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More 6.5 Creedmoor questions

What would the longest suggested barrel length be for the 6.5 Creedmoor shooting 140 grn. bullets at 900-1000 yds.? I was thinking maybe 30" but not sure. There must be a point of diminishing returns in being to long.
This rifle will be for the bench only.

Is any one shooting a custom chamber or are they all SAAMI ?

How about rifle type, Remington or Savage, which would be more desirable?

I'm very serious about building one of these and want to get all the info I can first.
Any suggestions will be welcome.
Tia
 
Hey Tia,

Most guys are running them 26"-30". The tactical guys will be running them at around 26" typically. Some are even at 24" or 25". Most F-Open or benchrest guys using this caliber will be shooting them at 30-32". So...you being a benchrest guy, I would say 30-32".

Ask swampthang. He runs a 6.5 creedmoor for benchrest.

Not sure if there is a dimishing return other than you are paying for a barrel that costs a little bit more.

I do not hear anyone running a custom reamer and most are just running a SAAMI spec chamber. If you are a benchrest, F-Open guy, then maybe you might want to control the dimensions a bit more. Seems like the SAAMI chamber does just fine with the 140gr bullets though. No issues there. I want to say the throat is pretty long or long enough to hand the 140gr bullets.

I would go with a Rem700 or a footprint like that. Easier for parts. I have seen too many savage accutriggers have issues on the line that I will not get one. If you can afford it, any of the custom actions would be good too. BAT, Defiance, Barnard, Panda, etc.
 
My 6.5x47 Lapua F-Class rifle is 32" long. My thinking is that when the barrel is shot out, I can set it back 4" and still have a 28" barrel that should work for a good while longer.
 
My Hart 1:8 twist finished at 29" on a trued Rem 40X action with a Jewell trigger. Here at my range at 4700 feet I get 2947 fps with 140 gr Hornady Amax and 41.5 gr H-4350. Last group at 200 yds was 0.749". I elected not to pay extra for a longer tube, but my Smith was able to get 29" out of my blank. My chamber was done with a standard reamer with as close to minimum specks as possible.
 
Thank you all very much for the replies there is some good info there.

One more question,
The barrel I was looking at is a Krieger #17 @1.250 x5.0 x .900, 31" This would finish at 30" correct? Or is there a better barrel option?
 
Your barrel idea would work. However why do you want a taper? If your shooting from a bench with some support, I'd go with a straight. Then you don't have any issues when the time comes to shorten and re chamber.
 
I have a 30" Kreiger in 6.5CM for my F-Open rifle and a 26" barrel on my tactical rifle. Waiting on the my F-class stock to get here and I'll do a side-by-side over my chronograph with some factory ammo. Even with the 26" I'm able to get 3275fps with a 120 Scenar-L pushed by RL17. My 140's have been down around 2900, hoping to touch 3000 with the 30" if it's a fast barrel.
 
good morning sir,
i just won the north fla 1000 in light gun division with my 6.5 creedmoor. my load is 42.7 gr h-4350. fed 210m primer, neck turned .012 hornady brass and seated .020 off my lands in a 28" bartlein 5r i also shoot berger 140 vld. it routinly shoots 5 in groups at 1k my best in competition is a 3.177 and 3.7 in 5 shot group . my latest win was a 4.109 with a score of 49 1x
almost a perfect 50/
as long as you make weight limit of 17lb i would get as long a barrell as i could make weight with i have 1940 documented rounds down my tube and she still shoot but i WILL be going to a 30 in finished barrell 1.250 amd 1.00 at the muzzle when its time, should give me 100-150 fps more
im running a mid range load now at 2785 with es at 9 fps
hope this helps if you need me just let me know... be more than glad to help where i can. mine is on a 700 action ,toolet mbr stock with a john whidden v-block. its tough to beat when i do my part and i shoot against the best in the couintry.
 
