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Modifying a Lee Collet Neck Die for better donut resistance

I’ve seen other threads in the archives posted about modification to the LCD. Before I explain what I did or why it differs, let me recap the path the led me to do so.

I have a set of “small hole bore gauges” that allow you to dial in quite precisely (<0.001”) a diameter probe that you can measure with calipers or micrometer.

Here’s the kind of gauges to which I refer:
1721166479756.png

Using the appropriate gauge size, you can probe and feel the inside of your necks with remarkable resolution. You can feel a donut with these long before you’d feel it when seating or have any other indication because your fingers are directly touching a precisely sized probe sliding axially through the neck.

I’ve been wanting to move towards using an “initial decap/body size” with a FL die and oversized bushing (like a body die but with a tiny bit of neck engagement) and then doing a final neck size on the Lee Collet die.

The problem I ran into is that very clearly the LCD was leaving a donut at the neck base where it transitioned from the collet engaging the neck to having no collet contact.

What’s more, I was also noting a “burr” on the case mouth. So as you insert the bore guage into the neck, it would be a bit tight, then normal barely-clearing, then it would tighten again as you had to push past the donut.

Looking at the inside of the collet, it showed the surface finish was pretty poor— lots of tooling mark.

I’ve solved many surface finish problems with Flex Hone brushes before, so I broke out my “243 chamber” brush and flex-honed the collet ID.

The flex hone accomplished three important things for me:
1) Overall improvement in surface finish that is quite drastic
2) Introduced a bit of taper at the bottom of the neck, mimicking the tapered ID of the bushing.
3) Provided a tiny bit of exit taper to eliminate the mouth burr

Subsequent sizing with the LCD showed NO DETECTABLE DONUT. I’m sure it’s still thicker there, it’s just that the taper on the collet ID (again, mimicking a bushing) is allowing the neck to have more room where it needs it to accommodate the thicker material. I’m hoping that this taper on the collet will also contribute the better case-centering (in theory?) at the NSJ since that’s sometimes the first part of the case that engages the chamber.

I doubt there will be noticeable improvements on target. But I feel like the flex-hone modification to the collet is a better way to go than trying to turn down the mandrel, because it mimics some of the proven taper geometry that works so well on the SAC and Wilson bushings.

Flex Hone brushes have a million uses— chamber polishing, die polishing, etc. It’s worth having a couple on hand. (I recommend the 400 grit).
 
I’ve seen other threads in the archives posted about modification to the LCD. Before I explain what I did or why it differs, let me recap the path the led me to do so.

I have a set of “small hole bore gauges” that allow you to dial in quite precisely (<0.001”) a diameter probe that you can measure with calipers or micrometer.

Here’s the kind of gauges to which I refer:
View attachment 1572559

Using the appropriate gauge size, you can probe and feel the inside of your necks with remarkable resolution. You can feel a donut with these long before you’d feel it when seating or have any other indication because your fingers are directly touching a precisely sized probe sliding axially through the neck.

I’ve been wanting to move towards using an “initial decap/body size” with a FL die and oversized bushing (like a body die but with a tiny bit of neck engagement) and then doing a final neck size on the Lee Collet die.

The problem I ran into is that very clearly the LCD was leaving a donut at the neck base where it transitioned from the collet engaging the neck to having no collet contact.

What’s more, I was also noting a “burr” on the case mouth. So as you insert the bore guage into the neck, it would be a bit tight, then normal barely-clearing, then it would tighten again as you had to push past the donut.

Looking at the inside of the collet, it showed the surface finish was pretty poor— lots of tooling mark.

I’ve solved many surface finish problems with Flex Hone brushes before, so I broke out my “243 chamber” brush and flex-honed the collet ID.

The flex hone accomplished three important things for me:
1) Overall improvement in surface finish that is quite drastic
2) Introduced a bit of taper at the bottom of the neck, mimicking the tapered ID of the bushing.
3) Provided a tiny bit of exit taper to eliminate the mouth burr

Subsequent sizing with the LCD showed NO DETECTABLE DONUT. I’m sure it’s still thicker there, it’s just that the taper on the collet ID (again, mimicking a bushing) is allowing the neck to have more room where it needs it to accommodate the thicker material. I’m hoping that this taper on the collet will also contribute the better case-centering (in theory?) at the NSJ since that’s sometimes the first part of the case that engages the chamber.

I doubt there will be noticeable improvements on target. But I feel like the flex-hone modification to the collet is a better way to go than trying to turn down the mandrel, because it mimics some of the proven taper geometry that works so well on the SAC and Wilson bushings.

Flex Hone brushes have a million uses— chamber polishing, die polishing, etc. It’s worth having a couple on hand. (I recommend the 400 grit).
Interesting. Thanks for the info. I had not seen it before.
 
150774.jpg



Here’s a pic of it, just a dinglenberry cylinder hone, but tapered in a .243 chamber kind of shape.


They have these brushes in a million different sizes and shapes. Some are actual chambers like this one, others are just a cylinder shape of a spec diameter. They come in many grits and abrasive types and I find this one to be super useful just as is.
 
If you want to resize just a part of the neck, find a washer at your local hardware store the has an inner diameter large enough to fit over the case, and an outer diameter large enough so that it contacts the sleeve that protrudes from the bottom of the die. Slide this washer over the case after the case has been inserted into the shell holder. Now when the Ram is raised, you can still close the collet by applying force at the bottom of the lever stroke, but the case will not go up as far into the collet, and the neck will be sized less an amount equal to the thickness of the washer.

And
Lee shortened the working portion of the collet, so a short section of the case neck is not resized. This does two important things that result in at least three worthwhile advantages:
1. It reduces working on the case mouth, to almost zero
2. It leaves the case mouth expanded enough to allow the bullet base to enter freely
https://support.leeprecision.net/en/search?query=Collet+neck+die

Bought one in 243 win.as a test. Not for me. No improvement in accuracy. (Rem 40X.) Hard on press & me/reloader, if following Lee instructions.

Like my Redding fl type S bushing die better. Ty.
 

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