Method To Shorten a Hardened Stainless Steel Recoil Lug

[sawacs]

I spoke with Northland Shooters where I got the hardened and trued recoil lug from and he said he would not try using a file or a dremel tool for fear of changing the hardness of the recoil lug.

How should I go about making the lug 1/16" shorter so it will fit the chassis in the stock?

Thanks,

Shawn

 

[Dans40X]

Depending on temper/hardness-
A milling machine
OR
A surface grinder.

Any attempt at free handing the task is...mere...bastardizing.

 

[matthias]

Would milling the stock out not work? Or is the lug the easiest thing ?

 

[sawacs]

I could grind the stock chasis out but I am worried about grinding down through the lug slot. The stock is the HS Precision stock that comes with the bull barreled Savage 12 LRP. Does anyone know how thick the lug area on this stock is?

Thanks, Shawn

 

[Comeback]

I could grind the stock chasis out but I am worried about grinding down through the lug slot. The stock is the Mcmillan stock that comes with the bull barreled Savage 12 LRP. Does anyone know how thick the lug area on this stock is?

Thanks, Shawn

I would also like to know that.
Would be very helpful.

 

[Erik Cortina]

I'm still trying to figure out how you can change the hardness of a recoil lug with a hand file!

 

[Syncrowave]

I'm still trying to figure out how you can change the hardness of a recoil lug with a hand file!

Me too.

I'd be surprised if it's hard enough to deflect a file ... and I think I'd be suspicious if it was that hard (and possibly brittle).

Not sure what your stock setup is, but my first instinct would be to deepen the lug recess in the stock and then bed it with epoxy and leave the lug alone. More bearing surface area on the lug is a good thing, no?

 

[Uthink Uknow]

You'd have to file fast, Erik, really fast. Probably have to change files often, too. Is there a reason why you can't send the lug back and get a trade in if you don't or can't mill this one?

 

[jrm850]

Grind it or file it in my opinion. Dunk it in water to cool when it gets warm to your fingers. I can just about guarantee that it will stay less than 475 or so an 8th inch from the grind. It won't look pretty, but I can't see it making any difference on the paper.
Again, just my opinion based on a decent amount of experience making gun springs.

 

[savagedasher]

Water jet, plasma cutter., wet grinder. But first I would check the stock. Larry

 

[hogpatrol]

File? : I'm surprised they didn't recommend a hacksaw with a carbide blade. :'(

Serously though, what was stated earlier, a surface grinder or a milling machine with a carbide end mill.

 

[carlsbad]

Heat treated and hardened are two different things. I really doubt the lug is hard enough you can't mill it with HSS. If you can file it, you can mill it.

My guess is he doesn't recommend a file or dremmel tool because he doesn't think you should spend 4 hours shortening a lug.

I just shortened a holland lug last weekend. I milled it slowly and didn't heat it up but not because I was worried about affecting the heat treat.

A grinder could heat it up and affect the heat treat.

--Jerry

 

[akajun]

Might be case hardened, which could still be shortened with a carbide end mill, but not a file.

 

[jrm850]

I'm assuming you don't have access to a milling machine and don't want to spend more fixing a lug than the lug cost.

The website says they are heat treated to 40C. If it is 416 stainless or 4140 keep it under 600F and you will be fine as far as the heat treat goes. Straw color is about 475. I promise that if you are holding it with your bare hand you won't be able to hold on to it hot enough and long enough to change the heat treat more than a fraction of an inch from where it touches the grinder.
A file will cut it fairly easily at 40c and make a much prettier job than a grinder with zero worries about affecting the heat treat. Chalk your file to cut down on the pinning.

 

[boltfluter]

Test

 

[ridgeway]

If you have a small belt sander combo with a round disk and table, just grind it. The table will help keep it pretty square and cool. Regardless, grinding it by hand won't mess with the heat treat. You have to get pretty darn hot to anneal it. HSS tooling is ground by hand all the time without softening it. If you can't hold it, let it cool, lol.

 

[BoydAllen]

Use Dykem to lay out your cut, grind it close with a bench grinder, holding it in your hand, and dunking it in water often as you go, then finish with a file. If you have a mill, this should be duck soup with the right cutter. I doubt that it is that hard. You can do a rough test with a file.

 

[sawacs]

Thanks for all of the information!

I do need to make one correction.. Filing was not recommended due to the inability to file the metal not due to changing the hardness of the metal. That was an error on my part: woops!

I am going to try and grind the lug channel down on the stock first.

Update: I just spoke with HS Precision regarding grinding and lowering the recoil lug channel. They recommended I do not take any metal out of the lug area as I would more than likely go through the aluminum chassis..Doh! Their recommendation was to tape off a 1/16" line around the lug and use a belt sander. If things begin to heat up, I'll drop it in some water from time to time. Besides, recoil lugs are not overly expensive.

Cheers,

Shawn

 

[BoydAllen]

Have you tried to file it?

 

[dalewoolumjr.]

Just my opinion but modify the inexpensive part.

Dale