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Mis-take Mis-take

ArtinNC

Gold $$ Contributor
Could not get anyone to chamber a 22RF barrel for me , seems that everyone was 4 to 6 months out . So I found a machine shop that I knew that made some tooling for some local gunsmiths . And they said they would turn the tennon and chamber it for me so I wrote out a page of instructions . And all is good ? RIGHT ? Got the barrel , action , my range rods and reamer , action back today . The barrel was to be a a interference fit . The barrel was cut .115 under size and further check he never put the live pilot on my reamer .. So now I guess I'm going to buy another lathe and do it my self , I can still have a 16 3/4 barrel .
 
I have been reading up on chambering 22 RF BARRELS, and I really don’t get it.
Experts talk about .043 headspace. Exactly where is that measured from?

Then, setting it to the first driving band.

Then another talks about bushing the round into the lands with the bolt.

Also, on expert talks about setting the headspace to what ever brand of ammo will be shot.

Enlighten me.
 
The headspace is from the boltface to the back of the barrel. The match chamber will engrave the rifling almost up to the brass case. Or a bentz chamber will engrave part of the bullet. A standard chamber will be looser and not engrave the bullet. Match chambers are sometimes a problem because you can't extract a live round.
 
The headspace is from the boltface to the back of the barrel. The match chamber will engrave the rifling almost up to the brass case. Or a bentz chamber will engrave part of the bullet. A standard chamber will be looser and not engrave the bullet. Match chambers are sometimes a problem because you can't extract a live round.
Are any of the 3 different chambers better for accuracy on a 22?
Also, do any of the 22 chamber reamers differ in their cutting OD?
( I would imagine a Match chamber being a slightly tighter chamber?)
do people prefer tight vs loose chamber for a .22 rimfire?
---
When cutting a chamber headspaced to your ammo? what amount of play is preferred?
Crush fit? Touch fit? .001" headspace?
---
All questions are for whatever contributes most toward accuracy
 
Been in a few arguments about headspace and holding it. Let me
throw this out there to start another one......I prefer doing a rim
thickness sort, I'll use my Hollands bullet comparator with a die
i made. I'll sort to .001" +/- variance. Couple of months ago as a
favor, I did a sort for a club member and his $25 dollar a box brand
"X". The variance between 500 rounds was .006. The variance would
have been less if it were not for Around 30 that fell on the thin side.
I'll take a thicker batch every time to avoid a light primer strike.......
How much chamfer you put on the chamber's breech face will also
effect head space. the shell body to the start of the rim can be
perfectly square, to having a large radius. With no chamfer on the
chamber and a round with a large radius, It would feel like a crush
fit even though the main portion of the rim never made full contact
with the breech face.......For what it's worth, I want some sort of full
contact on the rim.
 
I have been reading up on chambering 22 RF BARRELS, and I really don’t get it.
Experts talk about .043 headspace. Exactly where is that measured from?

Then, setting it to the first driving band.

Then another talks about bushing the round into the lands with the bolt.

Also, on expert talks about setting the headspace to what ever brand of ammo will be shot.

Enlighten me.
I put a .045 chamber gauge in the chamber and my bolt closed easy . So I turned the action up side down and could get a .053 feeler gauge between the bolt and the barrel . SO I thought that if I could make the new barrel .010 longer that would make me about at .043 Head space .

This is not a BR gun just something I'm playing with . And wish that I never give my lathe to my son that lives 500 miles away . I'm 85 and thought I would never use it again . WRONG !!

I 'M using a PT&G match reamer that I bought 10 years ago and never used it . And it has a stop on the reamer and they don't make reamer that way any more So I don't know where this reamer will set the bullet to the driving band .
 
So here is what I have garnered.
The barrel is trued up in the lathe just like you would for center fire.
The reamer determines the amount of seating depth of the round. It is a fixed dimension. There are various reamers that are designed to allow the bullet to engrave into the rifling anywhere form almost to the brass case to no engraving at all.
Ideally, the headspace should be set to what ever ammunition you are using, as rim thickness tends to vary quite a bit from different manufacturers. .043 inch is kinda in the middle.
It is best to have as close to a zero fit between the bolt face and the cartridge rim face as practical to insure consistent ignition.

