Very nice work. Not my cup of tea, but I can respect the workmanship that you put into them.
more stock making
- Thread starter scasa
- Start date
Very nice work. Not my cup of tea, but I can respect the workmanship that you put into them.
Now that's talent!!!!
For the OP, It appears that time locked down at home is a blessing! I'm detecting some old school machinist skills. Very cool to see.
Regarding anodizing - the trick is to adjust the material removal during etching, with the increase in thickness from the anodic film. Anodic films grow from the surface in both directions, so a 0.0004" inch thick film will only add 0.0002" per surface. After determining the etch rate, one can adjust the dwell time in the etchant to remove 0.0002" per surface - which will open up a hole 0.0004". Then, adjust the anodizing conditions to apply a 0.0004" thick film (which is good for dyeing), and the result will be holes returned to approximately their original dimensions. Dyeing and sealing will not add to the final dimension after anodizing.
Regarding anodizing - the trick is to adjust the material removal during etching, with the increase in thickness from the anodic film. Anodic films grow from the surface in both directions, so a 0.0004" inch thick film will only add 0.0002" per surface. After determining the etch rate, one can adjust the dwell time in the etchant to remove 0.0002" per surface - which will open up a hole 0.0004". Then, adjust the anodizing conditions to apply a 0.0004" thick film (which is good for dyeing), and the result will be holes returned to approximately their original dimensions. Dyeing and sealing will not add to the final dimension after anodizing.
scasa
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks for the complements!
Seagull I need to update my test target after load development much better now.
KVD Old school /poor boy. I've been a long time getting ready to learn how to anodize at home . I think it was 2006 I made a capacitor discharge welder to weld aluminum wire to the part being anodized and I'm just now getting to use it . I was a member of home gunsmith forum when fibergeek developed the low current density anodizing system for caswell plating. He has passed on now but the information is still there.. That's back when making 80% AR's from castings and forgings was popular . He never thought painting was the way to go since anodizing was so easy and would reply GUN PAINTER to anyone that painted one. Most of what I've learned was from that site and caswell 's anodizing forum. I bought the dye and sealer from them but have just been winging it with the rest of the chemicals. I had to try different things since I had no mixing ratios or time in solution so things have been kind of hit and miss but I kinda have a system now that works. I did find a 720 rule calculator to put on my shop computer that will figure anps ,time and peak voltage if you put in sq in ,film thickness desired and amps per sq ft so that was a big help. Now I just have to figure out surface finish for the desired outcome. I actually messed up the trigger housings the first go around and they spent a lot of time in the caustic solution before they got redone. They still didn't come out as good as some of the samples I made but only the bottom can be seen when there installed. and I didn't want to risk messing them up any more.
Bead blasting before anodizing has caused most of my problems but I'm gaining on it. Now I have to gather up all that stuff I made from aluminum and and anodize it. It's not professional by any means but ok for home shop .
Seagull I need to update my test target after load development much better now.
KVD Old school /poor boy. I've been a long time getting ready to learn how to anodize at home . I think it was 2006 I made a capacitor discharge welder to weld aluminum wire to the part being anodized and I'm just now getting to use it . I was a member of home gunsmith forum when fibergeek developed the low current density anodizing system for caswell plating. He has passed on now but the information is still there.. That's back when making 80% AR's from castings and forgings was popular . He never thought painting was the way to go since anodizing was so easy and would reply GUN PAINTER to anyone that painted one. Most of what I've learned was from that site and caswell 's anodizing forum. I bought the dye and sealer from them but have just been winging it with the rest of the chemicals. I had to try different things since I had no mixing ratios or time in solution so things have been kind of hit and miss but I kinda have a system now that works. I did find a 720 rule calculator to put on my shop computer that will figure anps ,time and peak voltage if you put in sq in ,film thickness desired and amps per sq ft so that was a big help. Now I just have to figure out surface finish for the desired outcome. I actually messed up the trigger housings the first go around and they spent a lot of time in the caustic solution before they got redone. They still didn't come out as good as some of the samples I made but only the bottom can be seen when there installed. and I didn't want to risk messing them up any more.
Bead blasting before anodizing has caused most of my problems but I'm gaining on it. Now I have to gather up all that stuff I made from aluminum and and anodize it. It's not professional by any means but ok for home shop .
scasa
Silver $$ Contributor
Well finally I have gun parts freshly anodized and I'm pretty happy with them. Their not perfect but for home shop I think their pretty good . The red matches the bipod pretty good, the blue one is a little dark however I can live with it. The free float tubes are for my tube gun .17 wsm.
scasa
Silver $$ Contributor
Well the end has finally come for another project. I started this one about 15 years ago and it's done. It shoots!
I started with a 0%AR-15 upper and lower and milled away everything that didn't look like a poor mans tube gun . It's had a couple of revisions originally it was going to be a .17 HMR and have a semi auto and a single shot bolt action upper fit to the same lower. The semi auto worked just fine but I always had bulged case heads , never had one blow out just didn't want to chance it. then winchester came out with the .17WSM rimfire so that's where were at today.
A 17 WSM single shot bolt action in an AR configuration anodized black and blue. Another project finally completed.
The magazine is fake but it holds 4 rounds. The receiver is stainless inside the AR upper and has a full diameter 3 lug bolt. The barrel is a green mountain stainless 1 in 9 twist. I had to make the mag release and front take down pin but everything else is AR parts in the lower . I made all the stock parts and the barrel retaining nut and hand guard . When the bolt is opened it cams the hammer back and when pulled all the way back pushes the hammer all the way back to cock it. the hammer rubs the bottom of the bolt but on a piece of 3/16 cobalt tool bit imbedded in the bolt. When the bolt is all the way to the back there is a pin that pushes the firing pin out to become the ejector. The cam on the back of the bolt prevents it from firing unless the bolt is closed. To remove the bolt You have to remove two allen head screws ,one that holds the plug in the back of the receiver and the other one is actually the bolt knob.
I started with a 0%AR-15 upper and lower and milled away everything that didn't look like a poor mans tube gun . It's had a couple of revisions originally it was going to be a .17 HMR and have a semi auto and a single shot bolt action upper fit to the same lower. The semi auto worked just fine but I always had bulged case heads , never had one blow out just didn't want to chance it. then winchester came out with the .17WSM rimfire so that's where were at today.
A 17 WSM single shot bolt action in an AR configuration anodized black and blue. Another project finally completed.
The magazine is fake but it holds 4 rounds. The receiver is stainless inside the AR upper and has a full diameter 3 lug bolt. The barrel is a green mountain stainless 1 in 9 twist. I had to make the mag release and front take down pin but everything else is AR parts in the lower . I made all the stock parts and the barrel retaining nut and hand guard . When the bolt is opened it cams the hammer back and when pulled all the way back pushes the hammer all the way back to cock it. the hammer rubs the bottom of the bolt but on a piece of 3/16 cobalt tool bit imbedded in the bolt. When the bolt is all the way to the back there is a pin that pushes the firing pin out to become the ejector. The cam on the back of the bolt prevents it from firing unless the bolt is closed. To remove the bolt You have to remove two allen head screws ,one that holds the plug in the back of the receiver and the other one is actually the bolt knob.
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