mirage shield

[nfngun]

So how wide should a mirage shield be. 2" seems to be the norm they seem to come in 24" lenght. Does anyone use wider? like 3". I notice people place them differently, some further back on the rifle then others is a longer shield preffered or does 24" cover all anyone really needs. I'm using a 21.5" seems to do the job just fine.

 

[guidom]

I use a 3" wide window blind, with curve up.

 

[nhm16]

So how wide should a mirage shield be. 2" seems to be the norm they seem to come in 24" lenght. Does anyone use wider? like 3". I notice people place them differently, some further back on the rifle then others is a longer shield preffered or does 24" cover all anyone really needs. I'm using a 21.5" seems to do the job just fine.

It should be long enough to reach from just behind the front edge of your scope (or its shade) to just before the muzzle. I've used the 2" wide ones sold by Sinclair, but I'm going to switch to a piece of 3" vertical blind, I just have to get around to cutting and trimming it.

 

[BT1]

What is the best way to attach the shields. I have used Velcro but some barrel heat and my switching barrels often makes a mess. The Velcro tab will not clear the barrel channel and tries to peal off when changing barrels.

Steve

 

[nhm16]

What is the best way to attach the shields. I have used Velcro but some barrel heat and my switching barrels often makes a mess. The Velcro tab will not clear the barrel channel and tries to peal off when changing barrels.

I use the Scotch brand dots. Hooks on the barrel, fuzzy on the mirage shield. I press down firmly when the barrel is warm, hasn't come off. I use one mirage shield between several guns/barrels (I make sure the dots are all installed in a consistent place across guns/barrels), so it gets attached/removed quite often (even in a single 3x20 match, I have to take the shield off after every string to fit my rifle in our club's rifle racks).

 

[BT1]

Thanks,

I was using the fuzzy dots on the barrel. They are a bit thicker maybe that was my problem. Thinking of just putting them forward of the for-end of the stock to not interfere with rotating in the barrel channel. I will use hook dots on the barrel.

Steve

 

[coldboreshot]

My train of thought has been, you really don't need a strip of any material wider than the diameter of the barrel. You only need to block the heat signature, the width of the barrel in the field of view whatever size objective lens of the scope. Since 50-60mm seems to be the common aplication, 2" band should still suffice. The aluminum strips from Sinclair are just fine unless you want to indulge in custom carbon fiber models. Curved up or down, you choice.

 

[coldboreshot]

As for attaching to barrel, try a series of small magnets glued to the bottom of the mirage band. Easy on, easy off. If you use enough, no movement under recoil. You can find magnets that are half the width of the two pieces of velcro combined.

 

[calgarycanada]

As for attaching to barrel, try a series of small magnets glued to the bottom of the mirage band. Easy on, easy off. If you use enough, no movement under recoil. You can find magnets that are half the width of the two pieces of velcro combined.

Magnets will attract the bullet and slow it down


Just kidding of course ;D ;D ;D

 

[Lbart]

Mirage shields can be used for more than reducing barrel mirage. I shoot F-Class and we shoot even when it rains on non-covered ranges. I prefer the wide 3.5" old medal window blind material. I like the wider material since it moves the rising heat waves further from the line of sight. I turn my curved shield with the 'U' shape up so the raising heat is not trapped by the shield. When it rains I turn the shield the other way so water does not collect in the 'U'. I also use a long shield that runs all the way back to the action to keep water out of the barrel channel to prevent it from getting in the bedding during a storm. Keep in mind the shield is part of the rifle so be sure the shield does not put you over the weight limit. It you are concerned with barrel harmonics just do like I do and always shoot with the shield attached. BTW, Coldboreshot I think I'll try magnets. Thanks for the idea

 

[Lesloan]

What is the best way to attach the shields. I have used Velcro but some barrel heat and my switching barrels often makes a mess. The Velcro tab will not clear the barrel channel and tries to peal off when changing barrels.

I use the Scotch brand dots. Hooks on the barrel, fuzzy on the mirage shield. I press down firmly when the barrel is warm, hasn't come off. I use one mirage shield between several guns/barrels (I make sure the dots are all installed in a consistent place across guns/barrels), so it gets attached/removed quite often (even in a single 3x20 match, I have to take the shield off after every string to fit my rifle in our club's rifle racks).

Does it really matter which side the hooks are on? It never occurred to me that that might be the case. Why?

 

[nhm16]

What is the best way to attach the shields. I have used Velcro but some barrel heat and my switching barrels often makes a mess. The Velcro tab will not clear the barrel channel and tries to peal off when changing barrels.

I use the Scotch brand dots. Hooks on the barrel, fuzzy on the mirage shield. I press down firmly when the barrel is warm, hasn't come off. I use one mirage shield between several guns/barrels (I make sure the dots are all installed in a consistent place across guns/barrels), so it gets attached/removed quite often (even in a single 3x20 match, I have to take the shield off after every string to fit my rifle in our club's rifle racks).

Does it really matter which side the hooks are on? It never occurred to me that that might be the case. Why?

I just found that in my experience, if I put the hooks on the barrel and the fuzzy on the shield that the dots stay on the barrel/shield, respectively, when I remove the shield from the rifle. When I had the fuzzy dot on the barrel they had a propensity to come off with the shield.

 

[Lesloan]

What is the best way to attach the shields. I have used Velcro but some barrel heat and my switching barrels often makes a mess. The Velcro tab will not clear the barrel channel and tries to peal off when changing barrels.

I use the Scotch brand dots. Hooks on the barrel, fuzzy on the mirage shield. I press down firmly when the barrel is warm, hasn't come off. I use one mirage shield between several guns/barrels (I make sure the dots are all installed in a consistent place across guns/barrels), so it gets attached/removed quite often (even in a single 3x20 match, I have to take the shield off after every string to fit my rifle in our club's rifle racks).

Does it really matter which side the hooks are on? It never occurred to me that that might be the case. Why?

I just found that in my experience, if I put the hooks on the barrel and the fuzzy on the shield that the dots stay on the barrel/shield, respectively, when I remove the shield from the rifle. When I had the fuzzy dot on the barrel they had a propensity to come off with the shield.

Good enuff. Thanks!

 

[jsthntn247]

Where is the best place to find these locally? Has anyone every found them in small pieces without having to buy the entire blind?

 

[BenPerfected]

This is a really nice mirage shield.

FS, Custom Made Carbon Fiber Mirage Shades in 16" to 24" Length and 2" to 3" Wide. These are made to match the 2+2 Twill Carbon Fiber Wrap on Scoville and Scarbrough benchrest stocks or any other manufactures stock. Shades start at $20 + $4.00 Shipping for a LV or HV 16" X 2" up to 22" X 2". For a picture or questions please email me at: thebumperguy@hotmail.com or Call me at 715-551-9735
Mark

 

[M99]

Mine just arrived. They look so cool that they are worth the cost even if they only worked the same as a piece of cardboard. Thanks.