• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

muzzle brakes and cleaning???

hi everyone.

i have two rifles with muzzle brakes that i am a little concerned about. niether rifle has had many rounds put through it...less than 100 on each and both are barely broken in. when i clean the barrel im concerned that i an getting cleaning agents, bore paste, and or crud all over the inside of the muzzlebrake which i am unable to really clean. It is difficult to inspect the crown and the inside of the muzzle brake for cleanliness as well.

is there a particular technique to cleaning the barrel with a brake or is the break very easily removable? what tools are required to remove/re-install a brake. give me your thoughts and advice please. thank you


here are a couple pics of the brakes is that helps at all.

DSC02056.jpg


DSC02055.jpg
 
Those brakes will spin right off for cleaning. If you ever stick a patch in a brake, you'll always take them off after that episode. I use a metal rod close to the diameter of the holes, stick it through two opposing holes, and unscrew it. Keep the threads clean, and use a touch of grease when re-installing. No need to screw it back on farmer tight.......

I usually just spray them off with Brakleen, sometimes using an old toothbrush for a little persuasion with your bore cleaner of choice first.
 
The best way to clean the brake is to unscrew it and put it in ultrasonic cleaner, after a couple rounds in ultrasonic it will be like new.

Throw the bolt in with the brake taking it apart first is better though.

I use my ultrasonic to clean everything stainless, gunparts, tools and other stuff.
 
alf said:
... use a metal rod close to the diameter of the holes, stick it through two opposing holes, and unscrew it.

any particularly good way of getting the quiet brake off??? (the one with the holes only on the front end)

Thank You
 
NRA, make a pin spanner using the hole pattern from the brake as a guide.Use a piece of flat bar with two holes drilled in it for the appropriate size dowel pins. Jim
 
Or get one of these

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=40010&mr:trackingCode=00750F9E-782A-E011-B31E-001B2163195C&mr:referralID=NA

Can find them at Ace, Home Depot, etc. Won't mar the finish.
 
okay guys any other suggestions????

the brake with the holes in the side came right off (old leather belt and channel locks).

The brake with the holes in the front is turning out to be problematic. I have tried a leather belt with channel locks and vice grips. the leather belt slips, doesn't get enough traction. I bought a husky brand (home depot) strap wrench and gave that a try.... again as with the leather and the channel locks, the strap slips, cant get enough traction. i torqued it enough to actually sort of burn or wear away the rubber of the strap..! I also bought an adjustable pin spanner or pin wrench from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-pin-wrench-36554.html ....i bent the wrench trying to turn this brake off. probably a pretty low quality tool but still, just goes to show this brake is on really tight..... i did try heating the brake up a little bit before one attempt with the strap wrench.

any ideas???? this is frustrating.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,279
Messages
2,216,020
Members
79,547
Latest member
M-Duke
Back
Top