I put the brake on myself. I built the gun myself. I am positive I got the threads on the end of the barrel straight with the bore. That would much more important than who put the brake on the barrel. All that is needed for that is to time it correctly. I time a brake when cutting the threads on the barrel so no shims or crush sleeve is needed. The barrel is a chrome moly Shilen barrel. It is a good barrel just much less expensive than the match grade stainless barrels I have put on other gun builds. I also only bought a solid pilot chamber reamer for this gun instead of a bushing type reamer. I am getting 1MOA and a little less with some test loads so I don’t consider that bad accuracy just trying to get the best I can. Didn’t mean to make it sound like I am having problems with this gun I was just looking for other people experiences with accuracy and muzzle brakes.That would depend on who installed it and again, attach anything to the barrel and harmonics change. Keep working on the load if you want better but the words "inexpensive barrel" also raises a red flag as to why it might not be shooting. Might not be the brake.
From my limited experience with the E C Tuner/Brake on 3 of my rifles I believe it is important to time it the same place each time it is removed.So not so much having an issue but just wanting to see others experiences. You can always test your own set up with and without the brake and see which shoots better. My rifles have brakes and all shoot great. Whenever I hear about someone having issues with a brake it's the install that is usually the case. I like to use self timing brakes so no machining needed to install them. They aren't $40 though lol That Shilen should shoot good for you too. Thought when you said inexpensive it was one of those cheap barrels.
I should try it without the brake like you said but I’m sure I would end up putting it back on because this gun is a 338 Win Mag. For me it is just fun to experiment with different components, costly and cheap, to see how they compare. This gun that I build economically is shooting best groups at barely under 1MOA. Guns I have over twice the money in are shooting .5MOA or less. Bigger calibers can be tougher to get accurate though too.So not so much having an issue but just wanting to see others experiences. You can always test your own set up with and without the brake and see which shoots better. My rifles have brakes and all shoot great. Whenever I hear about someone having issues with a brake it's the install that is usually the case. I like to use self timing brakes so no machining needed to install them. They aren't $40 though lol That Shilen should shoot good for you too. Thought when you said inexpensive it was one of those cheap barrels.
From my limited experience with the E C Tuner/Brake on 3 of my rifles I believe it is important to time it the same place each time it is removed.
I should try it without the brake like you said but I’m sure I would end up putting it back on because this gun is a 338 Win Mag. For me it is just fun to experiment with different components, costly and cheap, to see how they compare. This gun that I build economically is shooting best groups at barely under 1MOA. Guns I have over twice the money in are shooting .5MOA or less. Bigger calibers can be tougher to get accurate though too.
I guess ill be the one to ask- why the solid pilot reamer when it seems that you are trying to build this for accuracy?I put the brake on myself. I built the gun myself. I am positive I got the threads on the end of the barrel straight with the bore. That would much more important than who put the brake on the barrel. All that is needed for that is to time it correctly. I time a brake when cutting the threads on the barrel so no shims or crush sleeve is needed. The barrel is a chrome moly Shilen barrel. It is a good barrel just much less expensive than the match grade stainless barrels I have put on other gun builds. I also only bought a solid pilot chamber reamer for this gun instead of a bushing type reamer. I am getting 1MOA and a little less with some test loads so I don’t consider that bad accuracy just trying to get the best I can. Didn’t mean to make it sound like I am having problems with this gun I was just looking for other people experiences with accuracy and muzzle brakes.
Sometimes I do Dumb things.I guess ill be the one to ask- why the solid pilot reamer when it seems that you are trying to build this for accuracy?