My 20 Practical Brass Making Process

[Mark M.]

I use new LC Brass, lube with One Shot.
Then using my .223 Rem. Redding type S neck die, I change out the existing decapping rod and expander ball to the 20cal. I use the .233 and then the .225 bushings I get the necks were I want them.
My next step is I run them through a modified 204 Ruger Lee collet die, this uniforms the neck thickness to 12.5 and gives me a .201 inside dia.
I then run them through a expander mandrel to give me a finished .2025 inside dia. for a 1.5 thou neck tension.
Last I trim to 1.750 then chamfer with RCBS and K-M tools.
I believe brass prep is everything and am always looking to improve.

 

[B23]

You're a lot more dedicated than I am. I don't have a 20 Prac but to make 20-222 and 20-250 brass I run new brass out of the box through a KM expander so the necks are round then neck them down in one step and load. I used to do it in two steps with two different size bushings but could see no difference in the brass or on target so I do it all in one step now. With bushing dies I never use the expander ball, seems to defeat the whole purpose of using a bushing die.

 

[GLShooter]

I run mine through a gutted 223 die then the appropriate bushing die to give me 0.002 neck tension. I'll trim after forming. One important step is to chamfer the cases prior to running through the bushing.

Greg

BTW i'm doing this on a 650 so it goes pretty fast thanks to the case feeder.

 

[MikeT49]

Wow. Certain unnamed persons who have forgotten more about the 20 Practical than I know, might refer to this as the 20 Complicated.

 

[TheCZKid]

I use new LC Brass, lube with One Shot.
Then using my .223 Rem. Redding type S neck die, I change out the existing decapping rod and expander ball to the 20cal. I use the .233 and then the .225 bushings I get the necks were I want them.
My next step is I run them through a modified 204 Ruger Lee collet die, this uniforms the neck thickness to 12.5 and gives me a .201 inside dia.
I then run them through a expander mandrel to give me a finished .2025 inside dia. for a 1.5 thou neck tension.
Last I trim to 1.750 then chamfer with RCBS and K-M tools.
I believe brass prep is everything and am always looking to improve.

I'm curious about the modified 204 Ruger Lee collet die, is that something you had to modify, or did Lee do that for you, or someone else?

I've not used a Lee collet die, so I am not familiar with how it would make the neck a uniform thickness. Could you help me know how you got the modified die made and how it works? Thanks

My recent solution was to neck turn, so on un-shot LC brass I use a 225 bushing in my Redding Type S die, no to get them uniform 12.5 and using the 224 bushing. I need to test and see if one or the other shows improvement.

My 20P is an AR, and my neck tension was not enough with the bolt slamming forward (I recently figured this out), so my bullets were always slamming into the lands regardless of the seating depth I thought I was making them.
I'm assuming with 1.5 thou neck tension you are using a bolt gun?

My process is use an RCBS 223 die with no expander or guts, then use the Redding S die with 233, then 225, for correct neck tension - then turn the necks to 13 thousands thick to make the thickness uniform.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

I tried the Redding 223 neck sizing bushing die gutted with new brass(LC, Rem) both brands I ended up with damaged brass. I have a .233 and .226 bushings, I decided the unsupported case body was the issue, been watching for a full length 223 bushing die. I have not had any issues with bullets changing seating position while chambering or unloading using the .226 bushing(I purchased some custom brass since I can't find a die). Haven't turned any necks, bullets just will push through fired brass with light finger pressure.

 

[GLShooter]

A gutted NS die won't do anything to do an initial sizing before using the final bushing. If I do it with a bushing die I do it in two steps. If you fail to chamfer the outside of the neck it will cause headaches.

 

[jpx2rk]

Are you guys removing just the expander ball, or removing the entire stem/expander ball from your bushing dies when making/sizing your 20P brass?

What headaches arise if you don't chamfer the outside of the neck???

 

[GLShooter]

I never use expander balls with bushing dies. I prefer to use a standard gutted due initially.

Chamfering allows the case mouth to ease into the bushings. That little angle beats trying to run the square mouth into the bushing. You're going to chamfer it anyway when loading.

Greg

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I use new LC Brass, lube with One Shot.
Then using my .223 Rem. Redding type S neck die, I change out the existing decapping rod and expander ball to the 20cal. I use the .233 and then the .225 bushings I get the necks were I want them.
My next step is I run them through a modified 204 Ruger Lee collet die, this uniforms the neck thickness to 12.5 and gives me a .201 inside dia.
I then run them through a expander mandrel to give me a finished .2025 inside dia. for a 1.5 thou neck tension.
Last I trim to 1.750 then chamfer with RCBS and K-M tools.
I believe brass prep is everything and am always looking to improve.

Or just run them in the FL die right off the bat and you’re done in one shot. Don’t overthink such a simple case conversion. Worry about the finer details after they have been fired.

 

[JSH]

I have collet dies and have used them at various times for various projects. If they can make brass flow and be uniform I have never seen it.
It will make a uniform ID of the neck, that in no way means the neck wall thickness is true and equal 360 degrees.

 

[TheCZKid]

Or just run them in the FL die right off the bat and you’re done in one shot. Don’t overthink such a simple case conversion. Worry about the finer details after they have been fired.

I don't know if someone makes a FL Die for 20 Practical, I'm sure one could be custom made for lots of $$ but I have FL 223 die which I use without expander rod, then my Redding S die with a 233 bushing, then 225, so the necks don't deform by reducing them too fast.

Do you know of a single FL 20 Practical die that converts 223 down in one step, and does not deform the necks? I looked again just now, don't see one on google search, at least if I don't want a custom one made.

One reason I use a Redding bushing die is so I can control the neck tension, and coordinate that with how much material I leave when I turn the necks. So I don't think I'd want to be limited to a custom FL 20 Practical die regardless, as it would yield only one option for neck tension. But I don't know if anyone has experience with a custom die?

 

[GLShooter]

I've been loading the PRAC a long time and have scoured the internet and never seen a regular 20 Practical die. My method of loading is just like yours as is the rationale CZ.

Greg

 

[jpx2rk]

I never use expander balls with bushing dies. I prefer to use a standard gutted due initially.

Chamfering allows the case mouth to ease into the bushings. That little angle beats trying to run the square mouth into the bushing. You're going to chamfer it anyway when loading.

Greg

Do you remove the stem that the expander ball screws on to as well ????

 

[SmokinJoe]

You could use a standard 20TAC die, just watch the headspace.

 

[GLShooter]

Do you remove the stem that the expander ball screws on to as well ????

If I decap on the die I use the recapping holder that eliminates the expander button. If I am not recapping I take the whole rod out. You just have to remember to drop the nut the rod screws in to on top of the bushing.

Greg

 

[GLShooter]

You could use a standard 20TAC die, just watch the headspace.

No can do. The TAC has a 30 degree shoulder. The PRAC is 23 degrees. I shoot both.

Greg

 

[jepp2]

I don't know if someone makes a FL Die for 20 Practical

CH4D does

 

[GLShooter]

CH4D does

They have done several customs for me to my reamer prints. Not very fast for sure. If they had one in stock it would be fast. They are undergoing some changes right now as Dave is no longer there so it's hard to say about production at this point.

Greg

 

[jpx2rk]

If I decap on the die I use the recapping holder that eliminates the expander button. If I am not recapping I take the whole rod out. You just have to remember to drop the nut the rod screws in to on top of the bushing.

Greg

I deprime on a separate press, etc., so I will try you method and see how it does. My 20 P is shooting great right now, but I bent the expander ball stem on mine the last time I re-sized some 20 P brass, and was looking for clarification about the expander ball & stem. Thanks for the help & advice.