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Miller stability calculator

Using Miller stability calculator
I read stability value should be in the range of 1.3 to 2.0 to ensure bullet stability. I'm a little lost, so a bullet with a value of 3.485 or 8.267 in green chart better or worse?
 
Got a link to whatever green chart you're talking about?
OK still little confuse but 500 S&W MAGNUM cast bullet 440 grain FN, .501 dia, .895 bullet length loaded in hand gun 1:18.75 twist with muzzle vel 1625 fps has a stability of 8.87
Same bullet loaded in my rifle (muzzleloader) 1:28 twist with muzzle vel 1150 fps has a stability of 3.485
Both data output show good stability, states anything over 1.5 is good stability, when is to much spin not good?
 
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Anything 1.5 or higher is in green because it's fully stable at that point.
It's all you need.
Too much twist is bad when bullet integrity is lost because of it.
 
OK still little confuse but 500 S&W MAGNUM cast bullet 440 grain FN, .501 dia, .895 bullet length loaded in hand gun 1:18.75 twist with muzzle vel 1625 fps has a stability of 8.87
Same bullet loaded in my rifle (muzzleloader) 1:28 twist with muzzle vel 1150 fps has a stability of 3.485
Both data output show good stability, states anything over 1.5 is good stability, when is to much spin not good?
Too much spin is not good when the bullet comes apart in flight. Even if it doesn’t come apart, in general the faster you spin it, the more likely an imperfection, like a void in a cast bullet, is likely to show up.

Bullet spin, RPM, is a good thing to check with higher stability numbers.

In general, bigger number is better. But....

There is also a point of diminishing return on spin. The faster a bullet spins, the higher the Stability number, the more likely the bullet is to reach its optimum BC. That number is around 2.0. So the window you are seeing is minimum required, 1.3 and more or less pointless to go past for most shooters, 2.0.

There is another, older formula you might be interested in looking at. Your bullet is closer to the model used for this equation, short, fat and flat based. The Greenhill formula. The Miller is more accurate for boattails.

Greenhill calculates twist required, based on your bullet.

Bullet diameter squared X 150 / bullet length = twist.
.501 X .501= .251
.251 X 150 = 37.65
37.65 / .895 = 42.07

Plug your bullet into JBM, .501”, 440 grains, 1/42 twist, 1200 fps. It spits out 1.509 for a stability factor.

The original 50-70 government rifles used a 1/42 twist, one of my molds is .515”D .950”L, 440 grains. Roughly 1200 fps from a 22” barrel carbine.

Shoots pretty well for a 150 year old rifle, bullets are stable at 300 yards.
At least I think they are. It’s hard to tell on paper when the vertical drop is faster than the forward progress.

I don’t think either of your barrels will over spin your bullets and cause accuracy issues. Your fastest load, in your fastest twist barrel is spitting them out around 65,000 rpm. That’s about half what most people might consider the top end of a good cast bullet.

For what it’s worth, I shoot a lot of cast bullets that are either way too low or high on the stability charts. Within a couple hundred yards, you can have very good results outside of what all the formulas recommend. Stretch it out past 500, and it really can make a difference.

I think that the biggest problem you might have with a big heavy bullet, in a fast twist barrel, might just be the torque generated.
 
Too much spin is a problem with thin jacketed target bullets.

When the RPM is too high, they self-destruct on the way to the target.

RPM is a product of twist and velocity.
 
There is another, older formula you might be interested in looking at. Your bullet is closer to the model used for this equation, short, fat and flat based. The Greenhill formula. The Miller is more accurate for boattails.

Greenhill calculates twist required, based on your bullet.

Bullet diameter squared X 150 / bullet length = twist.
.501 X .501= .251
.251 X 150 = 37.65
37.65 / .895 = 42.07

Plug your bullet into JBM, .501”, 440 grains, 1/42 twist, 1200 fps. It spits out 1.509 for a stability factor.

Quite right! Too many calculators use Miller for everything. Miller's Rules is designed for copper jacket / lead-core boat-tail rifle bullets. I think it's still usable with all-copper equivalents, but wouldn't be certain on that.

It gives inaccurate results with flat-base rifle bullets (understates actual stability) and obviously gives pretty useless results with large calibre all-lead flat-base short-ogive pistol type bullets. As @dellet says, the older Greenhill formula was devised for blunt, short-nose, flat-based 19th century projectiles, of both rifle and field artillery calibre and is much more appropriate for this type of bullet.

Note that in Berger Bullets' Stability Calculator facility

https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/

There is a line in the notes:

Important Note: The Miller Twist Rate Formula isn’t accurate with flat based bullets, so we recommend you view our flat based bullet twist rate chart to identify what the minimum twist rate is for all of our flat based bullets.

The link then takes you to a page where the company's entire range of FBs is listed with recommended twist rates (which are 'slower' than those obtained by using Miller).
 
The geometry of a pistol bullet is totally different than a rifle bullet. The dynamic stability is determined by the the distance between the center of mass and the center of pressure. There are constants in the Miller equation that depend on the shape of the Buller. A typical boat tail bullet might be 3.8 or 3.9 caliber's long but the OP's pistol bullet is only about 1.8 calibers long. This is also why the formula isn't good for the flat based bullets.
 
If you use a bullet drag/twist calculator, instead of the basic stabilization calculators, it works very well. The problem is inputs. Most inputs are based on calibers. Kind of tough to calculate the radius of the ogive in calibers. That’s how the JBM drag calculator works.

Geoffrey Kolbe has one that uses actual measurements so inputs are a bit easier.

And a straight twist calculator that allows you to define bullet shape.


If your’e not defining the shape, you might as well figure a bullet will fly just as good backwards as forwards, the calculator won’t know the difference.

It helps a lot if you shoot flatbase bullets, or rifle bullets that are shaped more
Like a pistol bullet.

It’s helped me a lot anyway.
 

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