Cutting the notches for the extractors seems to be a stumbling block for many.
If I remember, when I visited the Shilen Shop a few years back, they had one little (very old), milling machine that had the sole function of cutting extractor notches in rim fire barrels.

Heck, since nobody can seem to get anything done within four or five months, maybe I should start chambering rim fire barres. :cool:

Another question. How many different reamers do most rim fire Gunsmiths have on hand for different chamber depths.? Also, do most serious shooters have three own reamer?

To me, this is all just basic machine work and measuring.
 
I'm going to do my own cut extractor notches . There are about 30 different reamers , but a reamer that does not have the stop on it . I think you could get by with 4 basic reamers Or a lot less than 30 . LOL . My barrel is a interference fit so on threads . Tennon needs to be .002 or .003 larger than the action . And I'm going with the .043 head space kind of in the middle of the road .
 
Last edited:
I'm going to do my own cut extractor notches . There are about 30 different reamers , but a reamer that does not have the stop on it . I think you could get by with 4 basic reamers Or a lot less than 30 . LOL . My barrel is an interference fit so on threads . Tennon needs to be .002 or .003 larger than the action . And I'm going with the .043 head space kind of in the middle of the road .
.002 or .003 larger than the action?
 
OK, I'm going to ask something stupid. I haven't done many rimfires, but the ones I have done, the bolt has a recessed "face" that the case rim fits in. Off the top of my head, the recess is about the .043" depth. I never fit one of the barrels where the major boltface was against the barrel, but close. So the case rim has the .043". A reamer without a stop gives you the ability to fit the engagement in the rifling. But if you wanted a closer fit to the case rim, do you take some off the bolt nose? They have shot well but I don't shoot rimfire benchrest.
 
OK, I'm going to ask something stupid. I haven't done many rimfires, but the ones I have done, the bolt has a recessed "face" that the case rim fits in. Off the top of my head, the recess is about the .043" depth. I never fit one of the barrels where the major boltface was against the barrel, but close. So the case rim has the .043". A reamer without a stop gives you the ability to fit the engagement in the rifling. But if you wanted a closer fit to the case rim, do you take some off the bolt nose? They have shot well but I don't shoot rimfire benchrest.
Good question.
I watched a bunch of videos last night and some ammo has rims that are as thin as .037.
 
If you are shooting in a match you want to use a comparator and check all the rims of the bullets that you are going to shoot that day and only shoot the same rim thickness that match that your gun shoots the best . Not saying the others are bad .
 
So here is what I have garnered.
The barrel is trued up in the lathe just like you would for center fire.
The reamer determines the amount of seating depth of the round. It is a fixed dimension. There are various reamers that are designed to allow the bullet to engrave into the rifling anywhere form almost to the brass case to no engraving at all.
Ideally, the headspace should be set to what ever ammunition you are using, as rim thickness tends to vary quite a bit from different manufacturers. .043 inch is kinda in the middle.
It is best to have as close to a zero fit between the bolt face and the cartridge rim face as practical to insure consistent ignition.

Cutting the notches for the extractors seems to be a stumbling block for many.
If I remember, when I visited the Shilen Shop a few years back, they had one little (very old), milling machine that had the sole function of cutting extractor notches in rim fire barrels.

Heck, since nobody can seem to get anything done within four or five months, maybe I should start chambering rim fire barres. :cool:

Another question. How many different reamers do most rim fire Gunsmiths have on hand for different chamber depths.? Also, do most serious shooters have three own reamer?

To me, this is all just basic machine work and measuring.
I would say most of the top smiths are doing everything with one reamer and only run it in to achieve the amount of stick out they want. Some are even boring the camber
 
OK, I'm going to ask something stupid. I haven't done many rimfires, but the ones I have done, the bolt has a recessed "face" that the case rim fits in. Off the top of my head, the recess is about the .043" depth. I never fit one of the barrels where the major boltface was against the barrel, but close. So the case rim has the .043". A reamer without a stop gives you the ability to fit the engagement in the rifling. But if you wanted a closer fit to the case rim, do you take some off the bolt nose? They have shot well but I don't shoot rimfire benchrest.
No you don't want the bolt nose touching the Barrel but close . The recess in the front of the bolt on mine is only about .020 my guess .
 
This is all fascinating. Haven't touched rimfire stuff. If you want to talk shop about centerfire chambering, there's no end of good information and discussion. Rimfire info seems closely guarded.
 

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