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Muzzle Device - Anti-Seize?

lazyMlazyK

Silver $$ Contributor
Does anyone use anti-seize on muzzle threads when installing a compensator or brake? I've got some Loctite LB 8013 (N-7000) that I'm thinking of putting on the threads of an AR barrel that I'm going to be mounting a Thunderbeast CB brake on. A suppressor threads onto this brake, and I'm considering using a little on those threads as well. Is this ill-advised?

Also, could I use some of this on the threads of a barrel being screwed into an action with a barrel nut? The factory Savage barrel was a bear to get off, and I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to use anti-seize on the new barrel install to make swapping it out down the road a bit easier.
 
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I use a product called Rokset on my muzzle threads when attaching QD muzzle brakes, but nothing on the QD connection between the brakes and the suppressors. I don’t know whether you need to put anti-seize on the barrel threads.
 
I've never been told or taught to put anything on the bolt lugs. I'm guessing some type of grease or oil on the part of the lug that cams over on bolt-close?
 
I remove my muzzle breaks every time I clean my barrel. I clean the muzzle brake now every time I clean my barrel.
Soak it overnight. I just put a dab of grease on the muzzle thread when i re-install. Use same grease on barrel thread and mating surfaces when installing barrel. I'd make a habit of removing and cleaning your muzzle devices. They get crapped up pretty good over time, and will start effecting accuracy. I can't speak of Silencers as I don't have one yet. I'd guess they get carboned up as well.
 
Yes. Just helped a friend install a Warcomp yesterday and I am not a fan of these dry thread instructions. All threads should at least have oil, but anti-seize (silver or moly usually) is usually better. YES, it'll change the torque settings, but I'd rather have to adjust those off the cuff than have it be seized up later.

Also tiny bit of grease or oil on the shoulder (find where that is, sometimes it is inside) and on (and between!) any shims, etc you might have. Thin shims can bind on install if dry and become damaged, result in the device going on non-straight, etc.
 
I used to use Rokset to mount my muzzle-brakes ... I use ASR brakes from SilencerCo and suppress everything. But the brakes were just too hard to remove for cleaning, and they get pretty carboned-up from being inside the suppressor. Now I use clean threads and just tighten hard without treating the muzzle threads. I don't think anti-seize is a good idea here because it would make it too easy to unscrew when still mounted to a suppressor. Regarding the barrel threads that connect barrel to action ... absolutely use anti-seize if you ever want to remove that barrel.
 
Rocksett.

You don't want to be regularly removing and re-torquing muzzle devices.
Fine thread pitch, easy to stretch the threads and likely will over-clock with repeated removal.
If I can't clean carbon with solvent on a shop swab, hang it upside down with the muzzle soaking in a cup of the solvent.
 
I put my ultrasonic on the floor, carefully secure the rifle muzzle down, so it can't fall and soak/vibrate the carbon off.

Suppressor mount so it gets even dirtier, needs it every once in a while. All in all, easier than removal as well as safer for wear, mistakes.
 

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