasons for doing this are probably unfounded in 6.5 Creedmoor.
Inspect the brass carefully, cycle it, there should be no problems.
M-61, Thanks for the good info. I don't want to sound like a Doofus newbie, but what's the OP ?
OP= original poster.
Open and close your bolt without a cartridge/brass in the chamber...take careful note of force needed to rotate the bolt into the locked position. Now take a piece of brass in question, chamber it and compare the force needed to lock the bolt. Do you feel any difference in resistance when rotating the bolt into battery? If so I suggest FL resize of the brass. If you feel no change in resistance then neck size only is OK. If you have a RPR, I suggest removing the firing pin/fire control from the bolt using the provided tool located in the bolt shroud (google for videos on the procedure). This will remove the force required to compress the firing pin spring when the bolt closes making it easier to discern the effect of oversize brass. Removing the ejector plunger also is ideal but requires a punch. If you are not real handy with fine hand tool work and do not like chasing a small spring around a shop floor you may be best to skip that step
(actually it is easy if you are careful and can put the bolt in a gallon ziplock bag during the process so it will capture the spring if it gets loose).Open and close your bolt without a cartridge/brass in the chamber...take careful note of force needed to rotate the bolt into the locked position. Now take a piece of brass in question, chamber it and compare the force needed to lock the bolt. Do you feel any difference in resistance when rotating the bolt into battery? If so I suggest FL resize of the brass. If you feel no change in resistance then neck size only is OK. If you have a RPR, I suggest removing the firing pin/fire control from the bolt using the provided tool located in the bolt shroud (google for videos on the procedure). This will remove the force required to compress the firing pin spring when the bolt closes making it easier to discern the effect of oversize brass. Removing the ejector plunger also is ideal but requires a punch. If you are not real handy with fine hand tool work and do not like chasing a small spring around a shop floor you may be best to skip that step
rardoin, Should I remove the firing pin in the bolt before I do anything ? or follow the steps you outlined & then remove the firing pin ?
I should have made that more clear....if you are going to remove the fire control group, which I highly suggest doing, then remove it before checking the brass resistance on bolt closure.
Will do...Thanks
Nelly, also put a tiny dab of grease on the leading edge of the extractor so it will slide easily over the rim of the case and not interfere with the feel while closing the bolt. Sometimes that Ruger extractor can take a little force to 'clip' over the case rim. The grease can help that. Clean off the grease before firing.
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