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molly anyone

To moly coat bullets, rinse them in alcohol too remove lube, let them dry and put them in a vibratory tumbler with steel balls or ceramic beads and powdered moly. Let them tumble for about an hour. Remove them into a old towel or t shirt and roll them around to remove excess and you're good to go. Some guys put bullets, beads and moly in a pill bottle and put it in a tumbler but i just use a dedicated tumbler bowl for mine.
 
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I also rinse in alcohol and rotary tumble in ball bearings for about an hour. Sometimes, I also use a separate tumbler to apply carnauba wax (tumble 20-30 minutes or until glassy smooth), though I have found I don't mind getting a bit of moly on my fingers, which the wax helps prevent. It also helps to run moly paste through your bore, followed by a few dry patches before the first shot. It helps the load to "settle down" a bit faster from my experience, otherwise my 6BR and Dasher require several shots to do so. On my dasher, the first couple of shots without the moly paste shoots far enough off that I just shoot them into the berm. I don't moly for benchrest as my load is not jammed, though my BR and Dasher both like it jammed and unloading a live round can be problematic with the bullet sticking in the lands - putting as quick stop to things. The moly, with proper neck tension, will greatly alleviate that from happening. It also greatly reduces the SD's.
 
Wet method, here. I fill an empty 1 lb. powder bottle 2/3rds full with bullets, cover with water and then some (maybe 3/4ths full), add 1/2 teaspoon of moly powder, seal it tight and give it a ride in my rotary tumbler for an hour or so. I use foam padding to brace the bottle in the tumbler. After an hour or so, I drain the liquid into another empty 1 lb. powder bottle for reuse. Obviously, larger containers allow for more bullets. The coated bullets are poured out onto an old towel, wrapped up and rocked back and forth a few times to dry and remove any excess. Final drying is done in my brass dryer. They come out looking like black chrome and not nearly as messy as dry coating.

Do wash your bullets first, or the coating will not come out even. I use hot water and Dawn for washing, followed by a rinse with cold water.
 
I use a neco kit, clean bullets in corn cob for 6 hours, then steel balls in a vibratory tumbler for another 6 hours. I dont wipe them after, just dump them back in the box. a little more messy that way when loading.
I tried the wet method, but it was hit and miss. Id do one batch and they came out black chrome, beautiful, and the next batch looked terrible. just wasnt consistent for me. I saw a difference in velocity from wet and dry coating with the same load. not much though. I dont use the wax, im using a gas gun.
 
Still using the Neco kit I purchased 20 yrs ago. I may have to give the wet method a try. I still wax my bullets to keep the mess to a minimum while handling them.
Paul
 
I use wet impact plating method in vibratory bowel with just enough water to wet a slurry of approx 1/8 tsp of moly. Once the bowel is coated it takes even less moly for subsequent batches.

Vibrate bullets until 100% dry....about an hour +/-. I aim a fan at the bowl to aid in drying. There should be very little dry moly left in bowel when done. Adjust moly amount accordingly on subsequent batches.

If bullets are properly cleaned prior to vibrating they come out like chrome with very little moly to clean up in a towel.
 
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Wet method, here. I fill an empty 1 lb. powder bottle 2/3rds full with bullets, cover with water and then some (maybe 3/4ths full), add 1/2 teaspoon of moly powder, seal it tight and give it a ride in my rotary tumbler for an hour or so. I use foam padding to brace the bottle in the tumbler. After an hour or so, I drain the liquid into another empty 1 lb. powder bottle for reuse. Obviously, larger containers allow for more bullets. The coated bullets are poured out onto an old towel, wrapped up and rocked back and forth a few times to dry and remove any excess. Final drying is done in my brass dryer. They come out looking like black chrome and not nearly as messy as dry coating.

Do wash your bullets first, or the coating will not come out even. I use hot water and Dawn for washing, followed by a rinse with cold water.
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I do it exactly this way, and have for 15-20 years. I also coat my bore with colloidal graphite as a final patch after cleaning. This system has served me well for many years.

Lloyd
 
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Give the Moly the flick and go for hBN.. LOTS less messy, first shot from cold bore will be where the rest go. Tubb or Bullet Coating kits last for several thousand pcs.
hBN even has a higher melt point and no sulphur residue that can turn to H2SO4 in your barrel due to atmospheric moisture.
Just one man’s opinion…
 
i have done it. cant say there was any advantage to it
After years of hBN use I too have gone back to shooting them naked…
Bit more velocity for a given charge and less hassle in my reloading routine.
The most “magic bullet“ will be the one that you carefully loaded, aimed straight and followed through with the shot… ;)
 

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