swampthang said:
good morning sir,
i just won the north fla 1000 in light gun division with my 6.5 creedmoor. my load is 42.7 gr h-4350. fed 210m primer, neck turned .012 hornady brass and seated .020 off my lands in a 28" bartlein 5r i also shoot berger 140 vld. it routinly shoots 5 in groups at 1k my best in competition is a 3.177 and 3.7 in 5 shot group . my latest win was a 4.109 with a score of 49 1x
almost a perfect 50/
as long as you make weight limit of 17lb i would get as long a barrell as i could make weight with i have 1940 documented rounds down my tube and she still shoot but i WILL be going to a 30 in finished barrell 1.250 amd 1.00 at the muzzle when its time, should give me 100-150 fps more
im running a mid range load now at 2785 with es at 9 fps
hope this helps if you need me just let me know... be more than glad to help where i can. mine is on a 700 action ,toolet mbr stock with a john whidden v-block. its tough to beat when i do my part and i shoot against the best in the couintry.

How did you arrive at that taper (1.250 x 1.00) for your next barrel? I originally was going to go with Krieger #17 that finished with a .900 muzzle but wanted something a little bigger. I ended up with 1.250 straight and had posted over on the Creedmorr forum that 1.250x1.00 was the taper I really wanted. But for me, it was all about looks. I'm sure your decision won't be based on curb appeal. So why that taper,, and what taper are using now?

Congratulations on your fine shooting.
 
i only weight 15.8lbs and can afford a heavier ,longer barrell and still make weight- the longer the barrell the more speed, and it still gives you enought length to set it back when the throat eroads. plus the heavier the barrell the slower it will heat up during a string of fire. hope this helps. let me know if/how i caqn help you.
 
swampthang said:
i only weight 15.8lbs and can afford a heavier ,longer barrell and still make weight- the longer the barrell the more speed, and it still gives you enought length to set it back when the throat eroads. plus the heavier the barrell the slower it will heat up during a string of fire. hope this helps. let me know if/how i caqn help you.

But the disadvantage to this is if your gun gets front heavy it won't track worth a poop.
 
swampthang said:
i only weight 15.8lbs and can afford a heavier ,longer barrell and still make weight- the longer the barrell the more speed, and it still gives you enought length to set it back when the throat eroads. plus the heavier the barrell the slower it will heat up during a string of fire. hope this helps. let me know if/how i caqn help you.

OK. So, if I read that right, your decision for your new barrel contour was based on weight? I was wondering why you picked that taper ( 1.250 x 1.00-30" )
 
Hoier said:
swampthang said:
i only weight 15.8lbs and can afford a heavier ,longer barrell and still make weight- the longer the barrell the more speed, and it still gives you enought length to set it back when the throat eroads. plus the heavier the barrell the slower it will heat up during a string of fire. hope this helps. let me know if/how i caqn help you.

But the disadvantage to this is if your gun gets front heavy it won't track worth a poop. not to worry about the tracking at all,
with the tooley mbr stock it can shoot 5 rounds for score as fast as i can and never make any adjustments, it tracks straight back to the 10 ring ( hopefully x ring)
i can continue to shoot the 28 its still competitive, i just won the north fla 1000 with it but when i feel its time for a new tube i will be going with the finished 30" just for speed. i feel it will still balance very well. the 260 a buddy shoots is basically the same as a creedmoor and his has the same stock i run but with a 30 kreiger and his tracks well to. hope this helps.swampthang
 
Eraser said:
What would the longest suggested barrel length be for the 6.5 Creedmoor shooting 140 grn. bullets at 900-1000 yds.? I was thinking maybe 30" but not sure. There must be a point of diminishing returns in being to long.
This rifle will be for the bench only.

Is any one shooting a custom chamber or are they all SAAMI ?

How about rifle type, Remington or Savage, which would be more desirable?

I'm very serious about building one of these and want to get all the info I can first.
Any suggestions will be welcome.
Tia

Personal experience is that it does not matter with the 6.5 Creedmoor. With factory 129 grain ammo I'm able to get 1/3 MOA out of a factory Savage LRP with a 26" barrel that I bought used at a pawn shop. With load development I'm able to get 1/4 MOA out of the same rifle using 140 grain Berger hybrid's. It's reserved for 1000 yard F Class now and I shoot a factory .223 BVSS Savage for mid-range F Class. After a bit more load development than the 6.5 required, it's a 1/2 MOA rifle. There just seems to be something about the 6.5 Creedmoor that is special in my book.
 

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